science universe

Dressing for Success

In This Chapter

▶ Making your style work with your office dress code

▶ Looking great at off-site work events

▶ Packing for a business trip

Even though I consider myself a put-together person, whenever I do a segment on television, I am even more aware of what I look like and what I’m wearing. Of course, the content and the information I provide to viewers is the most important thing, but what I look like is also important. If I look disheveled, how on earth are viewers (including you, hopefully!) going to be able to concentrate, let alone trust, what I say? The same holds true in any profession. People who look put together give the impression that they have things under control and know what they’re doing.

When you look put together, your overall confidence improves, and that in turn helps you be more successful at work. Makes perfect sense, right? A recent survey conducted by careerbuilder.com offers support: Of the employers surveyed, 41 per- cent said they tend to promote people who dress professionally. In this chapter, I discuss not only hemlines, but also how to help your bottom line.

Deciphering Office Dress Codes

You can wear various types of clothing in a business environment, but the key to climbing the ladder of success is understanding which style in your place of business makes that climb go smoothly and quickly. The following sections outline the different categories for business dress.

Business casual

With business casual, you have the freedom to be a little more stylish and a lot less conservative. Instead of the traditional business suits, you can wear pants, blouses, skirts, and dresses. These selections make business casual more comfortable and give you the opportunity to inject some more of your personal style.

If you’re the slightest bit confused about what to wear as far as business casual, take a cue from the men in your office. If they’re wearing khakis and polo shirts, you can use that as the standard, even though you don’t want to wear exactly that. Your goal is to distinguish yourself in a way that makes you look both stylish and feminine. So instead of khakis, try sharp wool gabardine slacks or a pair of linen pants, and instead of a polo shirt, put on something more fitted that shows your curves without revealing any extra skin. Of course, if you do decide to wear khakis and a polo shirt (a preppy look), make sure the fit on each is a 10: The shirt should be fitted and in a feminine color (pink or another soft pastel), and the khakis can be capri length to show off your legs. Don’t forget a great pair of shoes (ballet flats are always chic yet comfortable). Figure 10-1 shows how a pair of khaki pants and ballet flats can be a stylish yet comfortable outfit for work.

Dealing with some of the challenges

Business casual may be one of the most common forms of dress these days, but with no exact definition, getting dressed in the morning can be complicated. When you just had to choose from one of the five suits you owned, the limitation made choosing your outfit

Figure 10-1: Business casual: Put together and comfortable.

for the day a lot easier (shopping was a lot easier, too). Now that you have a lot more options (pants, blouses, skirts, and more), the selection process

can be tricky. Following are some tips to help you adapt your business casual wardrobe when the need (or desire) arises:

✓ Keep a few items in your office to throw on when you need to. These items include a cardigan of neutral color and/or a scarf. Suppose you wear something to the office that’s a little on the edgier side and you have a meeting with a client late in the day and need to tone it down.

You can throw on the sweater or tie the scarf around your neck for a more conservative look.

Keep a perfect pair of black pumps and a perfect pair of black flats at work, too. You’ll be glad you have the flats if your feet are killing you, and if last minute plans come up, you can dress up your outfit with the black heels.

✓ Even if your place of work doesn’t require you to dress formally, show up decked out from time to time. You’ll feel great when people say “Wow, you look nice today!” It also helps people see you in a different light, which never hurts. And when people ask why the change (which you know some inevitably will), just say with confidence, “I felt like getting dressed up today.”

✓ You can be playful, but make sure it doesn’t turn from playful to too sexy. If you’re wearing a tight skirt that rides up when you sit and you’re in a business meeting, part of you will constantly worry about how much of your legs are showing instead of the subject matter being discussed. While you’re tugging at your skirt, you could be missing an impor-

Figure 10-2: Adding flair to business casual.

tant point, and others in the room may notice that you’re distracted. Plus any type of fidgeting often can be misinterpreted as anxiety or lack of preparedness. Why chance it?

Accessorizing to add flair

Aside from wearing more comfortable clothing, business casual dress is an opportunity to wear clothes with more flair. A scarf, earrings, and a nice pair of sandals can totally transform your work look (see Figure 10-2).

Accessories can be a quick fix when trying to make an outfit pop. If you’re wearing a simple outfit, you can use statement jewelry to express your per- sonal style. A chunky necklace or chandelier earrings can dress up any outfit, but don’t wear both — choose one or the other! Also don’t underestimate the power of a belt. An outfit that is simple or even a little roomy around the mid- section can be totally transformed with a great belt. Play around with it. If you do go the belt route, make sure you don’t over accessorize. Earrings or a bracelet (or even a small necklace) is fine. But just one is likely enough!

Casual

From business casual we move to simply casual. The distinction between the two is slight, but important: Business casual doesn’t incorporate jeans; casual can bring denim into the mix.

How casual you can go depends on the attitude of the office environment and the industry in which you work. In the fashion industry, a lot of the fash- ion PR companies tell their girls to dress casually. They want stylists to feel comfortable and relaxed when they walk in, so I often see women in jeans and funky tops, like the one shown in Figure 10-3. When I walk into a more corporate office environ- ment, the look and feel is a little more formal and conservative.

In casual work situations, jeans have become the go-to item. Obviously, jeans come in countless varieties. Some jeans scream casual; others can be chic and appropriate. A beautiful pair of nicely fitted, dark denim jeans are always appropriate in a casual work situation. Try them with a sophisticated blouse or sweater set for the office. Faded jeans with holes in the knees, on the other hand, are an entirely different story. Save those for the weekend.

If you dress casually every day, invest in a few great pairs of jeans and quality blouses and sweater sets. With these basics in your closet, you can make jeans fashionable yet appropriate for work. A fabulous sweater with a great scarf or a statement belt (or even a bold cocktail ring)

paired with jeans not only makes you stand out in

Figure 10-3: Done right, casual attire can be quite stylish.

the office, but it can also take you from day to night in a flash. Furthermore, if you’re wearing jeans and casual clothing to work, make sure you have a few great pairs of heels and at least one fabulous work tote. These items help pull an outfit together and make you look “done.”

Going casual without overstepping the bounds Casual clothing can be very tricky for women, especially during hot weather. Baring too much skin can become too sexy and provocative, which can create problems that can affect your work and work environment.

Are shorts ever okay? That’s a tough question. The easiest answer is a simple no, but there may be times when shorts are okay. First, never wear shorts to work unless you work in a very (and I mean very) casual environment. Second, if you’re going to break this rule, wear a pair of tailored shorts that hit right above the knee and pair it with a sweater set or blouse (see Figure 10-4).

Because shorts tend to be a very casual look, you can wear them with ballet flats or flat sandals, or, if you want to take it up a notch, you can wear them with heels.

Most firms that allow casual clothing do have some restrictions. Even if the policy is “anything goes,” you must remember to always dress appropriately. Take cues from your co-workers. Often your super- visor sets the tone. See what the appropriate level of dress is in your office, and add your personal flair to those clothes. For general expectations about any work attire, head to the later section “Universal rules for all kinds of business dress.” It’s always better to be a little overdressed than under- dressed. You can never go wrong if you follow this advice. In fact, people will end up looking to you to set the standard.

 

Figure 10-4: Long, tailored shorts paired with a blouse and heels can be casual yet chic.

Business conservative

Conservative business attire for women is a variation on the suit and tie requirement for men. You may wonder whether pant suits are as acceptable as suits with skirts. The answer is yes. A suit in almost any color (I would stay away from white in a work setting) paired with a blouse, camisole, or shell always looks professional and put together.

Be sure to put your own style into this look. If you love jewelry, try adding a bold necklace or earrings. Make sure your necklace lays properly and falls in the right place and doesn’t compete with the neckline of your top or suit jacket. And keep the earrings on the smaller side or just wear studs (you don’t want your earrings to make you look like you’re going out for a night on the town).

Getting that polished look

Business formal for the woman who wants to look fashionable means being both professional and polished. To accomplish that, do the following:

✓ Buy nicer quality suits. You may not want to spend a fortune on the suits you wear to the office, but you do spend a huge portion of your time at work and in those suits. For that reason, spending a little more money to feel and look great is a good investment.

✓ Stick with suits in darker colors. You can tell more easily the quality of the material when the color is lighter. So if you’re buying a suit that’s not of the highest quality, it will be less noticeable in a darker color, which is why most people default to buying black.

✓ Make sure that whatever you wear fits properly. If you need to, spend a little more to get your suits altered.

✓ Keep your suits in great condition. Dry-clean them whenever necessary (do both jacket and pants or skirt together to keep the colors on both pieces looking the same) and possibly invest in a home steamer for last minute touch ups. You don’t have to dry-clean every time you wear a suit. I recommend just steaming it for the second wearing. Depending on how grueling your work days are, you can usually get away with wearing a suit two to three times before dry-cleaning it.

✓ Make sure that every item you wear complements the other items. Haphazardly throwing together your bag, blouse, and shoes projects an overall look of disorganization. Everything you wear from your coat to your scarf to your shoes, must (in some way) work together.

✓ Make sure your coat and briefcase (or work bag or tote) are as polished and refined as you are. What you look like when you enter and leave the building can leave a lasting impression. Nothing is worse than a fabulous woman in a great suit with the wrong outerwear. It’s like a great present with the wrong wrapping.

Being prepared for emergencies

To keep up your polished appearance, be prepared for emergencies because accidents do happen. If your hose or tights catch on your desk and rip, make sure you have another pair on hand so that you can dash to the ladies room before that big meeting. (Nail polish or hairspray also prevents a run from spreading.) And because winter time means static, keep static guard handy in case your skirt clings to your legs. A lint remover is another handy thing to have close by. For clothing rips, a piece of tape on the inside can keep you going for the rest of the day.

A convenient and relatively inexpensive way to be ready for any accident is to buy a Shemergency Survival Kit (see Figure 10-5). It holds mini-versions of everything you need in the event of a fashion emergency: folding hairbrush, hair spray, emery board, nail clipper, nail polish, nail polish remover, static remover, breath freshener, safety pin, shoe shine wipes, dental floss, pain reliever, double-sided tape, deodorant wipes, tampon, adhesive bandages, facial tissues. Can you believe it — all these items fit into this hand size pouch and the whole thing costs only $20! You can find one at www.msandmrs.com.

^{©Georgette Kaplan, Shemergency Survival Kit™ by Ms. & Mrs.}

Figure 10-5: The Shemergency Survival Kit.

Letting your style stand out

Even if the attire is more formal at your place of work, you can still dress appropriately while expressing your personal style. To dress up a suit, a sweater set, or a simple blouse and look sharp and stylish while still maintaining a more formal look, use the following suggestions:

✓ Wear statement jewelry: Statement jewelry is a great way to make a simple suit stand out (and it can also work as a talking point). If you wear a bold necklace, bracelet, ring, or earrings, someone is likely to say, “I love that! Where did you get it?” This may strike up a conversation with a co-worker you’ve never had interaction with before. It may sound silly, but that’s how relationships start sometimes!

✓ Wear something other than pumps, if allowed. If you’re in a conservative environment, pumps are definitely the safe way to go, but if you have some leeway, sandals are a great way to express your style. If you’re required to wear hose, wear a closed-toe shoe, no matter the season. Look to the women in higher positions to see what’s accept- able in terms of shoes and hosiery. (For more on these topics, head to Chapters 14 and 16.)

✓ Have fun with your hair. Changing your hairstyle every so often can give you a new look without having to go out and buy a new wardrobe. Just always make sure your style looks clean and neat.

If your hair covers your face or your bangs get in your eyes, your hair will be seen as an encumbrance to working most effectively. Need a stylish solution? Put your hair back in a sleek low ponytail or loose bun (see Figure 10-6).

Figure 10-6: Two perfectly acceptable hairstyles in any office setting.

You always want to feel and look your best, but remember to keep your audience in mind. Your goal is to wear what you’re comfortable in and also make the person or people you’re meeting with feel like you’re on the same page. In a work situation, you want to make the people you’re meeting with feel confident in your abilities. The way you look has a huge impact on how they perceive you before you even say a word. So if you’re meeting someone who’s on the more conservative side, dress more conservatively. If you’re meeting with someone you know is on the trendier side, grab that trendy bag (or pair of shoes) you’ve been dying to wear.

Universal rules for all kinds of business dress

Understanding exactly what a business’s dress code is (and consistency in enforcing such a code) would certainly take some of the guessing out of what to wear to work. But some types of dress don’t fly in most offices. In the same careerbuilder.com survey, 64 percent of employers said they banned flip- flops, 49 percent said no to miniskirts, and 28 percent didn’t allow jeans.

Whether dress code rules are written down in your office or not, certain guidelines are pretty universal:

✓ Whatever you wear to work, make sure it’s neat. No wrinkles or tears. If you have a pair of capri pants, but you’re not sure they’re appropriate, try ironing them. Being crisp and neat may put them over the edge from unacceptable to acceptable.

✓ If one part of your outfit may be pushing the envelope, pair it with something conservative. A sleeveless blouse, for example, can be acceptable when you wear it with a conservative skirt.

✓ Stay away from showing too much cleavage or wearing something too revealing. Tops made of translucent or wispy material are inappropriate, unless you wear a tank or camisole underneath it. And if you find yourself wondering, “Is this too much cleavage?” it’s too much. While showing cleavage can be sexy and appropriate in the evening, it’s unnecessary and distracting in the office. Worse, it can undermine the impression of professionalism you want to exude. That doesn’t mean you can’t wear a blouse with buttons or a V-neck, just err on the side of more conservative in the office.

Dressing for Off-site Work Events

Some people travel all the time — the road warriors — while others rarely leave the office. If you’re going on a quick jaunt that doesn’t require an over- night stay, your challenge is to try to keep your clothes looking fresh after you’ve been on the road for a few hours. On longer trips, you have a variety of challenges, like what to wear on the plane, what’s appropriate attire for the various activities and venues you may be at, and how to pack everything you need.

Looking stylish en route

You may be tempted to wear just any old thing on the plane (or bus or train) and change at the hotel, but I advise against it. First, lost luggage or a delayed flight can end up causing a problem. Second, you should always look your best while flying because you never know who you may meet (yes, I know I sound like your mother). The trick for dressing for the flight is to find clothing that is stylish, comfortable, and resistant to wrinkles. Some materials that fit the bill are

✓ Wool and silk: These fibers (refer to Chapter 4) have natural elasticity, which helps keep them from wrinkling.

✓ Synthetic fabrics: Fabrics such as nylon and polyester are less prone to wrinkling.

✓ Fabrics that use finishing agents designed to reduce wrinkles: Textile manufacturers began to add finishing agents to their cloths that change

the chemical structure in such a way as to make fabrics that once wrinkled easily, like cotton, wrinkle free. When purchasing garments for travel, look for pieces that say they’re wrinkle resistant and still 100 percent cotton. Some wrinkle resistant garments aren’t all cotton, but cotton polyester blends.

✓ Knits: Knits wrinkle much less than woven fabrics, so anything that’s a cable, ribbed, tricot, or jersey knit will remain wrinkle free. If you rollknit s instead of folding them when you pack, they come out of your suit- case wrinkle and fold free.

The Donna M clothing line (www.bbydonnam.com) sells something called the 5 Piece Wardrobe (see Figure 10-7). Most of the items are under $100, and you can mix and match them hundreds of different ways. The pieces are comfort- able, don’t wrinkle, and will take you from day to night in a flash. I wear them whenever I fly.

b® by donna.m — www.bByDonnaM.com

Figure 10-7: The Donna M 5 Piece Wardrobe is perfect for travel

Wrinkles can get you coming and going. So pay attention to how you look from the rear as well as the front. If your pants are creased in the back or the label on your blouse is sticking up, you may make a good first impression but a lousy parting one. So check both the front and back in a mirror before you head to that meeting.

Daytime casual

Daytime casual varies from industry to industry and from state to state. What you may wear to a luncheon in New York among people in finance is different from what you’d wear to a meeting in Los Angeles with people in the film industry. Most businesses have their own definitions of daytime casual. Unless you’ve been to a particular event or a place many times before, play it safe and slightly overdress. Better to feel a little uncomfortable because you’re slightly overdressed than to feel very uncomfortable because you’re underdressed.

One way to handle this type of dilemma is to dress in layers or use versatile accessories. If you’re wearing a jacket and no one else is, simply take the jacket off and you’ll fit right in. A silk scarf worn around your neck can make an outfit seem more formal. If it makes you seem too formal, you can simply take it off.

When you’re away from the office, sharing a meal with your colleagues is very common. If you know ahead of time where you’re dining, check out the restaurant’s Web site to get an idea of how formal or casual it is. That way, you’re prepared for each scenario.

If you travel for business, you’ll probably try to pack as few clothes as possible so that you don’t have to check your luggage. Convenient, yes, but it means you won’t have a spare blouse or skirt to change into if the one you’re wearing gets stained. Some materials are more stain resistant than others, and for those pieces that need more protection, you can use Scotchgard. Taking such garments on trips can be a good form of stain insurance. A quick and easy alternative, though, is to use a Tide Stain Stick, which removes stains on the spot. (I use my stain stick all the time!) Simply take off the cap and press down on the tip to release the stain fighter directly onto the stain. (Use cau- tion depending on the material and item you’re wearing.)

Daytime conservative

Some business trips or events require you to get dressed up. Perhaps you’re a lawyer going to court or pitching a new business to a firm. For men, the decision of what to wear is fairly easy because the key word is conservative. For women, dressing conservatively is a bit more vague. While dressing more conservatively used to mean wearing a skirt rather than pants, that’s no longer the case.

A suit (pants or skirt) always works well. Alternatively, a pencil skirt paired with a blouse or sweater set and accessories works in almost any setting. What about a dress instead of a suit? Yes, as long as it’s a simple dress (especially with a blazer over it) — no cocktail or sexy dresses! It doesn’t need to be black, but it should be conservative in color; a conservative print is fine, too. Even a sleeveless dress that hits below the knee is perfectly okay.

Each situation is different, but the old way of thinking — that a woman must wear a suit for a presentation or big meeting — is antiquated. The key is to know your audience. And if you don’t, you’re better off being as conservative as possible. No one will fault you for being too conservative, but if you’re not conservative enough, someone may immediately judge you as a person who doesn’t “get it”— a group you never want to be in!

Feeling confident is so important, and finding the right mix between dressing appropriately and dressing with confidence is the ultimate goal in any situation. Even if you have to dress conservatively, it’s sometimes fun (and appropriate) to switch it up. So pack a colorful scarf and some dangly earrings, and if it seems like you can get away with standing out a bit, go for it.

Evening casual

It’s always good to feel like you’re wearing the right thing from the second you walk in, but evening casual gets a little tricky. A cocktail party could be at the fanciest hotel in town or a pub down the block. A trip to a ballgame could be in the stands or in a company box with a waiter in a tux. Following are some suggestions:

✓ The little black dress (LBD): You can rarely go wrong with the LBD (see Chapter 7) and a pair of perfect pumps. It’s the perfect solution if you know you’re going out after work straight away. To work, wear the dress with a blazer, pumps, and work tote; for evening, simply take off the blazer, switch out your shoes and bag, and add some dressy jewelry (see Figure 10-8).

✓ Statement jewelry: Adding bold jewelry is a great way to make your outfit more exciting.

✓ A suit with something pretty underneath: An outfit like this takes you from day to night and is the perfect solution if you know you’re going out after work straight away. If you wear a pant suit with a pretty blouse or tank underneath, you can go from your business meeting to a cocktail party simply by removing the jacket.

Figure 10-8: With the right basics, you can easily go from work wear to social wear.

Of course the final decision about what to wear depends on the activity involved. Dinner at a barbeque restaurant obviously rules out your LBD. There is nothing wrong (by the way) in saying to a co-worker you trust, “What are you wearing tonight?”

Evening fancy

A business black-tie affair is not a wedding or a party with friends, where you may want to show off your fabulous back or beautiful cleavage. Leave that look for your next big social

event. At a business event, even one where you need to dress to the nines, keep your outfit stylish but work-appropriate at the same time (see Figure 10-9). Following are some guidelines:

✓ Don’t wear anything too revealing. “Too revealing” is anything that implies sexy, especially when it comes to cleavage, though in some situations, you also want to make sure your upper arms and back are covered, too. If you decide to wear something that you have in your closet already but that may be too revealing on top, a wrap is always a great solution. It covers you up a bit while maintaining a pulled together and, depending on the wrap, dressy look. Many kinds of wraps are available, some with beading, that are perfect for evening wear.

✓ Choose an outfit that’s relatively easy to put on. You may not have a lot of time to change. If you have business meetings during the day, the meeting may run longer than expected. If you don’t have a female associate with you to zip you up, you’d better wear something that you can get in and out of on your own.

 

Figure 10-9: An outfit that’s elegant without being too sexy.

✓ Make sure whatever you take looks great once it comes out of your suitcase. A great trick to get rid of wrinkles is to turn your shower on hot and close the bathroom door. The steam from the shower helps take out any wrinkles and generally freshens up your outfit.

Your gown should be modest but it doesn’t have to be dowdy. Take advantage of embellishments like beading, embroidery, rhinestones, velvet, and metallic pieces to give your look some sparkle. Make sure that you have a matching evening clutch because, again, everything should be fabulous like you. Buying a great silver or gold clutch to keep in your wardrobe is always a good idea as it can work with many different outfits.

All these warnings don’t mean that when you go out with co-workers, you can’t show a different side of yourself. Business black-tie affairs are prime opportunities to let co-workers see glimpses of what you’re like outside of the office (which is often interesting and fun). But you have to walk a fine line. If you have any question about whether something will work, don’t wear it. It’s better not to test the water until you know for sure.

If you don’t have a great work-appropriate formal dress and you’re just finding your personal style, a black cocktail dress is always a safe bet and works well for many occasions. Choose one with a conservative neckline that doesn’t show cleavage. Some good options include a basic round neck, a square neck, or a boat neck (Chapter 9 describes the different kinds of necklines). Sleeveless can work if you pair it with a shawl or shrug that you can remove if appropriate.

Packing for a Business Trip

When you pack for a vacation or a weekend getaway, you usually have the luxury of packing more than you need. If you can’t decide between the strappy sandals and sparkly sling-backs, you can pack both and decide later. Packing for a business trip is an entirely different thing. Your goal is to pack the most functional clothing into the least amount of space because if you can avoid having to check your luggage, all the better.

You’ve seen the road warriors. They travel differently than everybody else. First, they’re usually carrying around a lot of electronic equipment, heaviest of all being their laptop computer and battery pack. Second, they almost never check their luggage (see Figure 10-10). They manage to fit everything into a carry-on.

Yes, packing everything you need into one case is a challenge, but it’s a must for an overnight trip. And it’s completely doable. Here’s how:

✓ Wear the clothing that’s going to take up the most room in your luggage. If a blazer is required, wear it on board. You can probably hang it up once you’re on the plane. If you’re flying from a warm climate to a colder one, wear your overcoat and stick it in the overhead compartment when you get on the plane. If you absolutely need two pairs of shoes, wear the one that would take up the most luggage space (which are hopefully the ones that are more comfortable).

✓ Roll, rather than fold, your

clothing. As I said earlier, knits make great travel clothes because they can be rolled up without wrinkling. In fact, any type of clothing generally accumulates less wrinkles when rolled. Clothes made with spandex or polyester blends throw off wrinkles no matter how you pack them. (These fabrics are good not only for packing, but also for sitting in long meetings.)

Figure 10-10: Ready for a business trip.

✓ Make sure everything you take can be mixed and matched. If you’re going for two days, you need to pack only one and a half outfits rather than two. Black is an especially good color to wear because it doesn’t show any stains that may splash your way.

✓ Choose things that you can wear multiple times. If you have a pair of straight-legged black pants and a black pencil skirt (which has less fabric so packs easier) and a pair of black pumps, all you need are a couple of monochromatic tops and you can go for quite a few days that way.

✓ Choose lighter rather than heavier clothing. Because it may be cold on the plane and many airlines no longer give blankets, a cardigan is a good idea because it can also substitute for a jacket. Instead of bringing jeans to lounge in your room (if you don’t plan to wear them when you’re not working), take along a pair of lightweight sweat pants instead. They take up less space.

Though more companies are cutting their travel budgets these days, busi- ness travelers will never completely disappear. If you find yourself one of them, don’t allow being on the road make you any less fashionable.

Dressing for Success

In This Chapter

▶ Making your style work with your office dress code

▶ Looking great at off-site work events

▶ Packing for a business trip

Even though I consider myself a put-together person, whenever I do a segment on television, I am even more aware of what I look like and what I’m wearing. Of course, the content and the information I provide to viewers is the most important thing, but what I look like is also important. If I look disheveled, how on earth are viewers (including you, hopefully!) going to be able to concentrate, let alone trust, what I say? The same holds true in any profession. People who look put together give the impression that they have things under control and know what they’re doing.

When you look put together, your overall confidence improves, and that in turn helps you be more successful at work. Makes perfect sense, right? A recent survey conducted by careerbuilder.com offers support: Of the employers surveyed, 41 per- cent said they tend to promote people who dress professionally. In this chapter, I discuss not only hemlines, but also how to help your bottom line.

Deciphering Office Dress Codes

You can wear various types of clothing in a business environment, but the key to climbing the ladder of success is understanding which style in your place of business makes that climb go smoothly and quickly. The following sections outline the different categories for business dress.

Business casual

With business casual, you have the freedom to be a little more stylish and a lot less conservative. Instead of the traditional business suits, you can wear pants, blouses, skirts, and dresses. These selections make business casual more comfortable and give you the opportunity to inject some more of your personal style.

If you’re the slightest bit confused about what to wear as far as business casual, take a cue from the men in your office. If they’re wearing khakis and polo shirts, you can use that as the standard, even though you don’t want to wear exactly that. Your goal is to distinguish yourself in a way that makes you look both stylish and feminine. So instead of khakis, try sharp wool gabardine slacks or a pair of linen pants, and instead of a polo shirt, put on something more fitted that shows your curves without revealing any extra skin. Of course, if you do decide to wear khakis and a polo shirt (a preppy look), make sure the fit on each is a 10: The shirt should be fitted and in a feminine color (pink or another soft pastel), and the khakis can be capri length to show off your legs. Don’t forget a great pair of shoes (ballet flats are always chic yet comfortable). Figure 10-1 shows how a pair of khaki pants and ballet flats can be a stylish yet comfortable outfit for work.

Dealing with some of the challenges

Business casual may be one of the most common forms of dress these days, but with no exact definition, getting dressed in the morning can be complicated. When you just had to choose from one of the five suits you owned, the limitation made choosing your outfit

Figure 10-1: Business casual: Put together and comfortable.

for the day a lot easier (shopping was a lot easier, too). Now that you have a lot more options (pants, blouses, skirts, and more), the selection process

can be tricky. Following are some tips to help you adapt your business casual wardrobe when the need (or desire) arises:

✓ Keep a few items in your office to throw on when you need to. These items include a cardigan of neutral color and/or a scarf. Suppose you wear something to the office that’s a little on the edgier side and you have a meeting with a client late in the day and need to tone it down.

You can throw on the sweater or tie the scarf around your neck for a more conservative look.

Keep a perfect pair of black pumps and a perfect pair of black flats at work, too. You’ll be glad you have the flats if your feet are killing you, and if last minute plans come up, you can dress up your outfit with the black heels.

✓ Even if your place of work doesn’t require you to dress formally, show up decked out from time to time. You’ll feel great when people say “Wow, you look nice today!” It also helps people see you in a different light, which never hurts. And when people ask why the change (which you know some inevitably will), just say with confidence, “I felt like getting dressed up today.”

✓ You can be playful, but make sure it doesn’t turn from playful to too sexy. If you’re wearing a tight skirt that rides up when you sit and you’re in a business meeting, part of you will constantly worry about how much of your legs are showing instead of the subject matter being discussed. While you’re tugging at your skirt, you could be missing an impor-

Figure 10-2: Adding flair to business casual.

tant point, and others in the room may notice that you’re distracted. Plus any type of fidgeting often can be misinterpreted as anxiety or lack of preparedness. Why chance it?

Accessorizing to add flair

Aside from wearing more comfortable clothing, business casual dress is an opportunity to wear clothes with more flair. A scarf, earrings, and a nice pair of sandals can totally transform your work look (see Figure 10-2).

Accessories can be a quick fix when trying to make an outfit pop. If you’re wearing a simple outfit, you can use statement jewelry to express your per- sonal style. A chunky necklace or chandelier earrings can dress up any outfit, but don’t wear both — choose one or the other! Also don’t underestimate the power of a belt. An outfit that is simple or even a little roomy around the mid- section can be totally transformed with a great belt. Play around with it. If you do go the belt route, make sure you don’t over accessorize. Earrings or a bracelet (or even a small necklace) is fine. But just one is likely enough!

Casual

From business casual we move to simply casual. The distinction between the two is slight, but important: Business casual doesn’t incorporate jeans; casual can bring denim into the mix.

How casual you can go depends on the attitude of the office environment and the industry in which you work. In the fashion industry, a lot of the fash- ion PR companies tell their girls to dress casually. They want stylists to feel comfortable and relaxed when they walk in, so I often see women in jeans and funky tops, like the one shown in Figure 10-3. When I walk into a more corporate office environ- ment, the look and feel is a little more formal and conservative.

In casual work situations, jeans have become the go-to item. Obviously, jeans come in countless varieties. Some jeans scream casual; others can be chic and appropriate. A beautiful pair of nicely fitted, dark denim jeans are always appropriate in a casual work situation. Try them with a sophisticated blouse or sweater set for the office. Faded jeans with holes in the knees, on the other hand, are an entirely different story. Save those for the weekend.

If you dress casually every day, invest in a few great pairs of jeans and quality blouses and sweater sets. With these basics in your closet, you can make jeans fashionable yet appropriate for work. A fabulous sweater with a great scarf or a statement belt (or even a bold cocktail ring)

paired with jeans not only makes you stand out in

Figure 10-3: Done right, casual attire can be quite stylish.

the office, but it can also take you from day to night in a flash. Furthermore, if you’re wearing jeans and casual clothing to work, make sure you have a few great pairs of heels and at least one fabulous work tote. These items help pull an outfit together and make you look “done.”

Going casual without overstepping the bounds Casual clothing can be very tricky for women, especially during hot weather. Baring too much skin can become too sexy and provocative, which can create problems that can affect your work and work environment.

Are shorts ever okay? That’s a tough question. The easiest answer is a simple no, but there may be times when shorts are okay. First, never wear shorts to work unless you work in a very (and I mean very) casual environment. Second, if you’re going to break this rule, wear a pair of tailored shorts that hit right above the knee and pair it with a sweater set or blouse (see Figure 10-4).

Because shorts tend to be a very casual look, you can wear them with ballet flats or flat sandals, or, if you want to take it up a notch, you can wear them with heels.

Most firms that allow casual clothing do have some restrictions. Even if the policy is “anything goes,” you must remember to always dress appropriately. Take cues from your co-workers. Often your super- visor sets the tone. See what the appropriate level of dress is in your office, and add your personal flair to those clothes. For general expectations about any work attire, head to the later section “Universal rules for all kinds of business dress.” It’s always better to be a little overdressed than under- dressed. You can never go wrong if you follow this advice. In fact, people will end up looking to you to set the standard.

 

Figure 10-4: Long, tailored shorts paired with a blouse and heels can be casual yet chic.

Business conservative

Conservative business attire for women is a variation on the suit and tie requirement for men. You may wonder whether pant suits are as acceptable as suits with skirts. The answer is yes. A suit in almost any color (I would stay away from white in a work setting) paired with a blouse, camisole, or shell always looks professional and put together.

Be sure to put your own style into this look. If you love jewelry, try adding a bold necklace or earrings. Make sure your necklace lays properly and falls in the right place and doesn’t compete with the neckline of your top or suit jacket. And keep the earrings on the smaller side or just wear studs (you don’t want your earrings to make you look like you’re going out for a night on the town).

Getting that polished look

Business formal for the woman who wants to look fashionable means being both professional and polished. To accomplish that, do the following:

✓ Buy nicer quality suits. You may not want to spend a fortune on the suits you wear to the office, but you do spend a huge portion of your time at work and in those suits. For that reason, spending a little more money to feel and look great is a good investment.

✓ Stick with suits in darker colors. You can tell more easily the quality of the material when the color is lighter. So if you’re buying a suit that’s not of the highest quality, it will be less noticeable in a darker color, which is why most people default to buying black.

✓ Make sure that whatever you wear fits properly. If you need to, spend a little more to get your suits altered.

✓ Keep your suits in great condition. Dry-clean them whenever necessary (do both jacket and pants or skirt together to keep the colors on both pieces looking the same) and possibly invest in a home steamer for last minute touch ups. You don’t have to dry-clean every time you wear a suit. I recommend just steaming it for the second wearing. Depending on how grueling your work days are, you can usually get away with wearing a suit two to three times before dry-cleaning it.

✓ Make sure that every item you wear complements the other items. Haphazardly throwing together your bag, blouse, and shoes projects an overall look of disorganization. Everything you wear from your coat to your scarf to your shoes, must (in some way) work together.

✓ Make sure your coat and briefcase (or work bag or tote) are as polished and refined as you are. What you look like when you enter and leave the building can leave a lasting impression. Nothing is worse than a fabulous woman in a great suit with the wrong outerwear. It’s like a great present with the wrong wrapping.

Being prepared for emergencies

To keep up your polished appearance, be prepared for emergencies because accidents do happen. If your hose or tights catch on your desk and rip, make sure you have another pair on hand so that you can dash to the ladies room before that big meeting. (Nail polish or hairspray also prevents a run from spreading.) And because winter time means static, keep static guard handy in case your skirt clings to your legs. A lint remover is another handy thing to have close by. For clothing rips, a piece of tape on the inside can keep you going for the rest of the day.

A convenient and relatively inexpensive way to be ready for any accident is to buy a Shemergency Survival Kit (see Figure 10-5). It holds mini-versions of everything you need in the event of a fashion emergency: folding hairbrush, hair spray, emery board, nail clipper, nail polish, nail polish remover, static remover, breath freshener, safety pin, shoe shine wipes, dental floss, pain reliever, double-sided tape, deodorant wipes, tampon, adhesive bandages, facial tissues. Can you believe it — all these items fit into this hand size pouch and the whole thing costs only $20! You can find one at www.msandmrs.com.

^{©Georgette Kaplan, Shemergency Survival Kit™ by Ms. & Mrs.}

Figure 10-5: The Shemergency Survival Kit.

Letting your style stand out

Even if the attire is more formal at your place of work, you can still dress appropriately while expressing your personal style. To dress up a suit, a sweater set, or a simple blouse and look sharp and stylish while still maintaining a more formal look, use the following suggestions:

✓ Wear statement jewelry: Statement jewelry is a great way to make a simple suit stand out (and it can also work as a talking point). If you wear a bold necklace, bracelet, ring, or earrings, someone is likely to say, “I love that! Where did you get it?” This may strike up a conversation with a co-worker you’ve never had interaction with before. It may sound silly, but that’s how relationships start sometimes!

✓ Wear something other than pumps, if allowed. If you’re in a conservative environment, pumps are definitely the safe way to go, but if you have some leeway, sandals are a great way to express your style. If you’re required to wear hose, wear a closed-toe shoe, no matter the season. Look to the women in higher positions to see what’s accept- able in terms of shoes and hosiery. (For more on these topics, head to Chapters 14 and 16.)

✓ Have fun with your hair. Changing your hairstyle every so often can give you a new look without having to go out and buy a new wardrobe. Just always make sure your style looks clean and neat.

If your hair covers your face or your bangs get in your eyes, your hair will be seen as an encumbrance to working most effectively. Need a stylish solution? Put your hair back in a sleek low ponytail or loose bun (see Figure 10-6).

Figure 10-6: Two perfectly acceptable hairstyles in any office setting.

You always want to feel and look your best, but remember to keep your audience in mind. Your goal is to wear what you’re comfortable in and also make the person or people you’re meeting with feel like you’re on the same page. In a work situation, you want to make the people you’re meeting with feel confident in your abilities. The way you look has a huge impact on how they perceive you before you even say a word. So if you’re meeting someone who’s on the more conservative side, dress more conservatively. If you’re meeting with someone you know is on the trendier side, grab that trendy bag (or pair of shoes) you’ve been dying to wear.

Universal rules for all kinds of business dress

Understanding exactly what a business’s dress code is (and consistency in enforcing such a code) would certainly take some of the guessing out of what to wear to work. But some types of dress don’t fly in most offices. In the same careerbuilder.com survey, 64 percent of employers said they banned flip- flops, 49 percent said no to miniskirts, and 28 percent didn’t allow jeans.

Whether dress code rules are written down in your office or not, certain guidelines are pretty universal:

✓ Whatever you wear to work, make sure it’s neat. No wrinkles or tears. If you have a pair of capri pants, but you’re not sure they’re appropriate, try ironing them. Being crisp and neat may put them over the edge from unacceptable to acceptable.

✓ If one part of your outfit may be pushing the envelope, pair it with something conservative. A sleeveless blouse, for example, can be acceptable when you wear it with a conservative skirt.

✓ Stay away from showing too much cleavage or wearing something too revealing. Tops made of translucent or wispy material are inappropriate, unless you wear a tank or camisole underneath it. And if you find yourself wondering, “Is this too much cleavage?” it’s too much. While showing cleavage can be sexy and appropriate in the evening, it’s unnecessary and distracting in the office. Worse, it can undermine the impression of professionalism you want to exude. That doesn’t mean you can’t wear a blouse with buttons or a V-neck, just err on the side of more conservative in the office.

Dressing for Off-site Work Events

Some people travel all the time — the road warriors — while others rarely leave the office. If you’re going on a quick jaunt that doesn’t require an over- night stay, your challenge is to try to keep your clothes looking fresh after you’ve been on the road for a few hours. On longer trips, you have a variety of challenges, like what to wear on the plane, what’s appropriate attire for the various activities and venues you may be at, and how to pack everything you need.

Looking stylish en route

You may be tempted to wear just any old thing on the plane (or bus or train) and change at the hotel, but I advise against it. First, lost luggage or a delayed flight can end up causing a problem. Second, you should always look your best while flying because you never know who you may meet (yes, I know I sound like your mother). The trick for dressing for the flight is to find clothing that is stylish, comfortable, and resistant to wrinkles. Some materials that fit the bill are

✓ Wool and silk: These fibers (refer to Chapter 4) have natural elasticity, which helps keep them from wrinkling.

✓ Synthetic fabrics: Fabrics such as nylon and polyester are less prone to wrinkling.

✓ Fabrics that use finishing agents designed to reduce wrinkles: Textile manufacturers began to add finishing agents to their cloths that change

the chemical structure in such a way as to make fabrics that once wrinkled easily, like cotton, wrinkle free. When purchasing garments for travel, look for pieces that say they’re wrinkle resistant and still 100 percent cotton. Some wrinkle resistant garments aren’t all cotton, but cotton polyester blends.

✓ Knits: Knits wrinkle much less than woven fabrics, so anything that’s a cable, ribbed, tricot, or jersey knit will remain wrinkle free. If you rollknit s instead of folding them when you pack, they come out of your suit- case wrinkle and fold free.

The Donna M clothing line (www.bbydonnam.com) sells something called the 5 Piece Wardrobe (see Figure 10-7). Most of the items are under $100, and you can mix and match them hundreds of different ways. The pieces are comfort- able, don’t wrinkle, and will take you from day to night in a flash. I wear them whenever I fly.

b® by donna.m — www.bByDonnaM.com

Figure 10-7: The Donna M 5 Piece Wardrobe is perfect for travel

Wrinkles can get you coming and going. So pay attention to how you look from the rear as well as the front. If your pants are creased in the back or the label on your blouse is sticking up, you may make a good first impression but a lousy parting one. So check both the front and back in a mirror before you head to that meeting.

Daytime casual

Daytime casual varies from industry to industry and from state to state. What you may wear to a luncheon in New York among people in finance is different from what you’d wear to a meeting in Los Angeles with people in the film industry. Most businesses have their own definitions of daytime casual. Unless you’ve been to a particular event or a place many times before, play it safe and slightly overdress. Better to feel a little uncomfortable because you’re slightly overdressed than to feel very uncomfortable because you’re underdressed.

One way to handle this type of dilemma is to dress in layers or use versatile accessories. If you’re wearing a jacket and no one else is, simply take the jacket off and you’ll fit right in. A silk scarf worn around your neck can make an outfit seem more formal. If it makes you seem too formal, you can simply take it off.

When you’re away from the office, sharing a meal with your colleagues is very common. If you know ahead of time where you’re dining, check out the restaurant’s Web site to get an idea of how formal or casual it is. That way, you’re prepared for each scenario.

If you travel for business, you’ll probably try to pack as few clothes as possible so that you don’t have to check your luggage. Convenient, yes, but it means you won’t have a spare blouse or skirt to change into if the one you’re wearing gets stained. Some materials are more stain resistant than others, and for those pieces that need more protection, you can use Scotchgard. Taking such garments on trips can be a good form of stain insurance. A quick and easy alternative, though, is to use a Tide Stain Stick, which removes stains on the spot. (I use my stain stick all the time!) Simply take off the cap and press down on the tip to release the stain fighter directly onto the stain. (Use cau- tion depending on the material and item you’re wearing.)

Daytime conservative

Some business trips or events require you to get dressed up. Perhaps you’re a lawyer going to court or pitching a new business to a firm. For men, the decision of what to wear is fairly easy because the key word is conservative. For women, dressing conservatively is a bit more vague. While dressing more conservatively used to mean wearing a skirt rather than pants, that’s no longer the case.

A suit (pants or skirt) always works well. Alternatively, a pencil skirt paired with a blouse or sweater set and accessories works in almost any setting. What about a dress instead of a suit? Yes, as long as it’s a simple dress (especially with a blazer over it) — no cocktail or sexy dresses! It doesn’t need to be black, but it should be conservative in color; a conservative print is fine, too. Even a sleeveless dress that hits below the knee is perfectly okay.

Each situation is different, but the old way of thinking — that a woman must wear a suit for a presentation or big meeting — is antiquated. The key is to know your audience. And if you don’t, you’re better off being as conservative as possible. No one will fault you for being too conservative, but if you’re not conservative enough, someone may immediately judge you as a person who doesn’t “get it”— a group you never want to be in!

Feeling confident is so important, and finding the right mix between dressing appropriately and dressing with confidence is the ultimate goal in any situation. Even if you have to dress conservatively, it’s sometimes fun (and appropriate) to switch it up. So pack a colorful scarf and some dangly earrings, and if it seems like you can get away with standing out a bit, go for it.

Evening casual

It’s always good to feel like you’re wearing the right thing from the second you walk in, but evening casual gets a little tricky. A cocktail party could be at the fanciest hotel in town or a pub down the block. A trip to a ballgame could be in the stands or in a company box with a waiter in a tux. Following are some suggestions:

✓ The little black dress (LBD): You can rarely go wrong with the LBD (see Chapter 7) and a pair of perfect pumps. It’s the perfect solution if you know you’re going out after work straight away. To work, wear the dress with a blazer, pumps, and work tote; for evening, simply take off the blazer, switch out your shoes and bag, and add some dressy jewelry (see Figure 10-8).

✓ Statement jewelry: Adding bold jewelry is a great way to make your outfit more exciting.

✓ A suit with something pretty underneath: An outfit like this takes you from day to night and is the perfect solution if you know you’re going out after work straight away. If you wear a pant suit with a pretty blouse or tank underneath, you can go from your business meeting to a cocktail party simply by removing the jacket.

Figure 10-8: With the right basics, you can easily go from work wear to social wear.

Of course the final decision about what to wear depends on the activity involved. Dinner at a barbeque restaurant obviously rules out your LBD. There is nothing wrong (by the way) in saying to a co-worker you trust, “What are you wearing tonight?”

Evening fancy

A business black-tie affair is not a wedding or a party with friends, where you may want to show off your fabulous back or beautiful cleavage. Leave that look for your next big social

event. At a business event, even one where you need to dress to the nines, keep your outfit stylish but work-appropriate at the same time (see Figure 10-9). Following are some guidelines:

✓ Don’t wear anything too revealing. “Too revealing” is anything that implies sexy, especially when it comes to cleavage, though in some situations, you also want to make sure your upper arms and back are covered, too. If you decide to wear something that you have in your closet already but that may be too revealing on top, a wrap is always a great solution. It covers you up a bit while maintaining a pulled together and, depending on the wrap, dressy look. Many kinds of wraps are available, some with beading, that are perfect for evening wear.

✓ Choose an outfit that’s relatively easy to put on. You may not have a lot of time to change. If you have business meetings during the day, the meeting may run longer than expected. If you don’t have a female associate with you to zip you up, you’d better wear something that you can get in and out of on your own.

 

Figure 10-9: An outfit that’s elegant without being too sexy.

✓ Make sure whatever you take looks great once it comes out of your suitcase. A great trick to get rid of wrinkles is to turn your shower on hot and close the bathroom door. The steam from the shower helps take out any wrinkles and generally freshens up your outfit.

Your gown should be modest but it doesn’t have to be dowdy. Take advantage of embellishments like beading, embroidery, rhinestones, velvet, and metallic pieces to give your look some sparkle. Make sure that you have a matching evening clutch because, again, everything should be fabulous like you. Buying a great silver or gold clutch to keep in your wardrobe is always a good idea as it can work with many different outfits.

All these warnings don’t mean that when you go out with co-workers, you can’t show a different side of yourself. Business black-tie affairs are prime opportunities to let co-workers see glimpses of what you’re like outside of the office (which is often interesting and fun). But you have to walk a fine line. If you have any question about whether something will work, don’t wear it. It’s better not to test the water until you know for sure.

If you don’t have a great work-appropriate formal dress and you’re just finding your personal style, a black cocktail dress is always a safe bet and works well for many occasions. Choose one with a conservative neckline that doesn’t show cleavage. Some good options include a basic round neck, a square neck, or a boat neck (Chapter 9 describes the different kinds of necklines). Sleeveless can work if you pair it with a shawl or shrug that you can remove if appropriate.

Packing for a Business Trip

When you pack for a vacation or a weekend getaway, you usually have the luxury of packing more than you need. If you can’t decide between the strappy sandals and sparkly sling-backs, you can pack both and decide later. Packing for a business trip is an entirely different thing. Your goal is to pack the most functional clothing into the least amount of space because if you can avoid having to check your luggage, all the better.

You’ve seen the road warriors. They travel differently than everybody else. First, they’re usually carrying around a lot of electronic equipment, heaviest of all being their laptop computer and battery pack. Second, they almost never check their luggage (see Figure 10-10). They manage to fit everything into a carry-on.

Yes, packing everything you need into one case is a challenge, but it’s a must for an overnight trip. And it’s completely doable. Here’s how:

✓ Wear the clothing that’s going to take up the most room in your luggage. If a blazer is required, wear it on board. You can probably hang it up once you’re on the plane. If you’re flying from a warm climate to a colder one, wear your overcoat and stick it in the overhead compartment when you get on the plane. If you absolutely need two pairs of shoes, wear the one that would take up the most luggage space (which are hopefully the ones that are more comfortable).

✓ Roll, rather than fold, your

clothing. As I said earlier, knits make great travel clothes because they can be rolled up without wrinkling. In fact, any type of clothing generally accumulates less wrinkles when rolled. Clothes made with spandex or polyester blends throw off wrinkles no matter how you pack them. (These fabrics are good not only for packing, but also for sitting in long meetings.)

Figure 10-10: Ready for a business trip.

✓ Make sure everything you take can be mixed and matched. If you’re going for two days, you need to pack only one and a half outfits rather than two. Black is an especially good color to wear because it doesn’t show any stains that may splash your way.

✓ Choose things that you can wear multiple times. If you have a pair of straight-legged black pants and a black pencil skirt (which has less fabric so packs easier) and a pair of black pumps, all you need are a couple of monochromatic tops and you can go for quite a few days that way.

✓ Choose lighter rather than heavier clothing. Because it may be cold on the plane and many airlines no longer give blankets, a cardigan is a good idea because it can also substitute for a jacket. Instead of bringing jeans to lounge in your room (if you don’t plan to wear them when you’re not working), take along a pair of lightweight sweat pants instead. They take up less space.

Though more companies are cutting their travel budgets these days, busi- ness travelers will never completely disappear. If you find yourself one of them, don’t allow being on the road make you any less fashionable.

Dressing for Every Day

In This Chapter

▶ Knowing what to look for in blouses and sweaters

▶ Understanding skirt and dress styles

▶ Finding the perfect pants

Do you wake up in the morning, open your closet, and pull out the same pair of pants or skirt every time? My guess is you do. Well, that’s okay.

We all have pieces in our wardrobe that we just can’t live without. And, for the most part, it’s fine to wear those pieces over and over again, provided that they are 10s and as long as you mix and match them with a variety of different tops.

Before the late 1800s, women always wore dresses. Obviously, that’s not the case today. Women nowadays have an overwhelming variety of clothing and styles to choose from: pants, dresses, blouses, skirts, and more. The key to being stylish is to make sure that each piece you put on works with your shape and the items you pair with it. This chapter lists the basic wardrobe pieces and explains how you can use them to express your style while remaining true to your personality and body type.

Tops First: Blouses and Sweaters

The right sweater worn with jeans can make for a very sexy outfit. So what’s the “right” sweater? Depends on your body type. Different materials and cuts work better on certain body types. If you’re larger on top, you can project a slimmer appearance by wearing a more fitted, longer sweater (bulky sweaters just make you appear larger). The same holds true for blouses: Just because you love a blouse you see in a store window doesn’t mean that that blouse is the one for you. A beautiful blouse with ruffles draws attention to your upper half. If you’re an apple shape, you’d do better with something simpler on top so as not to draw too much attention to an area you’d rather minimize. If you’re a pear shape, a ruffled blouse accentuates your top half and draws attention away from your hips, which is the goal. The following sections explain what to look for to make sure your tops look and feel great on you.

A fitting start: Getting a good fit

You face a lot of choices when you go to buy a blouse — fabric, color, and pattern — but the number one reason to buy, or not buy, a blouse is fit.

No matter how great the blouse looks on the rack, if it doesn’t fit your body, then it won’t look good on you.

How can you tell whether a blouse fits or not? Here are some guidelines:

The blouse is too big if

✓ You can grab handfuls of fabric.

✓ The neckline won’t lie flat on your neck.

✓ The shoulders drop, causing the neckline to ride up.

✓ The sleeves are too long.

The blouse is too small if

✓ The button line pulls, especially across the chest area.

✓ It feels tight when you cross your arms.

✓ The sleeves are too short.

✓ You can’t roll up the sleeves because it’s too tight on your arms.

A shirt that fits nicely feels comfortable and allows you to move without making it look like you have no shape. In other words, it should make you look and feel like a 10 (refer to Chapter 2 for my 10 System)!

Buttons to the left or right?

You may have noticed that the construction of a woman’s blouse is different than a man’s shirt. The most interesting difference is the location of the buttons: On a woman’s blouse, the but- tons are on the left side; on a man’s shirt, they’re on the right. No one knows exactly when or why this change took place, but one interesting theory is that buttoning a blouse from the left made it easier for ladies’ maids, who were responsible for helping the lady of the house dress, to get the buttons in the buttonholes.

Paying attention to cut

There are two ways to make a blouse or any article of clothing:

✓ Draping: You drape the cloth over a model, work to get the right fit, and then make a pattern from that one piece.

✓ Flat cut: You create the pattern first and then fit the pieces together.

It takes a lot more effort to design with draping, plus there’s the added cost of the models, who can earn as much as $200 an hour. For that reason, blouses (and other articles of clothing) that have been draped are more expensive than those that have been flat cut. You can often tell whether a blouse was draped just by looking at it. If all the angles seem rounded, like at the shoulders, then it was draped. If it appears flatter, then it was flat cut.

In better quality blouses, you also find different cuts: classic, slim, and skinny. The classic cut is looser than the slim cut. The skinny cut is fairly tight. Which cut you choose depends on your body type, your breast size, and where you plan to wear it. If you’re at work and need to move around, you’re going to want a fit that allows you to move easily, such as the classic cut; if you’re going out and want to appear a little sexy, then you may choose the slim or skinny cut.

Higher-end brands, like Ralph Lauren, designate their blouses as slim cut, classic cut, and so on. But not all manufacturers define the cut of their blouses. And not all manufacturers make all three cuts. If you try on blouses by several different designers, you can see which designer’s line fits you best. When you find a blouse that fits you perfectly, see whether you’re interested in anything else in that designer’s line. Chances are, the designer’s other items will also fit you well.

Style elements

For an article as basic as a woman’s blouse, an incredible variety exists. Each area of the blouse — the collar, neckline, sleeve, cuff, waist, and length — can have many different iterations. When you combine them, the variety seems endless.

Collar types

Originally collars were a separate item attached to the shirt. Today all collars come pre-attached. Out of the more than 50 different collar types, the follow- ing are the most common:

✓ Conservative collars: The classic and the round collars (shown in Figure 9-1) are the most common and conservative, and they work with all body types. You really can’t go wrong choosing this collar style.

Figure 9-1: Conservative collars.

✓ Feminine collars: The ruffle, sash-bow, and shawl collars are the most girlie and feminine, and because they draw the eye to your neckline, they’re perfect if you want to draw attention to your upper half. Any of these collars, shown in Figure 9-2, are perfect with a pencil skirt to give your look a little flair.

Figure 9-2: Feminine collars.

✓ Youthful collars: The Peter Pan and sailor collars, shown in Figure 9-3, tend to be on the youthful side. You see them mostly in little girls’ clothes. If you want to be taken seriously as an adult with style, I suggest you avoid these collars altogether.

Figure 9-3: Youthful collars.

✓ Other collars: The Mandarin and the Chelsea collars are style statements in and of themselves, but they’re rarely considered high style. The Chelsea is a very old-fashioned look and is rarely, if ever, seen; the mandarin collar looks a bit costumey. These two collars aren’t necessary to have in your wardrobe.

The button-down collar is more of a man’s shirt collar type. For women, stick with the classic collar. Figure 9-4 shows the Mandarin, Chelsea, and button-down collar types.

Figure 9-4: Other types of collars.

Necklines

Not all shirts have a collar, in which case the neckline is what shows. Because some necklines may suit you more than others, they’re an important factor to consider. The following list describes the most common necklines:

✓ Conservative necklines: The boat neck and the jewel neck, shown in Figure 9-5, are more conservative. The boat neck covers you to the neck, but because it opens wider at the shoulders, it makes your shoulders appear broader, which in turn makes your waist look narrower. If you’re on the small side on top, have narrow shoulders, or want to minimize the waist area, this neckline is great for you. The jewel neck is a round, flat neckline that works well when you want to wear a fabulous necklace. The jewel neck works for every body type and won’t draw attention unless, of course, you accessorize.

 

Figure 9-5: Conservative necklines.

✓ Feminine and flirty necklines: The halter, keyhole, one-shoulder, and off- the-shoulder necklines are the most feminine and flirty. They expose your shoulders (or at least one of them), which is flattering for most women. (Shoulders are sexy, and bare shoulders are appropriate for any age.) The keyhole neckline exposes just a bit of skin, but makes the top fun and interesting. All of these necklines, shown in Figure 9-6, draw atten- tion to your shoulder and neck area, thus minimizing the attention paid to your bottom half.

Figure 9-6: Flirty necklines.

✓ Necklines that expose your décolletage: The scoop, square, sweetheart,

V-neck, and wrap-over all expose your décolletage. The only difference

is the actual shape of the neckline (as Figure 9-7 shows). If you like this area and want to show it off, these necklines do that. Again, an interest- ing neckline always draw attention to that area and away from your lower half.

Figure 9-7: Necklines that expose your décolletage.

Sleeves

Sleeves have less variety than other parts of a top, but finding the right sleeve is an important factor for many women. Obviously short-sleeves and sleeveless tops, as well as cap sleeves, are going to expose your arms (see Figure 9-8). If you have great arms and want to show them off, any of these lengths are good for you.

Figure 9-8: Sleeves that expose your arms.

Fortunately, if you don’t want to expose your arms, especially your upper arms, you have other options. In addition to long-sleeves, you can try the three-quarter length sleeve, which ends anywhere from just below your elbow to the middle of your lower arm, showing off just the thin part of your arm. They’re a classic, as well as a perfect way to keep cool in the warmer months.

The bell sleeve is another option. This sleeve gets wider and bells out toward your wrist. Just like flared jeans draw attention to your lower leg, this sleeve draws attention to your lower arm. If you’re self-conscious about your upper arms, bell sleeves flatter you and make a style statement at the same time. Figure 9-9 shows the long, three-quarter, and bell sleeves.

Figure 9-9: Sleeves that cover your arms.

The extended-shoulder and princess sleeves (see Figure 9-10) are all about shoulders and femininity. The extended-shoulder is an unstructured look that softens the appearance of broad shoulders (because there’s no definition to where the shoulder ends and the arm begins). The princess sleeve has a puffy shoulder, a style that also softens the appearance of the shoulder area and gives the top some style.

Figure 9-10: Sleeves that soften the appearance of broad shoulders.

Shapes

The manner in which a blouse covers the upper half of your body is deter- mined by its shape. In addition to length, here are some features that can alter the shape of a blouse (see Figure 9-11):

✓ Darts: Darts make a blouse more fitted and structured. If you have a thin midsection and you want to show it off, a darted blouse accentuates this area.

✓ Peasant or camp style with front and back yokes: This shape is a looser, unstructured cut, with more material around the midsection. It’s soft and feminine and hides your midsection because it just drapes around it.

✓ Shirred waist: A shirred waist is gathered at the waist line. This look is great if you have a thin waist and want to draw the attention there.

✓ Straight hem meant not to be tucked in: This shape is cut straight down, so it doesn’t accentuate your waistline, nor does it hug too tightly. If you are larger in the middle, this cut works for you because it doesn’t look too tight but still shows that you have some shape.

Cute as a button

Most blouses have buttons that go all the way down the front or have several in the back near the neck to make the garment easier to put on and take off. Buttons in the front, back, or none at all are style choices you make when buying a top. In addition to providing a utilitarian or

decorative purpose, buttons can clue you in on the quality of the blouse. The opening down the front is called the placket. If the stitching on the placket looks weak, or the stitches are far apart, then the garment is not top quality.

 

Figure 9-11: A variety of shapes.

Length is another factor that determines shape. If you have a narrow waist, you can show it off by wearing a shorter length blouse. If you prefer to camouflage your waistline in order to appear longer and leaner, then a longer length may be better.

A word about sweaters

Sweaters are tops made from knit material which, when used as a top and not an over-garment to add warmth, are generally tighter fitting and typically don’t have collars. Sweaters that have buttons down the front are called cardigans. Others are pullovers, because you pull them on over your head (duh!), which is possible because their knitted material is more stretchy.

✓ Fitted sweaters: Fitted sweaters are generally on the simpler side and typically worn alone or over a very thin layer. They can be made from everything from cotton to cashmere, and they come with a variety of necklines: round, V-neck, or turtleneck. They’re usually solid in color and are great to wear with jeans, corduroys, slacks, or even with a skirt. You can dress them up or down, depending on what you pair them with. Fitted sweaters show off your torso. If you want to show off your midsection, these sweaters are right for you.

✓ Chunky sweaters: Chunky sweaters tend to be very casual (they’re best paired with jeans or cords) and, for this reason, they aren’t really for work. If you’re on the heavier side, a chunky sweater makes you look even larger. If you’re on the petite side, a chunky sweater can over- whelm you.

✓ Fancy sweaters: If you want to wear a sweater out at night or to someplace dressier, look for one with adornments. Fancy sweaters are especially appropriate and readily available around the holidays. Many sweaters are decorated with sequins, paillettes, or rhinestones, which make them dressier and more appropriate for evening wear.

Sweaters by nature are clingy and show off your curves. If you are at all self- conscious about this, sweaters on their own may not be the right look for you. Try putting a fitted sweater under a blazer or layer a sweater over a blouse so that it doesn’t cling as tightly.

Skirts and Dresses

Nothing is better than wearing a dress to work (or out!) that fits your body perfectly. Some women say that slipping on a dress is easy because there is very little thinking to do; just accessorize and go!

Dress styles

I wear dresses to the beach and to black-tie affairs. Dresses were once considered formal, but now you can pretty much get away with a dress anywhere, anytime. When choosing the right piece to wear, you must ask yourself many different questions regarding length, style, and what you want your overall look to be. You must make many choices before determining the perfect dress for any occasion.

✓ A-line: An A-line dress (see Figure 9-12) is fitted at the waist and flares out from the waist down. This style looks good on everyone. It’s especially good for camouflaging your hips and thighs, so if you’re a pear shape or just want to hide this area, the A-line is the perfect choice.

✓ Babydoll: Short, flouncy, and with an empire waist (see Figure 9-12), a babydoll dress may look more like a negligee than a dress. Even though the neckline is usually more round than plunging, it is sexy. The empire waist on this style camouflages your midsection by loosely draping over that whole area. If you’re trying to cover your tummy, a babydoll dress will work for you. If you’re apple shaped, be careful. The empire waist accentuates your bust and upper body, causing you to look even more top-heavy. This style is best for tall, thin types and tends to look very youthful, so take your age into account if you try to pull this off.

✓ Cocktail dress: The cocktail dress encompasses many styles (including the little black dress) and is appropriate at almost every occasion (see Figure 9-13). You can dress it up or down with the help of accessories. Cocktail dresses are generally around knee length — unless, of course, they’re tea length, which means they end mid-calf. They can be sleeve- less, strapless, or have sleeves long or short. Because there are so many styles, you can easily find one that’s right for your body type.

✓ Empire dress: The waist of this style of dress is set above the natural waistline, often just below the bust (see Figure 9-13). Similar to the babydoll dress, the empire dress can be any length and doesn’t have to be flouncy. This type of waist is good for someone with a smaller bust because it accentuates that area. It also takes your true waistline com- pletely out of the picture. So if you have issues with your tummy, waist, hips, or anywhere below the bust line, this dress hides all that for you.

Figure 9-12: From left: A-line and babydoll.

✓ Evening gown: For formal, black-tie occasions, most evening gowns are floor length (see Figure 9-13). Because they’re not exclusive to one body type, anyone should be able to find an evening gown that flatters her body type. You just need to follow the body type rules and find one

that works for you. Evening gowns can be very simple or have embellishments like lace or beading. It’s really about personal style. My favorite evening gown is strapless, black, and simple.

Figure 9-13: From left: Cocktail, empire, and evening gown.

✓ Jumper: A jumper is a sleeveless dress designed to be worn over a blouse, T-shirt, or sweater (see Figure 9-14). Jumpers can vary in length, but most hit right at the knee, and they’re often paired with pumps or high boots. This cut is pretty straight so anyone can wear it.

✓ Mini: Any dress that stops 2 or more inches above the knees qualifies as a mini, shown in Figure 9-14, though the actual style can vary from a sheath to a shift. Micro-minis are even shorter. The mini is best for someone — apples, this usually means you — with thin legs. Regardless of your shape, if you’ve got great legs, show them off. Keep in mind, though, that the mini is a youthful look.

✓ Maxi: The maxi was a counterpoint to the mini, bringing hemlines down after they’d crept up. A maxi, shown in Figure 9-14, is a full-length dress and works for those who want to cover up their bottom half. It also gives you the appearance of being longer and leaner because of the one, long line of material.

✓ Sheath: A sheath dress, shown in Figure 9-15, is very fitted (so it shows off your curves) but has no waist, thus creating a long line that has a slimming effect. Sheaths are usually sleeveless. If you’d prefer not to expose your arms, this dress style isn’t right for you.

Figure 9-14: From left: Jumper, mini, and maxi.

✓ Shift: A shift is a straight-cut dress with no waist (see Figure 9-15). Shifts are a great choice for those who don’t want something as fitted as a sheath but still want to wear a flattering dress. Again, because the dress has no waist, it creates a long, lean line in the torso; it’s a good style for every body type.

✓ Wrap: A wrap dress, shown in Figure 9-15, wraps around your body and closes in the front. Diane Von Furstenberg made the wrap dress famous back in the 1970s. These dresses are classic and flatter every body type because they accentuate the neckline, and the line where it wraps creates a long appearance. You can also wrap the dress so that it’s just the right fit — not too tight or too loose — which also is more flattering.

Figure 9-15: From left: Sheath, shift, and wrap.

Skirts

The advantage that skirts and blouses have over dresses is that you can mix and match them to get many different looks. Take a bold, fun-patterned skirt, for example, and match it with a plain white T-shirt for a chic look, or pair a beautiful silk blouse with a pencil skirt and be ready to go. It’s all about how you mix and match.

If you’re like most women, you like certain parts of your body more than others. Because women have so many likes and dislikes, designers have created a plethora of skirt styles to fit any body type. The trick is (again) knowing what your best parts are, highlighting them, and choosing with confidence clothing that works best on you. Take skirt length, for example.

If your legs are skinny, you want to wear skirts that have hemlines ending at the widest part of your leg (your thighs) — in other words, miniskirts. This doesn’t mean you can’t wear other types of skirts; instead it means that a mini looks great on you. If, on the other hand, your legs are heavier, your hemline should hit the skinniest part of your leg, which is most likely somewhere below the knee, possibly even below the calf.

In addition to skirt length, you have skirt style to consider. Here are some of the most popular varieties:

✓ A-line: A-line skirts are snug at the waist, barely touch your hips and thighs, and widen as they approach the hem (see Figure 9-16). Usually their length is below the knee. They’re a good look for pear-shaped women who are heavier in the hips and thighs and not flattering to women without much of a derriere. However, a large pattern can make an A-line more suitable for thin women.

✓ Flared: A flared skirt is an A-line with more material so that it swings and swishes about your lower legs as you walk, adding to the slimming effect (see Figure 9-16). A flare with an uneven hem, especially in a light- weight fabric like chiffon, draws the eye away from your hips even more.

✓ Circle or peasant skirt: With lots of material, these skirts hide everything! They’re full length and very loose and drapey, as shown in Figure 9-16, so you really can’t see any shape underneath. So girls, whether you want to appear larger or smaller, this skirt does the trick!

Figure 9-16: From left: A-line, flared, and circle skirts.

✓ Straight skirt: In a straight skirt, the material falls straight from the hip (see Figure 9-17). Larger women should have more length in their straight skirts, while thinner women look better if the skirt is shorter.

If you’re tall, you can pretty much get away with a straight skirt being long or short, but if you’re shorter, showing more leg makes you appear taller. If you want to show off your curves, choose a straight skirt in a material that clings, like satin. Vertical details on the skirt, such as pin- stripes or stitching, can add to the slimming effect.

✓ Pencil skirt: Like the straight skirt, the pencil skirt’s material falls from the hip but is more fitted to the body to emphasize the hips (see Figure 9-17). These skirts aren’t ideal for those who need camouflage. If you have small hips, a high waist makes you appear more curvy. Generally pencil skirts are knee length, but the shorter your torso, the shorter the skirt should be to add length to your legs. Normally pencil skirts are plain and monochromatic.

✓ Tube skirt: The tube skirt is like the pencil skirt but longer, sometimes all the way to the ankle (see Figure 9-17). In fact, the only way you can walk in a tube skirt is if the skirt has a slit. This isn’t an easy look for most women to pull off because it is very fitted and clingy and shows everything on your lower half except for skin. Not to worry though, you don’t see many of these skirts around!

✓  Wrap skirt: A wrap skirt, shown in Figure 9-17, can be long or short. If you get one that’s the right length to flatter your legs, this type of skirt can look good on any body type. Like the wrap dress, you can adjust it to fit you perfectly.

Figure 9-17: From left: Straight, pencil, tube, and wrap skirts.

Slacks

Many women think skirts are sexier than pants. Are they? The answer is, not always. Although a great pencil skirt can show off your curves and give you a sophisticated, classic look, the right pair of slacks can do the same thing. Find out how to choose your pants wisely in this section.

Length

The most distinguishing aspect of slacks, besides the material (discussed in the later section “Pant material”), is length. Women have the choice between pants that are full length, ankle length, or capri style, which can reach anywhere from the calf almost all the way to the knee, where they actually infringe on the territory claimed by shorts.

Pant length is measured not from the top of the waist, but from the bottom of the crotch to the bottom of the pants leg. This measurement is called your inseam. It’s hard to measure your inseam yourself, but if you get help and keep it noted somewhere, it can be a very helpful measurement to know when buying slacks. (For information on other key measurements, refer to Chapter 3.)

The zakkerz

Are you one of those women who wear flats to work and then change to heels when you get there? How many times have you worn a pair of pants and ruined the bottom of them because they are just too long for flats? Well, I have found the invention for you! The zakkerz (www. zakkerz.com) is an item that you use to temporarily hem your pants without using stitches! To use the zakkerz, follow these steps (it works, trust me!):

1 . Roll pant leg up to desired length .

2 . Wrap the zakkerz around the bottom of pant, with one end of zakkerz inside the pant leg and other end outside pant leg .

The magnets bring the two ends of the zakkerz together and hold the roll-up in place.

©Zakkerz, Inc. www.zakkerz.com

In determining the best length, keep these things in mind:

✓ The type of shoes you’re wearing: The biggest problem women have with pant length is that their height changes depending on the shoes they wear. If your pants are full length, you always want them to hit the top of your shoe or foot, if you’re wearing a sandal (see Figure 9-18).

Figure 9-18: The correct hem length.

✓ The area you want to highlight (for capris or pedal pushers): Pedal pushers or capri pants are supposed to be short. But exactly where they fall can change your appearance. Ideally you want to show your legs off to their best advantage. If your legs are thin, your capris should end at your widest part, the middle of your calf, which adds breadth to your leg. If your legs are heavy, your capris should end just below the calf in order to highlight the thinnest part of your lower leg.

Pant rise

The rise of a pair of slacks is the distance between the crotch and the waist. Depending on your size, the rise for a normal pair of pants is usually around 10 or 11 inches. Low-rise pants (which have waists below the normal waist line) and high-waisted pants (which have rises higher than the normal waist line) have different rise lengths.

When you consider rise, don’t be unduly swayed by the current fashion (such as when low-rise pants are all the rage). Instead, consider what looks good on your body type:

✓ Short- versus long-waisted: If you’re a short-waisted person, you generally look better in a low-rise pair of pants, because they make your torso look longer. If you’re long-waisted, a low-rise extends your torso even further — probably not what you want.

✓ Apple versus pear: Low-rise pants show off more of the belly. So the more belly you have (if you’re an apple shape), the less appropriate a low-rise is for your shape because your goal is to minimize your midsection. (If low-rise is more comfortable for you to wear because it’s less binding around the middle, by all means wear low-rise pants. Just make sure you wear a long top and/or jacket to cover and elongate the area.) If you’re a pear and have a slim waist, you can wear low- or high-rise pants. Both accentuate your thin waist.

Pant legs

In addition to the height of the hem, the shape of the leg is also very important in determining what kind of pants look good on you (see Figure 9-19).

✓ Straight leg: A straight leg drops straight down from its widest point, which is the part that touches the hips. This look is flattering for every body type. The straight line doesn’t accentuate the top or the bottom of the leg, nor does it attract the eye to any particular area.

Figure 9-19: A variety of pant legs.

✓ Tapered: Tapered pants have a slight narrowing below the hips, all the way down to the ankle. Skinny pants are a style of tapered pants. The difference is that they hug your legs from top to bottom. These pants are better for those with skinny legs because they draw the focus to the legs, but because the pant leg gets narrower at the bottom, it accentuates the waist. If you don’t want to accentuate your hips or waist area, avoid this style.

✓ Flared: Flared-leg pants widen toward the bottom. A slight flare is called a boot cut, meaning you can fit a tall boot under your pants. When the flare is extreme, it’s called a bell bottom. This style is great if you’re hippy or bigger in the waist area, because the flare draws attention to the lower leg. The width of the flare balances out the waistline and minimizes its appearance.

✓ Stirrup: These pants have a piece of elastic that extends under the foot. Originally for people who rode horses (the stirrup stops the pant leg from riding up), stirrup pants are also used in other sports, like skiing, where the same thing may happen.

✓ Cargo pants: These pants are especially popular as an alternative to jeans. Although traditionally they’re not very dressy and are best meant for play time, some versions have been made in dressier materials and can be worn as such. Cargo pants have pockets on the side of the legs and are best suited for women with skinny legs, because the pockets tend to make you look wider.

Pant material

Pants can be made from any material, but certain materials have become closely associated with pants more than tops, mostly because of their durability. Pants get more wear and tear than tops, so they need to be able to stand up to all the activity.

Denim

The most ubiquitous pant material is denim, particularly blue denim. Blue jeans, originally made by Levi Strauss in the 19th century, started out as work pants and the material was made as sturdy as possible so that it would last. In the 1960s, jeans became part of the uniform of young people and then morphed into a piece of apparel that was worn by everyone.

Jeans have their own look, and people of every size and shape wear them. They are a great staple, and so many styles are available that you can definitely find a pair that suits your body type and flatters your figure. Styles include

low-waisted, high-waisted, straight leg, skinny leg, flared leg — just make sure you get the right size (measured by waist size and inseam length) and choose the style that suits you. Jeans tend to be form-fitting and show off your legs. If that’s not what you want, you probably won’t choose jeans for every occasion. Most people, though, feel comfortable in them. Even if your jeans are for casual wear only, having a pair that fits you really well is a good idea.

If you’re going to go with only one pair of jeans for the season, pick a pair of dark denim, boot cut jeans. Dark denim is the most versatile kind, and boot cut is a safe choice because it fits most women and can go with most looks.

Khakis

Khakis, or chinos, are made from a yellowish brown cotton twill fabric (refer to Chapter 4 for information on twill and other types of weaves). Khaki pants can range in color from olive green to a light tan. Like jeans, khakis have become a separate entity unto themselves. They’re very preppy and can be worn to informal occasions and also to work. The same rules apply to khakis as to any other slacks: Choose a style that works for your body type.

Dressing for Every Day

In This Chapter

▶ Knowing what to look for in blouses and sweaters

▶ Understanding skirt and dress styles

▶ Finding the perfect pants

Do you wake up in the morning, open your closet, and pull out the same pair of pants or skirt every time? My guess is you do. Well, that’s okay.

We all have pieces in our wardrobe that we just can’t live without. And, for the most part, it’s fine to wear those pieces over and over again, provided that they are 10s and as long as you mix and match them with a variety of different tops.

Before the late 1800s, women always wore dresses. Obviously, that’s not the case today. Women nowadays have an overwhelming variety of clothing and styles to choose from: pants, dresses, blouses, skirts, and more. The key to being stylish is to make sure that each piece you put on works with your shape and the items you pair with it. This chapter lists the basic wardrobe pieces and explains how you can use them to express your style while remaining true to your personality and body type.

Tops First: Blouses and Sweaters

The right sweater worn with jeans can make for a very sexy outfit. So what’s the “right” sweater? Depends on your body type. Different materials and cuts work better on certain body types. If you’re larger on top, you can project a slimmer appearance by wearing a more fitted, longer sweater (bulky sweaters just make you appear larger). The same holds true for blouses: Just because you love a blouse you see in a store window doesn’t mean that that blouse is the one for you. A beautiful blouse with ruffles draws attention to your upper half. If you’re an apple shape, you’d do better with something simpler on top so as not to draw too much attention to an area you’d rather minimize. If you’re a pear shape, a ruffled blouse accentuates your top half and draws attention away from your hips, which is the goal. The following sections explain what to look for to make sure your tops look and feel great on you.

A fitting start: Getting a good fit

You face a lot of choices when you go to buy a blouse — fabric, color, and pattern — but the number one reason to buy, or not buy, a blouse is fit.

No matter how great the blouse looks on the rack, if it doesn’t fit your body, then it won’t look good on you.

How can you tell whether a blouse fits or not? Here are some guidelines:

The blouse is too big if

✓ You can grab handfuls of fabric.

✓ The neckline won’t lie flat on your neck.

✓ The shoulders drop, causing the neckline to ride up.

✓ The sleeves are too long.

The blouse is too small if

✓ The button line pulls, especially across the chest area.

✓ It feels tight when you cross your arms.

✓ The sleeves are too short.

✓ You can’t roll up the sleeves because it’s too tight on your arms.

A shirt that fits nicely feels comfortable and allows you to move without making it look like you have no shape. In other words, it should make you look and feel like a 10 (refer to Chapter 2 for my 10 System)!

Buttons to the left or right?

You may have noticed that the construction of a woman’s blouse is different than a man’s shirt. The most interesting difference is the location of the buttons: On a woman’s blouse, the but- tons are on the left side; on a man’s shirt, they’re on the right. No one knows exactly when or why this change took place, but one interesting theory is that buttoning a blouse from the left made it easier for ladies’ maids, who were responsible for helping the lady of the house dress, to get the buttons in the buttonholes.

Paying attention to cut

There are two ways to make a blouse or any article of clothing:

✓ Draping: You drape the cloth over a model, work to get the right fit, and then make a pattern from that one piece.

✓ Flat cut: You create the pattern first and then fit the pieces together.

It takes a lot more effort to design with draping, plus there’s the added cost of the models, who can earn as much as $200 an hour. For that reason, blouses (and other articles of clothing) that have been draped are more expensive than those that have been flat cut. You can often tell whether a blouse was draped just by looking at it. If all the angles seem rounded, like at the shoulders, then it was draped. If it appears flatter, then it was flat cut.

In better quality blouses, you also find different cuts: classic, slim, and skinny. The classic cut is looser than the slim cut. The skinny cut is fairly tight. Which cut you choose depends on your body type, your breast size, and where you plan to wear it. If you’re at work and need to move around, you’re going to want a fit that allows you to move easily, such as the classic cut; if you’re going out and want to appear a little sexy, then you may choose the slim or skinny cut.

Higher-end brands, like Ralph Lauren, designate their blouses as slim cut, classic cut, and so on. But not all manufacturers define the cut of their blouses. And not all manufacturers make all three cuts. If you try on blouses by several different designers, you can see which designer’s line fits you best. When you find a blouse that fits you perfectly, see whether you’re interested in anything else in that designer’s line. Chances are, the designer’s other items will also fit you well.

Style elements

For an article as basic as a woman’s blouse, an incredible variety exists. Each area of the blouse — the collar, neckline, sleeve, cuff, waist, and length — can have many different iterations. When you combine them, the variety seems endless.

Collar types

Originally collars were a separate item attached to the shirt. Today all collars come pre-attached. Out of the more than 50 different collar types, the follow- ing are the most common:

✓ Conservative collars: The classic and the round collars (shown in Figure 9-1) are the most common and conservative, and they work with all body types. You really can’t go wrong choosing this collar style.

Figure 9-1: Conservative collars.

✓ Feminine collars: The ruffle, sash-bow, and shawl collars are the most girlie and feminine, and because they draw the eye to your neckline, they’re perfect if you want to draw attention to your upper half. Any of these collars, shown in Figure 9-2, are perfect with a pencil skirt to give your look a little flair.

Figure 9-2: Feminine collars.

✓ Youthful collars: The Peter Pan and sailor collars, shown in Figure 9-3, tend to be on the youthful side. You see them mostly in little girls’ clothes. If you want to be taken seriously as an adult with style, I suggest you avoid these collars altogether.

Figure 9-3: Youthful collars.

✓ Other collars: The Mandarin and the Chelsea collars are style statements in and of themselves, but they’re rarely considered high style. The Chelsea is a very old-fashioned look and is rarely, if ever, seen; the mandarin collar looks a bit costumey. These two collars aren’t necessary to have in your wardrobe.

The button-down collar is more of a man’s shirt collar type. For women, stick with the classic collar. Figure 9-4 shows the Mandarin, Chelsea, and button-down collar types.

Figure 9-4: Other types of collars.

Necklines

Not all shirts have a collar, in which case the neckline is what shows. Because some necklines may suit you more than others, they’re an important factor to consider. The following list describes the most common necklines:

✓ Conservative necklines: The boat neck and the jewel neck, shown in Figure 9-5, are more conservative. The boat neck covers you to the neck, but because it opens wider at the shoulders, it makes your shoulders appear broader, which in turn makes your waist look narrower. If you’re on the small side on top, have narrow shoulders, or want to minimize the waist area, this neckline is great for you. The jewel neck is a round, flat neckline that works well when you want to wear a fabulous necklace. The jewel neck works for every body type and won’t draw attention unless, of course, you accessorize.

 

Figure 9-5: Conservative necklines.

✓ Feminine and flirty necklines: The halter, keyhole, one-shoulder, and off- the-shoulder necklines are the most feminine and flirty. They expose your shoulders (or at least one of them), which is flattering for most women. (Shoulders are sexy, and bare shoulders are appropriate for any age.) The keyhole neckline exposes just a bit of skin, but makes the top fun and interesting. All of these necklines, shown in Figure 9-6, draw atten- tion to your shoulder and neck area, thus minimizing the attention paid to your bottom half.

Figure 9-6: Flirty necklines.

✓ Necklines that expose your décolletage: The scoop, square, sweetheart,

V-neck, and wrap-over all expose your décolletage. The only difference

is the actual shape of the neckline (as Figure 9-7 shows). If you like this area and want to show it off, these necklines do that. Again, an interest- ing neckline always draw attention to that area and away from your lower half.

Figure 9-7: Necklines that expose your décolletage.

Sleeves

Sleeves have less variety than other parts of a top, but finding the right sleeve is an important factor for many women. Obviously short-sleeves and sleeveless tops, as well as cap sleeves, are going to expose your arms (see Figure 9-8). If you have great arms and want to show them off, any of these lengths are good for you.

Figure 9-8: Sleeves that expose your arms.

Fortunately, if you don’t want to expose your arms, especially your upper arms, you have other options. In addition to long-sleeves, you can try the three-quarter length sleeve, which ends anywhere from just below your elbow to the middle of your lower arm, showing off just the thin part of your arm. They’re a classic, as well as a perfect way to keep cool in the warmer months.

The bell sleeve is another option. This sleeve gets wider and bells out toward your wrist. Just like flared jeans draw attention to your lower leg, this sleeve draws attention to your lower arm. If you’re self-conscious about your upper arms, bell sleeves flatter you and make a style statement at the same time. Figure 9-9 shows the long, three-quarter, and bell sleeves.

Figure 9-9: Sleeves that cover your arms.

The extended-shoulder and princess sleeves (see Figure 9-10) are all about shoulders and femininity. The extended-shoulder is an unstructured look that softens the appearance of broad shoulders (because there’s no definition to where the shoulder ends and the arm begins). The princess sleeve has a puffy shoulder, a style that also softens the appearance of the shoulder area and gives the top some style.

Figure 9-10: Sleeves that soften the appearance of broad shoulders.

Shapes

The manner in which a blouse covers the upper half of your body is deter- mined by its shape. In addition to length, here are some features that can alter the shape of a blouse (see Figure 9-11):

✓ Darts: Darts make a blouse more fitted and structured. If you have a thin midsection and you want to show it off, a darted blouse accentuates this area.

✓ Peasant or camp style with front and back yokes: This shape is a looser, unstructured cut, with more material around the midsection. It’s soft and feminine and hides your midsection because it just drapes around it.

✓ Shirred waist: A shirred waist is gathered at the waist line. This look is great if you have a thin waist and want to draw the attention there.

✓ Straight hem meant not to be tucked in: This shape is cut straight down, so it doesn’t accentuate your waistline, nor does it hug too tightly. If you are larger in the middle, this cut works for you because it doesn’t look too tight but still shows that you have some shape.

Cute as a button

Most blouses have buttons that go all the way down the front or have several in the back near the neck to make the garment easier to put on and take off. Buttons in the front, back, or none at all are style choices you make when buying a top. In addition to providing a utilitarian or

decorative purpose, buttons can clue you in on the quality of the blouse. The opening down the front is called the placket. If the stitching on the placket looks weak, or the stitches are far apart, then the garment is not top quality.

 

Figure 9-11: A variety of shapes.

Length is another factor that determines shape. If you have a narrow waist, you can show it off by wearing a shorter length blouse. If you prefer to camouflage your waistline in order to appear longer and leaner, then a longer length may be better.

A word about sweaters

Sweaters are tops made from knit material which, when used as a top and not an over-garment to add warmth, are generally tighter fitting and typically don’t have collars. Sweaters that have buttons down the front are called cardigans. Others are pullovers, because you pull them on over your head (duh!), which is possible because their knitted material is more stretchy.

✓ Fitted sweaters: Fitted sweaters are generally on the simpler side and typically worn alone or over a very thin layer. They can be made from everything from cotton to cashmere, and they come with a variety of necklines: round, V-neck, or turtleneck. They’re usually solid in color and are great to wear with jeans, corduroys, slacks, or even with a skirt. You can dress them up or down, depending on what you pair them with. Fitted sweaters show off your torso. If you want to show off your midsection, these sweaters are right for you.

✓ Chunky sweaters: Chunky sweaters tend to be very casual (they’re best paired with jeans or cords) and, for this reason, they aren’t really for work. If you’re on the heavier side, a chunky sweater makes you look even larger. If you’re on the petite side, a chunky sweater can over- whelm you.

✓ Fancy sweaters: If you want to wear a sweater out at night or to someplace dressier, look for one with adornments. Fancy sweaters are especially appropriate and readily available around the holidays. Many sweaters are decorated with sequins, paillettes, or rhinestones, which make them dressier and more appropriate for evening wear.

Sweaters by nature are clingy and show off your curves. If you are at all self- conscious about this, sweaters on their own may not be the right look for you. Try putting a fitted sweater under a blazer or layer a sweater over a blouse so that it doesn’t cling as tightly.

Skirts and Dresses

Nothing is better than wearing a dress to work (or out!) that fits your body perfectly. Some women say that slipping on a dress is easy because there is very little thinking to do; just accessorize and go!

Dress styles

I wear dresses to the beach and to black-tie affairs. Dresses were once considered formal, but now you can pretty much get away with a dress anywhere, anytime. When choosing the right piece to wear, you must ask yourself many different questions regarding length, style, and what you want your overall look to be. You must make many choices before determining the perfect dress for any occasion.

✓ A-line: An A-line dress (see Figure 9-12) is fitted at the waist and flares out from the waist down. This style looks good on everyone. It’s especially good for camouflaging your hips and thighs, so if you’re a pear shape or just want to hide this area, the A-line is the perfect choice.

✓ Babydoll: Short, flouncy, and with an empire waist (see Figure 9-12), a babydoll dress may look more like a negligee than a dress. Even though the neckline is usually more round than plunging, it is sexy. The empire waist on this style camouflages your midsection by loosely draping over that whole area. If you’re trying to cover your tummy, a babydoll dress will work for you. If you’re apple shaped, be careful. The empire waist accentuates your bust and upper body, causing you to look even more top-heavy. This style is best for tall, thin types and tends to look very youthful, so take your age into account if you try to pull this off.

✓ Cocktail dress: The cocktail dress encompasses many styles (including the little black dress) and is appropriate at almost every occasion (see Figure 9-13). You can dress it up or down with the help of accessories. Cocktail dresses are generally around knee length — unless, of course, they’re tea length, which means they end mid-calf. They can be sleeve- less, strapless, or have sleeves long or short. Because there are so many styles, you can easily find one that’s right for your body type.

✓ Empire dress: The waist of this style of dress is set above the natural waistline, often just below the bust (see Figure 9-13). Similar to the babydoll dress, the empire dress can be any length and doesn’t have to be flouncy. This type of waist is good for someone with a smaller bust because it accentuates that area. It also takes your true waistline com- pletely out of the picture. So if you have issues with your tummy, waist, hips, or anywhere below the bust line, this dress hides all that for you.

Figure 9-12: From left: A-line and babydoll.

✓ Evening gown: For formal, black-tie occasions, most evening gowns are floor length (see Figure 9-13). Because they’re not exclusive to one body type, anyone should be able to find an evening gown that flatters her body type. You just need to follow the body type rules and find one

that works for you. Evening gowns can be very simple or have embellishments like lace or beading. It’s really about personal style. My favorite evening gown is strapless, black, and simple.

Figure 9-13: From left: Cocktail, empire, and evening gown.

✓ Jumper: A jumper is a sleeveless dress designed to be worn over a blouse, T-shirt, or sweater (see Figure 9-14). Jumpers can vary in length, but most hit right at the knee, and they’re often paired with pumps or high boots. This cut is pretty straight so anyone can wear it.

✓ Mini: Any dress that stops 2 or more inches above the knees qualifies as a mini, shown in Figure 9-14, though the actual style can vary from a sheath to a shift. Micro-minis are even shorter. The mini is best for someone — apples, this usually means you — with thin legs. Regardless of your shape, if you’ve got great legs, show them off. Keep in mind, though, that the mini is a youthful look.

✓ Maxi: The maxi was a counterpoint to the mini, bringing hemlines down after they’d crept up. A maxi, shown in Figure 9-14, is a full-length dress and works for those who want to cover up their bottom half. It also gives you the appearance of being longer and leaner because of the one, long line of material.

✓ Sheath: A sheath dress, shown in Figure 9-15, is very fitted (so it shows off your curves) but has no waist, thus creating a long line that has a slimming effect. Sheaths are usually sleeveless. If you’d prefer not to expose your arms, this dress style isn’t right for you.

Figure 9-14: From left: Jumper, mini, and maxi.

✓ Shift: A shift is a straight-cut dress with no waist (see Figure 9-15). Shifts are a great choice for those who don’t want something as fitted as a sheath but still want to wear a flattering dress. Again, because the dress has no waist, it creates a long, lean line in the torso; it’s a good style for every body type.

✓ Wrap: A wrap dress, shown in Figure 9-15, wraps around your body and closes in the front. Diane Von Furstenberg made the wrap dress famous back in the 1970s. These dresses are classic and flatter every body type because they accentuate the neckline, and the line where it wraps creates a long appearance. You can also wrap the dress so that it’s just the right fit — not too tight or too loose — which also is more flattering.

Figure 9-15: From left: Sheath, shift, and wrap.

Skirts

The advantage that skirts and blouses have over dresses is that you can mix and match them to get many different looks. Take a bold, fun-patterned skirt, for example, and match it with a plain white T-shirt for a chic look, or pair a beautiful silk blouse with a pencil skirt and be ready to go. It’s all about how you mix and match.

If you’re like most women, you like certain parts of your body more than others. Because women have so many likes and dislikes, designers have created a plethora of skirt styles to fit any body type. The trick is (again) knowing what your best parts are, highlighting them, and choosing with confidence clothing that works best on you. Take skirt length, for example.

If your legs are skinny, you want to wear skirts that have hemlines ending at the widest part of your leg (your thighs) — in other words, miniskirts. This doesn’t mean you can’t wear other types of skirts; instead it means that a mini looks great on you. If, on the other hand, your legs are heavier, your hemline should hit the skinniest part of your leg, which is most likely somewhere below the knee, possibly even below the calf.

In addition to skirt length, you have skirt style to consider. Here are some of the most popular varieties:

✓ A-line: A-line skirts are snug at the waist, barely touch your hips and thighs, and widen as they approach the hem (see Figure 9-16). Usually their length is below the knee. They’re a good look for pear-shaped women who are heavier in the hips and thighs and not flattering to women without much of a derriere. However, a large pattern can make an A-line more suitable for thin women.

✓ Flared: A flared skirt is an A-line with more material so that it swings and swishes about your lower legs as you walk, adding to the slimming effect (see Figure 9-16). A flare with an uneven hem, especially in a light- weight fabric like chiffon, draws the eye away from your hips even more.

✓ Circle or peasant skirt: With lots of material, these skirts hide everything! They’re full length and very loose and drapey, as shown in Figure 9-16, so you really can’t see any shape underneath. So girls, whether you want to appear larger or smaller, this skirt does the trick!

Figure 9-16: From left: A-line, flared, and circle skirts.

✓ Straight skirt: In a straight skirt, the material falls straight from the hip (see Figure 9-17). Larger women should have more length in their straight skirts, while thinner women look better if the skirt is shorter.

If you’re tall, you can pretty much get away with a straight skirt being long or short, but if you’re shorter, showing more leg makes you appear taller. If you want to show off your curves, choose a straight skirt in a material that clings, like satin. Vertical details on the skirt, such as pin- stripes or stitching, can add to the slimming effect.

✓ Pencil skirt: Like the straight skirt, the pencil skirt’s material falls from the hip but is more fitted to the body to emphasize the hips (see Figure 9-17). These skirts aren’t ideal for those who need camouflage. If you have small hips, a high waist makes you appear more curvy. Generally pencil skirts are knee length, but the shorter your torso, the shorter the skirt should be to add length to your legs. Normally pencil skirts are plain and monochromatic.

✓ Tube skirt: The tube skirt is like the pencil skirt but longer, sometimes all the way to the ankle (see Figure 9-17). In fact, the only way you can walk in a tube skirt is if the skirt has a slit. This isn’t an easy look for most women to pull off because it is very fitted and clingy and shows everything on your lower half except for skin. Not to worry though, you don’t see many of these skirts around!

✓  Wrap skirt: A wrap skirt, shown in Figure 9-17, can be long or short. If you get one that’s the right length to flatter your legs, this type of skirt can look good on any body type. Like the wrap dress, you can adjust it to fit you perfectly.

Figure 9-17: From left: Straight, pencil, tube, and wrap skirts.

Slacks

Many women think skirts are sexier than pants. Are they? The answer is, not always. Although a great pencil skirt can show off your curves and give you a sophisticated, classic look, the right pair of slacks can do the same thing. Find out how to choose your pants wisely in this section.

Length

The most distinguishing aspect of slacks, besides the material (discussed in the later section “Pant material”), is length. Women have the choice between pants that are full length, ankle length, or capri style, which can reach anywhere from the calf almost all the way to the knee, where they actually infringe on the territory claimed by shorts.

Pant length is measured not from the top of the waist, but from the bottom of the crotch to the bottom of the pants leg. This measurement is called your inseam. It’s hard to measure your inseam yourself, but if you get help and keep it noted somewhere, it can be a very helpful measurement to know when buying slacks. (For information on other key measurements, refer to Chapter 3.)

The zakkerz

Are you one of those women who wear flats to work and then change to heels when you get there? How many times have you worn a pair of pants and ruined the bottom of them because they are just too long for flats? Well, I have found the invention for you! The zakkerz (www. zakkerz.com) is an item that you use to temporarily hem your pants without using stitches! To use the zakkerz, follow these steps (it works, trust me!):

1 . Roll pant leg up to desired length .

2 . Wrap the zakkerz around the bottom of pant, with one end of zakkerz inside the pant leg and other end outside pant leg .

The magnets bring the two ends of the zakkerz together and hold the roll-up in place.

©Zakkerz, Inc. www.zakkerz.com

In determining the best length, keep these things in mind:

✓ The type of shoes you’re wearing: The biggest problem women have with pant length is that their height changes depending on the shoes they wear. If your pants are full length, you always want them to hit the top of your shoe or foot, if you’re wearing a sandal (see Figure 9-18).

Figure 9-18: The correct hem length.

✓ The area you want to highlight (for capris or pedal pushers): Pedal pushers or capri pants are supposed to be short. But exactly where they fall can change your appearance. Ideally you want to show your legs off to their best advantage. If your legs are thin, your capris should end at your widest part, the middle of your calf, which adds breadth to your leg. If your legs are heavy, your capris should end just below the calf in order to highlight the thinnest part of your lower leg.

Pant rise

The rise of a pair of slacks is the distance between the crotch and the waist. Depending on your size, the rise for a normal pair of pants is usually around 10 or 11 inches. Low-rise pants (which have waists below the normal waist line) and high-waisted pants (which have rises higher than the normal waist line) have different rise lengths.

When you consider rise, don’t be unduly swayed by the current fashion (such as when low-rise pants are all the rage). Instead, consider what looks good on your body type:

✓ Short- versus long-waisted: If you’re a short-waisted person, you generally look better in a low-rise pair of pants, because they make your torso look longer. If you’re long-waisted, a low-rise extends your torso even further — probably not what you want.

✓ Apple versus pear: Low-rise pants show off more of the belly. So the more belly you have (if you’re an apple shape), the less appropriate a low-rise is for your shape because your goal is to minimize your midsection. (If low-rise is more comfortable for you to wear because it’s less binding around the middle, by all means wear low-rise pants. Just make sure you wear a long top and/or jacket to cover and elongate the area.) If you’re a pear and have a slim waist, you can wear low- or high-rise pants. Both accentuate your thin waist.

Pant legs

In addition to the height of the hem, the shape of the leg is also very important in determining what kind of pants look good on you (see Figure 9-19).

✓ Straight leg: A straight leg drops straight down from its widest point, which is the part that touches the hips. This look is flattering for every body type. The straight line doesn’t accentuate the top or the bottom of the leg, nor does it attract the eye to any particular area.

Figure 9-19: A variety of pant legs.

✓ Tapered: Tapered pants have a slight narrowing below the hips, all the way down to the ankle. Skinny pants are a style of tapered pants. The difference is that they hug your legs from top to bottom. These pants are better for those with skinny legs because they draw the focus to the legs, but because the pant leg gets narrower at the bottom, it accentuates the waist. If you don’t want to accentuate your hips or waist area, avoid this style.

✓ Flared: Flared-leg pants widen toward the bottom. A slight flare is called a boot cut, meaning you can fit a tall boot under your pants. When the flare is extreme, it’s called a bell bottom. This style is great if you’re hippy or bigger in the waist area, because the flare draws attention to the lower leg. The width of the flare balances out the waistline and minimizes its appearance.

✓ Stirrup: These pants have a piece of elastic that extends under the foot. Originally for people who rode horses (the stirrup stops the pant leg from riding up), stirrup pants are also used in other sports, like skiing, where the same thing may happen.

✓ Cargo pants: These pants are especially popular as an alternative to jeans. Although traditionally they’re not very dressy and are best meant for play time, some versions have been made in dressier materials and can be worn as such. Cargo pants have pockets on the side of the legs and are best suited for women with skinny legs, because the pockets tend to make you look wider.

Pant material

Pants can be made from any material, but certain materials have become closely associated with pants more than tops, mostly because of their durability. Pants get more wear and tear than tops, so they need to be able to stand up to all the activity.

Denim

The most ubiquitous pant material is denim, particularly blue denim. Blue jeans, originally made by Levi Strauss in the 19th century, started out as work pants and the material was made as sturdy as possible so that it would last. In the 1960s, jeans became part of the uniform of young people and then morphed into a piece of apparel that was worn by everyone.

Jeans have their own look, and people of every size and shape wear them. They are a great staple, and so many styles are available that you can definitely find a pair that suits your body type and flatters your figure. Styles include

low-waisted, high-waisted, straight leg, skinny leg, flared leg — just make sure you get the right size (measured by waist size and inseam length) and choose the style that suits you. Jeans tend to be form-fitting and show off your legs. If that’s not what you want, you probably won’t choose jeans for every occasion. Most people, though, feel comfortable in them. Even if your jeans are for casual wear only, having a pair that fits you really well is a good idea.

If you’re going to go with only one pair of jeans for the season, pick a pair of dark denim, boot cut jeans. Dark denim is the most versatile kind, and boot cut is a safe choice because it fits most women and can go with most looks.

Khakis

Khakis, or chinos, are made from a yellowish brown cotton twill fabric (refer to Chapter 4 for information on twill and other types of weaves). Khaki pants can range in color from olive green to a light tan. Like jeans, khakis have become a separate entity unto themselves. They’re very preppy and can be worn to informal occasions and also to work. The same rules apply to khakis as to any other slacks: Choose a style that works for your body type.

Eliminating Fashion Confusion

In This Chapter

▶ Fashion consultants and what they can do for you

▶ Using the services of a personal shopper

▶ How fashion magazines, Webzines, and TV programs can help

Keeping up with fashion is a full time job and you probably already have at least two of those! Luckily there are people who earn their living by keeping track of what Paris, New York, and Milan are producing, and in this chapter I show you who the best ones are and how to make use of their skills.

Calling In the Pros

Most professionals don’t perform their respective service on themselves. Obviously there are many procedures that doctors or dentists couldn’t do for themselves even if they wanted to, but even most lawyers seek outside counsel if they run into a legal problem. And the reason is that when it comes to a personal problem, your emotions can get in the way of your reasoning ability and cause you to make mistakes. (How many women hang onto their long hair when in fact they’d look far better with a shorter haircut? Check out the “Ambush Makeovers” I do every Friday on Today, and you’ll know the answer is “Too many!”).

The point? When it comes to creating (or refining) your style, you can probably use a professional fashion expert. If you tend to look like the woman in Figure 8-1 when you try to get dressed up, maybe the time has come for you to consult with an expert. Fortunately, you have a few options to get the help you need.

The following sections describe what fashion consultants and personal shoppers do and explain where you can get help even if you’re shopping online. To find out how fashion media can help, head to the later section “Fashion Media: Where to Look for Fashion and Style Help.”

There are two basic services a professional fashion expert can offer:

✓ Teaching you how to dress in general, using the clothes you have and/or adding to your wardrobe

✓ Selecting what you need to wear for a particular event, which usually means going out to shop for you

In many cases, one person does both, but because you can hire a professional to do one or the other, you have to let them know what services you require.

Figure 8-1: Don’t know which pieces work together and which don’t? Time to call in the pros.

Using a professional consultant

If you have some money in your budget to spare, hiring a fashion consultant may be the route for you.When you pay for something, you tend to put more importance on it. If a friend tells you to stop wearing so much black, you may not heed her advice, but if a trained professional whom you’re paying tells you the same thing, you are more likely to listen up! (The woman who wrote this book with us, Dana Ravich, is actually my consultant whenever I have a question about something!)

There are distinctions between a fashion consultant and a fashion stylist. A fashion consultant generally works with private clients, while a fashion stylist generally works doing photo shoots for magazines, television, and so on.

What a consultant does

A fashion consultant is going to look at you, ask you questions about your lifestyle, examine your closets and tell you what to keep and what to get rid of, and push you in the right direction when it comes to the way you dress. She may also put together outfits with items already in your current wardrobe (see Figure 8-2). And if you choose to take it further and decide to spend the money to add more items to your wardrobe, then the consultant will actually take you shopping. Or the consultant may go to the stores on her own, pick out several items, and then bring them to you — a more practical option if you need help with a specific event and not an overhaul of your whole wardrobe. Either way, if shopping is involved, in addition to the cost of the consultant, you’ll also be spending money on items for a new wardrobe.

Figure 8-2: A fashion consultant helps you put the pieces of your fashion puzzle together.

Selecting a consultant

The best way to find a fashion consultant is by personal referral. You could look in the phone book, or go online to a Web site like www.fashion-411. com, but before you put your image in somebody else’s hands, you want to make sure they know what they’re doing. If none of your friends or family has ever used a fashion consultant, ask the owners of any boutiques in your area. They should be a reliable source.

When you’ve narrowed down the field, ask the two or three you like best to provide you with referrals and call them.

Before you choose any fashion consultant, do the following:

✓ Get a referral. Since referrals tend to be satisfied customers, you can’t expect to get very many negative reviews. But ask the referrals how this consultant operated: Did she ask a lot of questions about their likes and dislikes, or was she dictatorial? You may be happy to just put yourself into someone’s hands, but if not, you’d better know ahead of time. Also find out whether the store owners they visited knew the consultant well. Finally, ask questions to find out whether she was very busy: Did she leave the minute the time was up to go meet another client? (This could be a good sign, because it means she’s talented, but it may also mean that you could become like Cinderella when the clock strikes midnight.)

✓ Have a consultation with the person you’re considering. Check out the consultant’s style. Is her personal style one you’d like to emulate? When you speak to her, does she understand your lifestyle and your personality? Even if your goal is not to look exactly like a professional fashion stylist, you should still expect to get help defining a style that works for you. You should also ask the consultant what her background is to get an idea of her level of experience.

What you can expect to pay

The cost of a consultant varies according to where you live (consultants in small towns usually charge less than those in big cities) and the consultant’s experience. The consultant will charge in one of two ways:

✓ By the hour: Most consultants charge this way. The hourly fee can range from $50 to $300 per hour, and usually a minimum of three hours is required. At the mid-level price range (about $150 an hour), your mini- mum cost is going to be $450. (And that doesn’t include the cost of the clothes!)

✓ Day or half-day rate: Stylists who charge this way, charge you a flat fee for the day.

In addition to the consultation rate, some consultants get a commission from the stores they take clients to. Some simply pocket that commission (and may push you to buy more clothes in order to fatten their wallets), while others offer you that percentage as a discount for your purchases. While the second option may sound like it’s more to your advantage, if the consultant charges a higher hourly fee, it may not be.

Using a department store’s personal shopper

Many major department stores allow you to come into the store and work with a personal shopper for free (ah, yes, I said free!) Saks Fifth Avenue for example, has the Fifth Avenue Club. You just call, make an appointment, give your sizes, and when you show up to shop, there’s a room with all of your desired looks waiting for you! There is no minimum amount you need to spend and no fee; you just need to make an appointment. Call your favorite store to see whether it offers this service. Other department stores that have personal shoppers include Macy’s (Macy’s By Appointment), Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, Belk, and J.Crew.

You’re also likely to find a personal shopper in the smaller department stores in only one or two cities. These stores offer this service as a way to stay competitive with the larger chains. However, you won’t find personal shoppers at lower-price stores, such as Target of Kohl’s, because the prices are already so low, they don’t offer this additional service.

If you use a personal shopper, keep the following things in mind:

✓ Using a personal shopper can be a time saver. If you pick something out that doesn’t fit you, the shopper will go back to the floor to get the right size. And if she knows her merchandise, once she sees something on you and realizes why it works (or doesn’t), she’ll be able to get you other items to try that should work on your body.

✓ While a personal shopper is there to sell clothes, the stores recognize that if a personal shopper is too pushy, she’ll turn away customers rather than make sales. So for the most part, your personal shopper will be as helpful as possible without seeming overbearing (though remember, she does get paid a commission).

✓ If you’re going to ask the advice of a professional, be willing to accept at least some of it. If you walk out of a store with shopping bags full of clothes that you would have bought without anyone helping you, there’s no point in using a consultant of any kind. You have to be willing to trust this person to take you out of your comfort zone. Just make sure every- thing you buy is returnable. That way you can afford to be a bit more daring when you shop.

✓ It’s always wise to call ahead to make an appointment. You may go into a store and find that one of the personal shoppers has an opening, but they’re usually busy.

✓ Since either a consultant or personal shopper is going to be right there in the dressing room with you, make sure that you’re wearing underwear that you don’t mind being seen in.

Fashion Media: Where to Look for Fashion and Style Help

The fashion media may not create styles, but if they decide to blow their collective horns about a particular designer, you can be sure that very soon people everywhere will be wearing that designer’s creations (for a more in-depth look at the role the fashion media play in setting a trend, head to Chapter 6).

Print and online media

The Grande Dame of fashion media is certainly Vogue. Begun in 1892, Vogue’s current editor is Anna Wintour. While she’s known for having her own style, a famous bob haircut (which she adopted at the age of 15 and never changed), and ubiquitous sunglasses, as an editor she’s actually very much for change, always championing young, new designers. And while Vogue gives expanded coverage to designer wear, in a televised interview with Barbara Walters, Wintour admitted that “Jeans and T-shirts can be equally fashionable as an Oscar de la Renta ball gown.” Figure 8-3 proves her point.

But any fashion magazine can help you when you’re trying to figure out the current trends and, more importantly, what looks work for you. Buy one or two fashion mags a month, and check out the Web sites of the others, and you’ll definitely be au courant (up to the minute!).

Many of the weekly magazines we all love to read also offer the hottest trends (admit it, you love to see what your favorite celeb is doing!). I work with Us Weekly, and every week you can find great buys and finds at every price point. To broaden your knowledge, check out some of these sources:

✓ Women’s Wear Daily is the fashion

industry’s daily newspaper. Much of

the information is on the business of fashion, which may interest you or not. While you may not want to pay to receive either the paper copy or get

access to the full Web site, there’s plenty of good information (including photos from the latest fashion shows) that anyone can access at www.WWD.com.

✓ Burda is the world’s best-selling magazine for those who sew their own clothes. But even if you can’t sew on a button, there’s a lot of good information within the magazine’s pages, or on its Web site (www.burdafashion.com). For example, you can learn a lot about fabrics through Burda, knowledge that will serve you well when checking out the clothes on the racks of your favorite stores.

✓ Figure, which bills itself as being for “Real Women,” is for larger women. It includes lots of tips on how to dress if you’re a size 14 and above.

✓ More Magazine is for women over 40. The magazine covers fashion along with many other areas of interest.

✓ MaternityandStyle.com is a good place to get ideas if you’re expecting.

✓ Magazines from other countries: You can learn a lot by checking out magazines from other countries. Some will be in English, such as Canada’s Flare, while others may be in a language you don’t understand, but because fashion is a visual medium, you may still get some ideas, especially from the French magazines, such as Jalouse, L’Officiel, and Madame Figaro, since many styles originate there before crossing the Atlantic.

Figure 8-3: Chic can mean jeans and a T-shirt as long as it’s the right jeans and T-shirt!

There are also magazines that don’t have a paper version but are strictly electronic. Among the top Webzines for those interested in fashion are Hintmag.com, Fashion156.com, Glossmag. ca (which is a Canadian company), Unvogue.com, and Glam.com. Like their paper cousins, Webzines cover more than just fashion, but unlike them, you can find videos from the latest fashion shows and any late-breaking fashion news long before the print magazines can cover it. (Many of the women’s magazines have deadlines of three to six months, meaning the stories have to be written that far ahead of time in order to make it into the magazine.)

TV goes high fashion

Though fashion was never off the radar of women, in recent years, it’s been even more in your face with the advent of a multitude of television shows.

It began with Queer Eye for the Straight Guy and exploded into more reality shows covering every aspect of the fashion business, and turning models and fashion professors into superstars overnight.

Many reality shows are centered around fashion. Here are a couple of my favorites:

✓ The Fashion Show (Bravo) will keep you glued to the TV. Fifteen professional designers compete in this series for a chance to have their creations sold in the retail market. Over $100,000 is also at stake! Designer Isaac Mizrahi and Grammy Award-winning performer and actress Kelly Rowland run the show. You really get to see what goes into the making of a clothing line.

✓ What Not to Wear (TLC) is also extremely entertaining and informative. The show teaches women how to find their personal style. Hosts Stacy London and Clinton Kelly take someone who dresses frumpy and give her a fabulous new look.

While some of these shows are more educational than others in that they focus on teaching you about how to dress, they’re all fun. If you enjoy watching them, go ahead. (Just don’t watch them instead of my fashion pieces on Today!)

Eliminating Fashion Confusion

In This Chapter

▶ Fashion consultants and what they can do for you

▶ Using the services of a personal shopper

▶ How fashion magazines, Webzines, and TV programs can help

Keeping up with fashion is a full time job and you probably already have at least two of those! Luckily there are people who earn their living by keeping track of what Paris, New York, and Milan are producing, and in this chapter I show you who the best ones are and how to make use of their skills.

Calling In the Pros

Most professionals don’t perform their respective service on themselves. Obviously there are many procedures that doctors or dentists couldn’t do for themselves even if they wanted to, but even most lawyers seek outside counsel if they run into a legal problem. And the reason is that when it comes to a personal problem, your emotions can get in the way of your reasoning ability and cause you to make mistakes. (How many women hang onto their long hair when in fact they’d look far better with a shorter haircut? Check out the “Ambush Makeovers” I do every Friday on Today, and you’ll know the answer is “Too many!”).

The point? When it comes to creating (or refining) your style, you can probably use a professional fashion expert. If you tend to look like the woman in Figure 8-1 when you try to get dressed up, maybe the time has come for you to consult with an expert. Fortunately, you have a few options to get the help you need.

The following sections describe what fashion consultants and personal shoppers do and explain where you can get help even if you’re shopping online. To find out how fashion media can help, head to the later section “Fashion Media: Where to Look for Fashion and Style Help.”

There are two basic services a professional fashion expert can offer:

✓ Teaching you how to dress in general, using the clothes you have and/or adding to your wardrobe

✓ Selecting what you need to wear for a particular event, which usually means going out to shop for you

In many cases, one person does both, but because you can hire a professional to do one or the other, you have to let them know what services you require.

Figure 8-1: Don’t know which pieces work together and which don’t? Time to call in the pros.

Using a professional consultant

If you have some money in your budget to spare, hiring a fashion consultant may be the route for you.When you pay for something, you tend to put more importance on it. If a friend tells you to stop wearing so much black, you may not heed her advice, but if a trained professional whom you’re paying tells you the same thing, you are more likely to listen up! (The woman who wrote this book with us, Dana Ravich, is actually my consultant whenever I have a question about something!)

There are distinctions between a fashion consultant and a fashion stylist. A fashion consultant generally works with private clients, while a fashion stylist generally works doing photo shoots for magazines, television, and so on.

What a consultant does

A fashion consultant is going to look at you, ask you questions about your lifestyle, examine your closets and tell you what to keep and what to get rid of, and push you in the right direction when it comes to the way you dress. She may also put together outfits with items already in your current wardrobe (see Figure 8-2). And if you choose to take it further and decide to spend the money to add more items to your wardrobe, then the consultant will actually take you shopping. Or the consultant may go to the stores on her own, pick out several items, and then bring them to you — a more practical option if you need help with a specific event and not an overhaul of your whole wardrobe. Either way, if shopping is involved, in addition to the cost of the consultant, you’ll also be spending money on items for a new wardrobe.

Figure 8-2: A fashion consultant helps you put the pieces of your fashion puzzle together.

Selecting a consultant

The best way to find a fashion consultant is by personal referral. You could look in the phone book, or go online to a Web site like www.fashion-411. com, but before you put your image in somebody else’s hands, you want to make sure they know what they’re doing. If none of your friends or family has ever used a fashion consultant, ask the owners of any boutiques in your area. They should be a reliable source.

When you’ve narrowed down the field, ask the two or three you like best to provide you with referrals and call them.

Before you choose any fashion consultant, do the following:

✓ Get a referral. Since referrals tend to be satisfied customers, you can’t expect to get very many negative reviews. But ask the referrals how this consultant operated: Did she ask a lot of questions about their likes and dislikes, or was she dictatorial? You may be happy to just put yourself into someone’s hands, but if not, you’d better know ahead of time. Also find out whether the store owners they visited knew the consultant well. Finally, ask questions to find out whether she was very busy: Did she leave the minute the time was up to go meet another client? (This could be a good sign, because it means she’s talented, but it may also mean that you could become like Cinderella when the clock strikes midnight.)

✓ Have a consultation with the person you’re considering. Check out the consultant’s style. Is her personal style one you’d like to emulate? When you speak to her, does she understand your lifestyle and your personality? Even if your goal is not to look exactly like a professional fashion stylist, you should still expect to get help defining a style that works for you. You should also ask the consultant what her background is to get an idea of her level of experience.

What you can expect to pay

The cost of a consultant varies according to where you live (consultants in small towns usually charge less than those in big cities) and the consultant’s experience. The consultant will charge in one of two ways:

✓ By the hour: Most consultants charge this way. The hourly fee can range from $50 to $300 per hour, and usually a minimum of three hours is required. At the mid-level price range (about $150 an hour), your mini- mum cost is going to be $450. (And that doesn’t include the cost of the clothes!)

✓ Day or half-day rate: Stylists who charge this way, charge you a flat fee for the day.

In addition to the consultation rate, some consultants get a commission from the stores they take clients to. Some simply pocket that commission (and may push you to buy more clothes in order to fatten their wallets), while others offer you that percentage as a discount for your purchases. While the second option may sound like it’s more to your advantage, if the consultant charges a higher hourly fee, it may not be.

Using a department store’s personal shopper

Many major department stores allow you to come into the store and work with a personal shopper for free (ah, yes, I said free!) Saks Fifth Avenue for example, has the Fifth Avenue Club. You just call, make an appointment, give your sizes, and when you show up to shop, there’s a room with all of your desired looks waiting for you! There is no minimum amount you need to spend and no fee; you just need to make an appointment. Call your favorite store to see whether it offers this service. Other department stores that have personal shoppers include Macy’s (Macy’s By Appointment), Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, Belk, and J.Crew.

You’re also likely to find a personal shopper in the smaller department stores in only one or two cities. These stores offer this service as a way to stay competitive with the larger chains. However, you won’t find personal shoppers at lower-price stores, such as Target of Kohl’s, because the prices are already so low, they don’t offer this additional service.

If you use a personal shopper, keep the following things in mind:

✓ Using a personal shopper can be a time saver. If you pick something out that doesn’t fit you, the shopper will go back to the floor to get the right size. And if she knows her merchandise, once she sees something on you and realizes why it works (or doesn’t), she’ll be able to get you other items to try that should work on your body.

✓ While a personal shopper is there to sell clothes, the stores recognize that if a personal shopper is too pushy, she’ll turn away customers rather than make sales. So for the most part, your personal shopper will be as helpful as possible without seeming overbearing (though remember, she does get paid a commission).

✓ If you’re going to ask the advice of a professional, be willing to accept at least some of it. If you walk out of a store with shopping bags full of clothes that you would have bought without anyone helping you, there’s no point in using a consultant of any kind. You have to be willing to trust this person to take you out of your comfort zone. Just make sure every- thing you buy is returnable. That way you can afford to be a bit more daring when you shop.

✓ It’s always wise to call ahead to make an appointment. You may go into a store and find that one of the personal shoppers has an opening, but they’re usually busy.

✓ Since either a consultant or personal shopper is going to be right there in the dressing room with you, make sure that you’re wearing underwear that you don’t mind being seen in.

Fashion Media: Where to Look for Fashion and Style Help

The fashion media may not create styles, but if they decide to blow their collective horns about a particular designer, you can be sure that very soon people everywhere will be wearing that designer’s creations (for a more in-depth look at the role the fashion media play in setting a trend, head to Chapter 6).

Print and online media

The Grande Dame of fashion media is certainly Vogue. Begun in 1892, Vogue’s current editor is Anna Wintour. While she’s known for having her own style, a famous bob haircut (which she adopted at the age of 15 and never changed), and ubiquitous sunglasses, as an editor she’s actually very much for change, always championing young, new designers. And while Vogue gives expanded coverage to designer wear, in a televised interview with Barbara Walters, Wintour admitted that “Jeans and T-shirts can be equally fashionable as an Oscar de la Renta ball gown.” Figure 8-3 proves her point.

But any fashion magazine can help you when you’re trying to figure out the current trends and, more importantly, what looks work for you. Buy one or two fashion mags a month, and check out the Web sites of the others, and you’ll definitely be au courant (up to the minute!).

Many of the weekly magazines we all love to read also offer the hottest trends (admit it, you love to see what your favorite celeb is doing!). I work with Us Weekly, and every week you can find great buys and finds at every price point. To broaden your knowledge, check out some of these sources:

✓ Women’s Wear Daily is the fashion

industry’s daily newspaper. Much of

the information is on the business of fashion, which may interest you or not. While you may not want to pay to receive either the paper copy or get

access to the full Web site, there’s plenty of good information (including photos from the latest fashion shows) that anyone can access at www.WWD.com.

✓ Burda is the world’s best-selling magazine for those who sew their own clothes. But even if you can’t sew on a button, there’s a lot of good information within the magazine’s pages, or on its Web site (www.burdafashion.com). For example, you can learn a lot about fabrics through Burda, knowledge that will serve you well when checking out the clothes on the racks of your favorite stores.

✓ Figure, which bills itself as being for “Real Women,” is for larger women. It includes lots of tips on how to dress if you’re a size 14 and above.

✓ More Magazine is for women over 40. The magazine covers fashion along with many other areas of interest.

✓ MaternityandStyle.com is a good place to get ideas if you’re expecting.

✓ Magazines from other countries: You can learn a lot by checking out magazines from other countries. Some will be in English, such as Canada’s Flare, while others may be in a language you don’t understand, but because fashion is a visual medium, you may still get some ideas, especially from the French magazines, such as Jalouse, L’Officiel, and Madame Figaro, since many styles originate there before crossing the Atlantic.

Figure 8-3: Chic can mean jeans and a T-shirt as long as it’s the right jeans and T-shirt!

There are also magazines that don’t have a paper version but are strictly electronic. Among the top Webzines for those interested in fashion are Hintmag.com, Fashion156.com, Glossmag. ca (which is a Canadian company), Unvogue.com, and Glam.com. Like their paper cousins, Webzines cover more than just fashion, but unlike them, you can find videos from the latest fashion shows and any late-breaking fashion news long before the print magazines can cover it. (Many of the women’s magazines have deadlines of three to six months, meaning the stories have to be written that far ahead of time in order to make it into the magazine.)

TV goes high fashion

Though fashion was never off the radar of women, in recent years, it’s been even more in your face with the advent of a multitude of television shows.

It began with Queer Eye for the Straight Guy and exploded into more reality shows covering every aspect of the fashion business, and turning models and fashion professors into superstars overnight.

Many reality shows are centered around fashion. Here are a couple of my favorites:

✓ The Fashion Show (Bravo) will keep you glued to the TV. Fifteen professional designers compete in this series for a chance to have their creations sold in the retail market. Over $100,000 is also at stake! Designer Isaac Mizrahi and Grammy Award-winning performer and actress Kelly Rowland run the show. You really get to see what goes into the making of a clothing line.

✓ What Not to Wear (TLC) is also extremely entertaining and informative. The show teaches women how to find their personal style. Hosts Stacy London and Clinton Kelly take someone who dresses frumpy and give her a fabulous new look.

While some of these shows are more educational than others in that they focus on teaching you about how to dress, they’re all fun. If you enjoy watching them, go ahead. (Just don’t watch them instead of my fashion pieces on Today!)

Eliminating Fashion Confusion

In This Chapter

▶ Fashion consultants and what they can do for you

▶ Using the services of a personal shopper

▶ How fashion magazines, Webzines, and TV programs can help

Keeping up with fashion is a full time job and you probably already have at least two of those! Luckily there are people who earn their living by keeping track of what Paris, New York, and Milan are producing, and in this chapter I show you who the best ones are and how to make use of their skills.

Calling In the Pros

Most professionals don’t perform their respective service on themselves. Obviously there are many procedures that doctors or dentists couldn’t do for themselves even if they wanted to, but even most lawyers seek outside counsel if they run into a legal problem. And the reason is that when it comes to a personal problem, your emotions can get in the way of your reasoning ability and cause you to make mistakes. (How many women hang onto their long hair when in fact they’d look far better with a shorter haircut? Check out the “Ambush Makeovers” I do every Friday on Today, and you’ll know the answer is “Too many!”).

The point? When it comes to creating (or refining) your style, you can probably use a professional fashion expert. If you tend to look like the woman in Figure 8-1 when you try to get dressed up, maybe the time has come for you to consult with an expert. Fortunately, you have a few options to get the help you need.

The following sections describe what fashion consultants and personal shoppers do and explain where you can get help even if you’re shopping online. To find out how fashion media can help, head to the later section “Fashion Media: Where to Look for Fashion and Style Help.”

There are two basic services a professional fashion expert can offer:

✓ Teaching you how to dress in general, using the clothes you have and/or adding to your wardrobe

✓ Selecting what you need to wear for a particular event, which usually means going out to shop for you

In many cases, one person does both, but because you can hire a professional to do one or the other, you have to let them know what services you require.

Figure 8-1: Don’t know which pieces work together and which don’t? Time to call in the pros.

Using a professional consultant

If you have some money in your budget to spare, hiring a fashion consultant may be the route for you.When you pay for something, you tend to put more importance on it. If a friend tells you to stop wearing so much black, you may not heed her advice, but if a trained professional whom you’re paying tells you the same thing, you are more likely to listen up! (The woman who wrote this book with us, Dana Ravich, is actually my consultant whenever I have a question about something!)

There are distinctions between a fashion consultant and a fashion stylist. A fashion consultant generally works with private clients, while a fashion stylist generally works doing photo shoots for magazines, television, and so on.

What a consultant does

A fashion consultant is going to look at you, ask you questions about your lifestyle, examine your closets and tell you what to keep and what to get rid of, and push you in the right direction when it comes to the way you dress. She may also put together outfits with items already in your current wardrobe (see Figure 8-2). And if you choose to take it further and decide to spend the money to add more items to your wardrobe, then the consultant will actually take you shopping. Or the consultant may go to the stores on her own, pick out several items, and then bring them to you — a more practical option if you need help with a specific event and not an overhaul of your whole wardrobe. Either way, if shopping is involved, in addition to the cost of the consultant, you’ll also be spending money on items for a new wardrobe.

Figure 8-2: A fashion consultant helps you put the pieces of your fashion puzzle together.

Selecting a consultant

The best way to find a fashion consultant is by personal referral. You could look in the phone book, or go online to a Web site like www.fashion-411. com, but before you put your image in somebody else’s hands, you want to make sure they know what they’re doing. If none of your friends or family has ever used a fashion consultant, ask the owners of any boutiques in your area. They should be a reliable source.

When you’ve narrowed down the field, ask the two or three you like best to provide you with referrals and call them.

Before you choose any fashion consultant, do the following:

✓ Get a referral. Since referrals tend to be satisfied customers, you can’t expect to get very many negative reviews. But ask the referrals how this consultant operated: Did she ask a lot of questions about their likes and dislikes, or was she dictatorial? You may be happy to just put yourself into someone’s hands, but if not, you’d better know ahead of time. Also find out whether the store owners they visited knew the consultant well. Finally, ask questions to find out whether she was very busy: Did she leave the minute the time was up to go meet another client? (This could be a good sign, because it means she’s talented, but it may also mean that you could become like Cinderella when the clock strikes midnight.)

✓ Have a consultation with the person you’re considering. Check out the consultant’s style. Is her personal style one you’d like to emulate? When you speak to her, does she understand your lifestyle and your personality? Even if your goal is not to look exactly like a professional fashion stylist, you should still expect to get help defining a style that works for you. You should also ask the consultant what her background is to get an idea of her level of experience.

What you can expect to pay

The cost of a consultant varies according to where you live (consultants in small towns usually charge less than those in big cities) and the consultant’s experience. The consultant will charge in one of two ways:

✓ By the hour: Most consultants charge this way. The hourly fee can range from $50 to $300 per hour, and usually a minimum of three hours is required. At the mid-level price range (about $150 an hour), your mini- mum cost is going to be $450. (And that doesn’t include the cost of the clothes!)

✓ Day or half-day rate: Stylists who charge this way, charge you a flat fee for the day.

In addition to the consultation rate, some consultants get a commission from the stores they take clients to. Some simply pocket that commission (and may push you to buy more clothes in order to fatten their wallets), while others offer you that percentage as a discount for your purchases. While the second option may sound like it’s more to your advantage, if the consultant charges a higher hourly fee, it may not be.

Using a department store’s personal shopper

Many major department stores allow you to come into the store and work with a personal shopper for free (ah, yes, I said free!) Saks Fifth Avenue for example, has the Fifth Avenue Club. You just call, make an appointment, give your sizes, and when you show up to shop, there’s a room with all of your desired looks waiting for you! There is no minimum amount you need to spend and no fee; you just need to make an appointment. Call your favorite store to see whether it offers this service. Other department stores that have personal shoppers include Macy’s (Macy’s By Appointment), Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, Belk, and J.Crew.

You’re also likely to find a personal shopper in the smaller department stores in only one or two cities. These stores offer this service as a way to stay competitive with the larger chains. However, you won’t find personal shoppers at lower-price stores, such as Target of Kohl’s, because the prices are already so low, they don’t offer this additional service.

If you use a personal shopper, keep the following things in mind:

✓ Using a personal shopper can be a time saver. If you pick something out that doesn’t fit you, the shopper will go back to the floor to get the right size. And if she knows her merchandise, once she sees something on you and realizes why it works (or doesn’t), she’ll be able to get you other items to try that should work on your body.

✓ While a personal shopper is there to sell clothes, the stores recognize that if a personal shopper is too pushy, she’ll turn away customers rather than make sales. So for the most part, your personal shopper will be as helpful as possible without seeming overbearing (though remember, she does get paid a commission).

✓ If you’re going to ask the advice of a professional, be willing to accept at least some of it. If you walk out of a store with shopping bags full of clothes that you would have bought without anyone helping you, there’s no point in using a consultant of any kind. You have to be willing to trust this person to take you out of your comfort zone. Just make sure every- thing you buy is returnable. That way you can afford to be a bit more daring when you shop.

✓ It’s always wise to call ahead to make an appointment. You may go into a store and find that one of the personal shoppers has an opening, but they’re usually busy.

✓ Since either a consultant or personal shopper is going to be right there in the dressing room with you, make sure that you’re wearing underwear that you don’t mind being seen in.

Fashion Media: Where to Look for Fashion and Style Help

The fashion media may not create styles, but if they decide to blow their collective horns about a particular designer, you can be sure that very soon people everywhere will be wearing that designer’s creations (for a more in-depth look at the role the fashion media play in setting a trend, head to Chapter 6).

Print and online media

The Grande Dame of fashion media is certainly Vogue. Begun in 1892, Vogue’s current editor is Anna Wintour. While she’s known for having her own style, a famous bob haircut (which she adopted at the age of 15 and never changed), and ubiquitous sunglasses, as an editor she’s actually very much for change, always championing young, new designers. And while Vogue gives expanded coverage to designer wear, in a televised interview with Barbara Walters, Wintour admitted that “Jeans and T-shirts can be equally fashionable as an Oscar de la Renta ball gown.” Figure 8-3 proves her point.

But any fashion magazine can help you when you’re trying to figure out the current trends and, more importantly, what looks work for you. Buy one or two fashion mags a month, and check out the Web sites of the others, and you’ll definitely be au courant (up to the minute!).

Many of the weekly magazines we all love to read also offer the hottest trends (admit it, you love to see what your favorite celeb is doing!). I work with Us Weekly, and every week you can find great buys and finds at every price point. To broaden your knowledge, check out some of these sources:

✓ Women’s Wear Daily is the fashion

industry’s daily newspaper. Much of

the information is on the business of fashion, which may interest you or not. While you may not want to pay to receive either the paper copy or get

access to the full Web site, there’s plenty of good information (including photos from the latest fashion shows) that anyone can access at www.WWD.com.

✓ Burda is the world’s best-selling magazine for those who sew their own clothes. But even if you can’t sew on a button, there’s a lot of good information within the magazine’s pages, or on its Web site (www.burdafashion.com). For example, you can learn a lot about fabrics through Burda, knowledge that will serve you well when checking out the clothes on the racks of your favorite stores.

✓ Figure, which bills itself as being for “Real Women,” is for larger women. It includes lots of tips on how to dress if you’re a size 14 and above.

✓ More Magazine is for women over 40. The magazine covers fashion along with many other areas of interest.

✓ MaternityandStyle.com is a good place to get ideas if you’re expecting.

✓ Magazines from other countries: You can learn a lot by checking out magazines from other countries. Some will be in English, such as Canada’s Flare, while others may be in a language you don’t understand, but because fashion is a visual medium, you may still get some ideas, especially from the French magazines, such as Jalouse, L’Officiel, and Madame Figaro, since many styles originate there before crossing the Atlantic.

Figure 8-3: Chic can mean jeans and a T-shirt as long as it’s the right jeans and T-shirt!

There are also magazines that don’t have a paper version but are strictly electronic. Among the top Webzines for those interested in fashion are Hintmag.com, Fashion156.com, Glossmag. ca (which is a Canadian company), Unvogue.com, and Glam.com. Like their paper cousins, Webzines cover more than just fashion, but unlike them, you can find videos from the latest fashion shows and any late-breaking fashion news long before the print magazines can cover it. (Many of the women’s magazines have deadlines of three to six months, meaning the stories have to be written that far ahead of time in order to make it into the magazine.)

TV goes high fashion

Though fashion was never off the radar of women, in recent years, it’s been even more in your face with the advent of a multitude of television shows.

It began with Queer Eye for the Straight Guy and exploded into more reality shows covering every aspect of the fashion business, and turning models and fashion professors into superstars overnight.

Many reality shows are centered around fashion. Here are a couple of my favorites:

✓ The Fashion Show (Bravo) will keep you glued to the TV. Fifteen professional designers compete in this series for a chance to have their creations sold in the retail market. Over $100,000 is also at stake! Designer Isaac Mizrahi and Grammy Award-winning performer and actress Kelly Rowland run the show. You really get to see what goes into the making of a clothing line.

✓ What Not to Wear (TLC) is also extremely entertaining and informative. The show teaches women how to find their personal style. Hosts Stacy London and Clinton Kelly take someone who dresses frumpy and give her a fabulous new look.

While some of these shows are more educational than others in that they focus on teaching you about how to dress, they’re all fun. If you enjoy watching them, go ahead. (Just don’t watch them instead of my fashion pieces on Today!)

Building Your Wardrobe: Your What- and Where-to-Buy Guide

In This Chapter

▶ The must-have basics

▶ Where to shop and how to do so without busting the bank

When is the best time to shop? Hmmm…that’s a tough question to answer, right? Here’s the basic rule to follow (unless you’re facing an extreme circumstance, and I mean extreme): Don’t go on a shopping frenzy if you’re feeling down, bloated, or bored. Although you may think these seem like the perfect scenarios to soothe yourself in a time of distress, they’re not. If you’re reading this while in a relatively calm frame of mind, you know where I’m coming from. With that said, for many of us, shopping does the trick when we need a lift, but then the focus should be on what you buy, not how much you buy.

This chapter explains what to do (and not do) to ensure that your forays into clothing shops leave you feeling good and owning items you need, want, look good in, and can afford. It also explains what items you should look for if your closet doesn’t already have them.

Wardrobe Staples

There are some items that you absolutely need. These make up the basis of your wardrobe; they’re the must haves, no matter what your style. I call them wardrobe essentials. To be considered a wardrobe essential, an article of clothing has to have several important attributes:

✓ It must be versatile. This is the most important quality of an essential piece of clothing. One key factor in versatility is color. Because ward- robe essentials have to go with lots of other clothing, they tend to be monochromatic and neutral in color. They also must work with different outfits. A blazer that you can pair with a skirt, pants, or a pair of jeans is a good example.

✓ It has to be of good, perhaps even exceptional, quality. A wardrobe essential makes a statement, and anyone looking should be able to tell that it’s top shelf. High quality also means that it wears well — very important for a garment that you’ll rely on again and again.

✓ It should be in a classic style. You don’t want your wardrobe essentials to ever really go out of fashion.

✓ It must be a 10. These garments, like everything in your closet, should have all the qualities of a 10 (refer to Chapter 2), and because they form the basis of your stylish wardrobe, it’s okay to spend a little more for these than you would other, less essential, items.

So what are the basic wardrobe essentials? Read on.

A lot of the items in the following list are black. Why? Because black provides a clean slate on which to build your outfit. Black garments offer many pluses: No one knows how often you wear them. Stains are difficult, if not impossible, to see. The color is flattering on every person and every body type. And with a black basic, you’re free to add color in other areas of your outfit and have fun with prints or great accessories.

Little black dress (LBD)

Ah, the little black dress. It should be sexy, yet sophisticated. It should be well-made and fit like a glove. It should hide your flaws and accentuate your attributes. It should go from day (wear it to the office with a cardigan or blazer and a set of pearls and leather pumps) to night (take off the blazer or cardigan and add some makeup, jewelry, and heels). Really, the little black dress, shown in Figure 7-1, is so versatile, it can go anywhere and be appropriate.

Choose a LBD in the style that suits you, makes you feel comfortable, and looks most like you. It can be sleeveless, have cap sleeves, or have 3⁄4-length sleeves. It can have a V-neck, boat neck, crew neck, or square neck. It can be knee-length, a little longer, a little shorter, or miniskirt length. Really, the LBD is both universal and individual at the same time. Find one that makes you feel fabulous and make the investment because this is one piece that really gives you your money’s worth!

Figure 7-1: Pearls and pumps make the LBD simple yet chic.

Black blazer

The black blazer is key in your wardrobe. Because it’s black, it goes with virtually every- thing. You can change the look just by changing the accessories. (And, as I mentioned previously, because it’s black, no one will notice how often you wear it.)

Although it doesn’t need to be ridiculously expensive or high-end, the blazer does need to fit you perfectly and work with your body type. If you want to appear taller or longer, choose a blazer that’s longer. If you want toaccentuate your beautiful waistline, make sure it’s fitted in the waist area. Also make sure it’s current. Avoid one that looks like something from the 80s — oversized with enormous shoulder pads.

Should you go with a double- or single- breasted blazer? My advice is choose a single- breasted one. You can wear a single-breasted blazer comfortably and fashionably either open or closed, and you have the option of wearing it over dresses or skirts, as well as pants. (Don’t underestimate the power of a black blazer and jeans. As Figure 7-2 shows it’s a classic look that can take you from day to night. It’s my go-to outfit when in doubt!)

Don’t be afraid to make the blazer your own: Add a favorite pin to the lapel if you want to jazz it up when the occasion calls for it. A black blazer doesn’t have to be boring. Again, it’s a basic that you can build your outfit around.

Figure 7-2: You can never go wrong with a black blazer and blue jeans.

Crisp, white button-down shirt

The white button-down shirt should fit you well. Nothing oversized here. At first glance, your white shirt may look no different than the one your husband or boyfriend wears under his suits, but yours is made and cut specifically for a woman. It should be flatter- ing and accentuate your best features. You can wear a white shirt on its own, tucked in or out, under a sweater, under a jacket, or as part of a suit. Keep the following things in mind as you decide on your white shirt:

✓ Style: The more expensive shirts look a little dressier and need to be pressed (otherwise, they look messy), but if you’re buying only one, a dressier shirt is the way to go because it’s more versatile. You can dress it up for work under a suit or on its own with slacks or a great skirt. Or you can dress it down by putting it under a sweater or with a pair of jeans. Less fancy shirts are also an option if you’re planning to wear the shirt only as casual dress. This type is good with jeans or tied at the waist over a bikini, for example. These shirts aren’t as structured and don’t need to be pressed.

If you have a great waist, buy a fitted shirt; if not, buy one that is cut straight.

✓ Material: Whether dressy or more casual, the white shirt is generally made of cotton. If you can, go for combed cotton, which means that longer fibers were used; these fibers are stronger and give the material a more luxurious appearance. Many shirts designed for office wear are made of cotton in an oxford weave. Although a comfortable type of cotton, these types of shirts don’t wear as well, and tend to pill at the collar and cuffs. Cotton broadcloth is sturdier and resists soiling.

✓ Construction: Because your collar is usually at eye level, make sure it’s sewn properly. Women’s button-down shirts don’t generally have actual buttons on the collar that button down to the shirt, so make sure there are no puckers in the material and that it lays flat.

Brooks Brothers (www.brooksbrothers.com) makes an iron-free, non- wrinkle shirt that you don’t have to dry clean. You can throw it in the dryer and it comes out looking perfect!

Black trousers

A pair of high-quality, flat front, black trousers are a necessity in every ward- robe. Stay away from pleats because they only accentuate an area that no one really needs accentuating! If you can buy only one pair of trousers, select a length that matches the heel height you most commonly wear. And choose a lightweight wool that will work in summer or winter.

If you can buy another pair of trousers, ivory is great to have (even in the winter). I love winter white! It’s such a refreshing change in the darker months, and it shows that you have style and are daring enough to let everyone know it.

Knee-length black skirt

Every woman should have a knee-length black skirt that fits perfectly and gives her a slim appearance. The particular style is up to you (and what looks good on your body type): It can be a pencil skirt or an A-line skirt (head to Chapter 9 to see a range of skirt styles). So that it can go from season to season, look for one that’s a lightweight wool.

Think how much you can do with the basic black skirt. Not only is black always flattering, but the outfit possibilities are endless — a beautiful blouse, a gorgeous sweater, and high boots or pumps. You can pair a knee-length skirt with solids, such as a basic white cardigan set (see Figure 7-3) or with a fabulous print. If you keep the outfit simple, you can liven it up with great jewelry or a great bag.

Figure 7-3: The basic black skirt and sweater set — always chic and classic.

Classic beige trench coat

The classic trench is a necessary staple because it never goes out of style and you can wear it in just about any season — spring, summer, fall, and, depending on the winter temperatures where you live, some- times winter. If you stick to a classic trench coat, it will last you for years. When choosing a trench coat, follow these suggestions:

✓ Make sure the coat fits in the shoulders. You don’t want to be drowning in your coat. You should always be wearing your clothes; they should not be wearing you.

✓ Choose a style and length that gives you the look you want. Decide whether you want it to cinch at the waist or be looser fit. A belted trench flatters your waistline in contrast to your shoulders and the overall volumeof the coat itself. If you plan to wear it over dresses and pants, make sure it’s long enough that your dresses aren’t sticking out the bottom. You can get away with a shorter trench if you are only going to wear it with pants or jeans (see Figure 7-4).

✓ Make sure the coat doesn’t overwhelm you. If you’re on the smaller side, pick a coat that’s less busy, that is, has less going on with the pockets, lapels, buttons, and so on, and make sure it’s single-breasted. If you’re taller, you can carry off a more traditional looking double- breasted trench.

Because you’ll probably buy only one trench coat, make sure it goes with everything in your closet and that it’s a length to give you the look you want.

Figure 7-4: Make sure you wear the trench and that it doesn’t wear you!

Black leather bag

You can look at a bag as something handy to carry your makeup, cell phone, and other necessities, or you can look at it as a great way to show off your sense of style. Or better yet, why not have both! Most women buy one great bag for the season and carry it everywhere.

A black leather bag is a perfect everywhere bag, a bag you can wear to work, to lunch, to dinner, and even shopping on the weekend. It goes with everything, and you’ll feel comfortable using it with whatever color or prints you may be wearing. It should be medium-sized: large enough to hold whatever you need during the day but not so large that it looks awkward if you find yourself running straight out to dinner with it.

I highly recommend having several bags in your arsenal so that you can accessorize your various outfits, but as a go-to bag for every day, the black leather bag is key. You live out of your bag, so this isn’t an item to skimp on. And just the way you notice every other woman’s bag, every other woman will be taking notice of yours, so make sure it gives a good first impression of you!

Quality blue jeans

Everyone should have a pair of favorite jeans — you know, the kind of jeans that make you feel sexy, pulled together, and comfortable. These jeans should be current in style, and the cut should be one that flatters your best assets. The great news is that nowadays jeans companies are making jeans to accommodate every body type. So figure out what your body type is (refer to Chapter 3 for help), then pick the cut of your jeans accordingly. Some suggestions:

✓ If you have great legs, you may want a pair of skinny jeans.

✓ If you want to direct attention away from your waist area, choose a flared jean.

✓ If you have a great waistline and want to draw attention to it, go for a pair of high-waisted jeans.

Jeans can get a little pricey, but you can still get a great pair for around, or even under, $100. And always check the sale section because jeans do actually go on sale — a great price break if you can find your size. If you are only investing in one pair of jeans, go with dark denim. They are more slimming and more versatile. You can wear them totally casual during the day, and you can dress them up for night.

Pair of black pumps

Every woman needs a pair of “go to” shoes. Along the same lines as the little black dress and the black skirt, a pair of black pumps serves you well. Black pumps go with everything, they won’t get too dirty, and they can also go from day to night. If you can afford only one pair of black pumps, go with a dressier pair; shoes are generally easier to dress down than to dress up.

When buying shoes, make sure they’re comfortable! Don’t expect them to “break in.” You’re going to spend some money on them because shoes tend to cost a bit more, so please, please, please make sure they fit right. For more on sizing shoes, head to Chapter 16.

White and black cardigan sweaters

Cardigan sweaters are great for those times when you don’t know what the weather will be like or if it’s the middle of summer and you get stuck in a ridiculously cold air-conditioned restaurant or office. If you get warm, you can always throw the cardigan over your shoulders and tie around your neck, and if you’re chilly, you can wear it.

If you can afford it, get your cardigans in a light cashmere. If you can’t afford cashmere, a great cotton does the trick! Whether cotton or cashmere, a good- quality cardigan sweater should last a very long time. You can find great cardigans at a store like Gap or Old Navy for a very reasonable price. (Target also has great ones.) You should be able to purchase a cotton cardigan for $50 or less.

Want more than black and white? Cardigans come in all sorts of other colors. Spring is a great time to buy cotton cardigans, which are generally a spring item and the stores will be well stocked. You can buy cashmere whenever; they generally have seasonal colors, too.

 

Figure 7-5: Pearls are not just for Grandma.

Set of pearls

A set of pearls can be a beautiful accent to any outfit. They’re perfect for the office and for a formal affair. Obviously, real pearls are expensive, so if you can borrow from Grandma — lucky you! If not, you can buy fakes. Just play around with them.

Pearls aren’t just for those who prefer classic styles. There are many ways to wear them, and a long strand can be worn with a funkier outfit. Remember, they don’t have to look like your grandma’s pearls if your outfit isn’t like grandma’s (see Figure 7-5).

You can get a nice strand of pearls that will do the trick at a good trimmings store. Try layering a few strands. M&J Trimming sells them for $10 each. If you’re not able to visit the New York store, get them online at www.mjtrim.com.

Diamond studs, or shall we say cubics!

You definitely don’t want to leave your ears bare, and diamond studs go perfectly with everything. If you are heading to work in a suit and then out at night in jeans and a blouse, studs are the perfect complement. They’re classy, and you can throw them on without worrying whether they go with what you’re wearing because diamonds go with everything!

Don’t have the money for genuine diamonds studs? Don’t worry. Buy cubic zirconia instead; just keep them small.

Making the Most of Your Shopping Excursions

In real estate, it’s location, location, location. In clothes shopping, it’s focus, focus, focus. If you know what you want and how much you want to spend for it, every shopping expedition can work like a well-oiled machine. But if you shop with your eyes darting at every item that attracts your attention, you can be sure that you’re going to wind up buying the wrong items for your wardrobe. The time to act like a kid in a candy store is . . . when you’re a kid in a candy store.

Budgeting for your fashion wardrobe It’s possible to spend an almost unlimited amount of money on clothes. After all, Imelda Marcos, former first lady of the Philippines, left behind over 1,200 pairs of shoes when she had to flee the presidential palace. Throw jewelry into the mix, and she spent even more. But most of us don’t have unlimited budgets. The trick is to dress fashionably within your budget.

To paraphrase Mick Jagger, you can’t always get what you want, but if you try, you can usually get what you need. The first thing to do when putting together a clothing budget is to figure out what you need versus what you want. If you don’t have a black blazer, for example, then that’s a need. If you have a black blazer, but you’d like a new one by Ralph Lauren, that’s a want. When you think about how much to budget, be willing to spend more on the must-have items because they need to last a long time. Consider these purchases investments.

The next thing to do is to determine how much you have available to spend. If you have enough to afford both what you need and what you want, lucky you. If not, focus on the needs. As explained earlier, they form the basis of your wardrobe and, because of their versatility, can be worn in a variety of situations and expand your wardrobe. What should you do with your list of wants? Write them down on a piece of paper that you keep with you when you go shopping, in case you see an item from your want list on sale.

Many people don’t bother with a clothing budget, and that’s a mistake. Using a budget — that is, knowing how much you can spend on an item and keeping track of when you spend more or less — allows you to buy more clothes, not less. If you know you saved money on a pair of black pumps, for example, you can add your savings to the money you’re putting away for the diamond studs, and eventually you’ll get them. But if you don’t keep track, then those studs will always remain far off in the distance.

Figure out how much you can pay before looking for a particular article of clothing. By having a top price in mind while you’re going through the racks, you can eliminate anything that costs a lot more, thus saving you time.

The following sections explain how to get the most for your hard-earned money.

Focusing on quality

When it comes to building your wardrobe, quality is more important than quantity for two basic reasons: One, better-quality clothing lasts longer. If you spend twice as much for a trench coat and it lasts you three times as long as a cheaper coat, you’re actually ahead of the game. True story: The year I graduated from the University of Michigan, I used most of my graduation money to buy a black, Prada-belted raincoat that goes with everything. That was over ten years ago, and I still wear that same raincoat. The point? Investing in fine, good clothing is a bargain. I would rather you buy one fabulous item and mix and match it than ten that are just “eh.”

So does that mean you should buy the $25 pair of plastic flip-flops rather than the 99-cent store variety? Absolutely not. Sometimes it makes sense to buy an item that is less expensive (when an item is trendy, for example, or when it’s made of a material that doesn’t shout out “This only costs $10!”). But more often than not, a quality item will be recognized for what it is, and it doesn’t need a fancy label for that to happen. (I don’t encourage wearing items that scream a certain designer anyway.) Even if people don’t know exactly why one leather bag stands out more than others, they can still tell the difference. And trust me, you’ll feel great every time you wear that great investment piece that you waited to buy.

Shopping to look, not to buy

In English, we call it window-shopping. In French, it’s called leche carreau, which translates into “window licking” (when you think about it, it’s an apt term for the fabulous windows in the Parisian fashion houses like Dior, Chanel, and Hermes that can easily cause you to drool when the prices may make it impossible for you to buy). But window-shopping serves a greater function than just being a way to spend a Saturday afternoon when you don’t have money to spend. If you approach it as a learning experience rather than a shopping trip, it can be time very well spent. To get the most of your window shopping excursions, do the following:

✓ Adjust your attitude. When browsing, don’t let yourself get frustrated because you can’t plunk down the cash for everything that you see or try on.

✓ Don’t stay out of high-end department stores or boutiques because you can’t afford to buy. These stores shouldn’t intimidate you, nor

should you think that you shouldn’t try anything on if you can’t afford to buy. You should try on designer clothing if you fall in love with it. Doing so gives you an idea of what you’re looking for, and perhaps you’ll find

a similar look in another store that is in your price-range. Knowledge is power, and if you see something you like, try it on! Trust me, the fashion police are not going to come and get you just because you had no intention of buying.

✓ Comparison shop. You know that you’re eventually going to buy something, so think of window-shopping as preparation. You no doubt already comparison shop for big-ticket items. Not many of us buy the first car we see. Window-shopping gives you the same opportunity with clothing: It lets you make sure that you’re getting the best item for your needs.

✓ Understand how anticipation can increase the ultimate satisfaction you feel when you do eventually buy. As you slowly narrow down your search (taking your time is important) and as the moment of purchase actually approaches, you’ll feel more and more excited, and the purchase itself will give you that much more satisfaction — certainly more than if you just ran into a store, grabbed a few things, and took them home.

Choosing your wingman (or woman)

Sometimes you go shopping to buy a specific item, and other times you go shopping to, well, just go shopping. Some people like to hunt solo (which is totally cool if you are 100 percent confident in your judgment), and others need approval on every hair band purchased. Most of us fall somewhere between the two extremes. So what type of person do you need by your side when trying to find whatever you are looking for that day?

Choosing a friend

The best people to take shopping with you are the people who

✓ Make you feel secure

✓ Have your best interests at heart

✓ Give you his or her honest opinion

✓ Knows what you can and can’t afford

If the person you are with fits these requirements, you are sure to walk out with only 10s for your closet.

In his comic strip, poor Dagwood is often shown shopping with his wife, burdened down with a mountain of packages. While a husband may make a good schlepper, most husbands, boyfriends, or partners may not want the role of the professional bag-carrier. So should you or shouldn’t you shop with your significant other? If he (or she) does all the things in the preceding list, go for it.

Shopping with a sales associate

Whether you know what you’re looking for or not, a sales associate can be very helpful to you. She knows what merchandise is in the store better than anyone and can direct you efficiently to areas that may be just what you’re looking for. Sales associates also know what’s trendy or current, and they can make your shopping experience a whole lot easier.

The thing to be careful of when working with a sales associate is overspending. If you stay focused, the salesperson can expedite shopping for you. But if you’re aimlessly wandering and vulnerable to outside influences, especially if you’re on your own, you could end up spending a whole lot more than you bargained for. Make sure that you shop in stores where you can return the merchandise without a problem.

Many times sales associates work on commission. Although you’re looking for the approval of another person, it’s hard to fully trust someone you know benefits from the sale. The best advice I can give is if you love an item, see if it is refundable, buy it, and then try it on at home or in front of someone you truly trust.

Keeping up the pace: Shopping tempo

As you may have observed, most retail establishments don’t have clocks in clear view. Why? Because retailers know that if you feel rushed, you’re likely to make fewer purchases. Which should tell you something about choosing your shopping tempo. Dawdle too long, and you’re probably going to end up buying something that you’ll later regret. Certainly you don’t want to make mistakes because you were rushing around too quickly, but if you are back and forth about a certain item, chances are it is not a must-have. Remember, the 10s (refer to Chapter 2) should be obvious in the mirror when you try them on!

Having a hard time making up your mind? There’s nothing wrong with leaving the store and taking some time to think about it. Almost every store will hold things, unless they’re on sale, for at least 24 hours. If you leave the store and are still thinking about the garment the next day, chances are you really want it. If you haven’t given it a second thought, then lucky you didn’t buy it because you obviously didn’t love it enough anyway.

Checking out the details

Okay, so you’ve found a fabulous must-have. Good for you! But before swiping your credit card, you need to take a few more steps:

✓ Carefully examine the garment. Check for any signs of damage. Make sure any closures, especially zippers, are in working order.

If you do find a small defect, don’t be too quick to put the garment aside.

If it’s small enough that no one looking at it could detect it, you may be able to show it to a floor manager, get a decent price reduction, and walk out with quite a bargain. If an item isn’t perfect, 10 to 20 percent is a fair discount to ask for, depending on the damage. If the item is just dirty, stores often give you 10 percent off for dry-cleaning.

✓ If you didn’t actually try on the garment, make sure it wasn’t mislabeled. There may be a different size on the inside than is marked on the store label, for example.

Knowing Where to Shop

Many places try to get you to spend your hard-earned dollars in their retail emporium. Each type offers different advantages and disadvantages, and you should know what options are near you so that you can make an informed choice of where to purchase your clothes.

Department stores

Department stores offer you the biggest selection of clothes to choose from, which can definitely be a time saver. Many department stores are part of national chains, like Macy’s, which because of their buying power, can offer attractive prices. A department store is also a one-stop shop, so that you can buy not only clothes, but also shoes, accessories, coats, and jewelry. But sometimes having so much to choose from can end up being confusing and make it harder to decide. And the sales help in a department store can be hit or miss.

Each department store is slightly different, some being more upscale than others. They all have sales, so you can save money on quality clothes if you’re willing to be patient. It’s also very easy to return clothes because even if you’re not nearby the store from which you actually purchased the item, you can return it to a different branch.

Dressing room etiquette

The advantage of shopping in a store is that you can try on the clothes before buying them (duh!). That means going into a dressing room, which should be a straightforward enough activity, right? But there are rules, especially if you’re shopping in a store you go to often. If you bring in a large amount of clothing, put the items back on the hanger after you’re done trying them on. It doesn’t have to be perfectly done, but leav- ing a mess in the dressing room is not proper etiquette, nor does it fit in with the fabulous

new you. Also, don’t be afraid to ask for bigger or smaller sizes, other items that you remember seeing, and heels (or flats) in your size to see how that particular outfit will look. At some of the less-expensive chain stores, you will not have the luxury of a tailor or shoe options to try on, but at department stores you should be able to reap many of the benefits. After all, if you’re paying for something, you should get what you pay for.

Inexpensive and trendy stores

Let’s face it — everyone wants a bargain, but no one wants to look like they’re wearing hand-me-downs. Luckily, several chains offer the hottest clothes at really affordable prices. H&M, the Swedish chain that first spread across Europe, has landed in America and is quickly spreading itself from sea to shining sea. Forever 21 was founded in Los Angeles and now has over 1,500 stores across the country. Other popular chains include Wet Seal, Charlotte Russe, and Urban Outfitters.

These types of stores are great places to buy trendy items. While you may occasionally be able to find classic pieces in these places, their real forte involves fun jewelry, layering T-shirts, and look-at-me tops.

Fashion boutiques

Chain stores have buyers who shop for the entire chain. The buyers for boutique stores, often the owner, shop only for their boutiques. Although boutique buyers could choose the same dress that you’d find in Macy’s, usually fashion boutiques offer items that aren’t being sold everywhere else. Boutiques also generally have a much smaller quantity of merchandise, and, even if they do have the same dress that’s in Bloomingdale’s, it’s probably at a higher price.

There are many more boutiques than department stores, and each one has its own personal vision. Most feature trendier items mixed with more classic pieces. The main advantage a boutique offers is service. The sales associate is both knowledgeable and helpful. And if you’re a regular customer, she’ll probably learn your tastes and may let you know when a new piece has arrived that she thinks you’ll like. Boutique prices may be a bit higher, but your overall shopping experience will also be quite pleasant. If you don’t have to worry too much about what you spend, a boutique could be the ideal place for you to shop.

Boutique shopping is a great way to help form your personal style. Most boutiques help you focus on what you like and are not as overwhelming as department stores.

Catalogues

The first mail-order catalogue was created by none other than Ben Franklin in 1744. Although he was selling academic books, catalogue shopping has been a convenient alternative ever since (even though online shopping is now giving catalogues a run for their money).

Since you can’t touch or try on the clothes that you buy through a catalogue, you have to trust the catalogue company to do a good job in offering you quality merchandise. Many catalogue companies have thrived doing just that. Yes, you can send anything you buy back, in some cases even years later, but the repacking and mailing process is a pain. On the other hand, you can leaf through a catalogue while commuting or in bed.

The Internet

Shopping for clothes online can be very efficient, saving you the time it takes to get to the store(s), the cost of gas, and the wear and tear that a day of shop- ping takes on your body. Shopping online also eliminates having to fight your way through the crowds and increases your chances of saving a bundle of money because of the fierce competition between online markets. In addition to the savings, you get immediate access to the widest possible selection of merchandise, and you can shop whenever you want to, even at 3 o’clock in the morning. So why doesn’t everyone shop online? Usually for these reasons:

✓ You can’t try on the clothing. Of course, you can try it on after you buy it and (most of the time) send it back if it doesn’t work out. But that can take days or weeks and you have to put in the effort of rewrapping it and going to the post office. If you were in an actual dressing room, all you’d have to do is put it back on the rack.

✓ You don’t get to feel the material and look closely at the way the garment has been made. Chapter 4 has information on why garment construction is important.

Do what many online buyers do: Go to an actual brick-and-mortar store to try on and touch the merchandise and then go home and look for the cheapest price online.

✓ You may have to pay extra for shipping costs. Many online stores these

days try to lure you to make a purchase by offering free shipping. Just

double-check that you don’t have to pay for shipping if you have to send something back.

✓ You have to pay by credit card. Many people shy away from buying goods online because they’re afraid of giving out their credit card number. Of course many of those same people gladly hand their card to a waiter who could easily write down the number as well as the security code. While online shopping is usually safe and millions shop online with their credit card every day, the possibility does exist for fraud; however, because of the Fair Credit Billing Act, your financial risk for unauthorized use is limited to $50.

Because the e-retail industry knows that this fear is holding many people back, retailers are coming up with various ways to increase the public’s confidence. The buy SAFE Web site rates over 300,000 e-retailers. Those that have passed its standards (which include examining each site’s encryption procedures) are allowed to display the buy SAFE logo (see Figure 7-6). buy SAFE also has its own shopping portal which provides a $25,000 bond on each purchase and 30 days worth of ID theft protection insurance.

Another solution is to use PayPal. Your credit information is stored on PayPal’s server, and PayPal pays the merchant, so your credit information remains in one secure place and is not given to the merchants.

Not every online site accepts PayPal, but more and more are doing so. Another alternative is to buy a gift card, which both MasterCard and Visa offer. The gift cards do have limitations and fees, but as with PayPal, the company from which you’re purchasing doesn’t get to see your credit card number.

Figure 7-6: A buy SAFE logo.

Where to look

Almost every major clothing store has a Web site where you can purchase everything featured in its stores, and then some. No matter where you live, you can shop online at any store across the country and around the world. In addition to Web sites associated with the big clothing stores, thousands of online stores aren’t associated with so-called brick-and-mortar stores. These stores carry clothing that you can’t find anywhere else. So the more important question when shopping online is not how broad a selection there is but how to narrow it down so that you don’t get overwhelmed. There’s no easy answer, but you can employ a couple different strategies:

✓ Search by store. Type names of stores you already know (like Macy’s or Bloomingdale’s) into your browser, then search the site for the item you’re looking for. The downside of this strategy is that you’ll see only what that particular store offers and you may not be getting the lowest possible price.

✓ Let someone else narrow down the possibilities. If you use Google Directory (www.google.com/dirhp), for example, and look under Shopping and then select Clothing, you get a list to choose from of every type of clothing, ranked by popularity (in Google). Just because a site is popular doesn’t guarantee that you’ll find anything you like, but it’s a good way to narrow down the sites you visit. (Of course on the Web, “narrow down” is a relative term. At the time I wrote this, Google offered 324 sites under the women’s clothing category alone. So while this strategy does narrow things down a bit, it’s still a large selection, and one you couldn’t possibly go through in one sitting.)

Mark your favorite sites so you can easily go back to them later. If you find a Web site that you like and know you’ll want to go back to it, put it on your Favorites list or bookmark it.

Making allies online

While online shopping may tend to be a solitary pleasure, you don’t really have to tackle this job all by yourself. There are two sets of allies that you can use to help you: family and friends (of course) and bloggers.

✓ Friends and family members: Let’s say you just spent an hour checking out some new Web sites that sell clothes. Make a list of the places you visited and your opinions about those places (“good selection of shoes, not much in the way of plus sizes, and so on”) and send that list to your allies in shopping. If they return the favor for sites they visit, you’ll soon have a good list of sites worth visiting, as well as those to stay away from.

✓ Bloggers: While you may not have the time to visit a lot of Web sites, bloggers do. It’s not hard to find fashion bloggers because most of them link to each other’s blogs, so if you find one, you’ll quickly be able to see who the other major bloggers are. They all have their specialties, and you’ll soon learn which blogs you want to check regularly for sales and other fashion tips. If you love fashion, reading all these blogs can become addictive, so try to be selective.

To get started, go to Google (or your favorite search engine like Yahoo or AOL) and type in fashion blog to see a list. The ones listed at the top generally include sites that offer a directory of fashion blogs: www. apparelsearch.com/Fashion/Fashion_Blogs.htm and nymag. com/daily/fashion are two available directories as of this writing.

One easy way to see what’s new on the blogs is to use RSS feeds, which are basically updates sent out by Web sites. You need a place to assemble these feeds, like Netvibes (www.netvibes.com). After you open an account, which is easy and free, you can create a fashion area and subscribe to the RSS feed on your favorite blogs. Then all you have to do is go to your Netvibes site to quickly see all the updates from the blogs you’ve selected. This can be a real time saver.

Vintage and consignment stores

When people clean out their closets, looking to give worn-out pieces to char- ity, they usually give to an organization like The Salvation Army. But vintage clothing takes quite a different path. Just like a boutique owner shops for items that she likes among the clothing manufacturers, the owner of a vintage store looks for used clothing that stands out. Now there are thrift shops that represent charities where people may donate designer clothing, and if you have one in your neighborhood, great. But keep in mind that shopping in a vintage clothing store is not something you do to save money (not everything in a vintage store is inexpensive; in fact, it can be the opposite), but because you expect to find unique items to help you define your own personal style.

✓ Quality vintage clothing shops. At these shops, you’ll likely find original Dior, Chanel, and other very high-end designer dresses, blouses, skirts, and more. These pieces are great to have. Chances are there aren’t any others like them still around, so you never have to worry about being

in the same dress as anyone else at the party. These vintage pieces are also a great way to express your sense of style. They show that you’re savvy enough to appreciate fine designer workmanship and bold enough to wear something different from everyone else. As far as cost, each piece is unique and is priced based on the designer, the workmanship, and the condition of the garment.

In some cases, you will be able to find a vintage designer piece for less than the original cost, but in others, the price could be very high. So don’t go vintage shopping thinking that used means you’ll get a bargain. In many cases the items have only been worn a few times, if at all. Just like classic wardrobe essentials though, a great vintage piece will stand

the test of time, and if it’s in your budget, it could be well worth the investment.

✓ Thrift stores. These stores are another option when looking for vintage clothing. Chances are good that you won’t find the most high-end pieces there, but you never know what you may come across if you take the time to search through the merchandise.

✓ Consignment stores. People who drop off clothes to these stores expect to get money for them when the clothes are sold. The people running such stores only take clothes that are in good shape, so the price may be a little higher, as both the store and the owner expect to make some money. Still the selection is decent and the prices still very reasonable.

Sample sales

What happens to the designer wear that’s made to be shown to buyers but doesn’t get sold? Since they cost a fortune to make (because they’re all hand-made), rather than let them go to waste, they’re sold in what are called sample sales. While you may only know the very top names in fashions, liter- ally hundreds of designers work in the fashion industry with their own lines, and they all have sample sales, so there can be lots to choose from, though obviously you can’t expect to find a wide variety of sizes as these clothes were made to be worn by models.

To find out where the latest sample sales are being held, go to www.top button.com. This site is free, but you have to register. Otherwise, you can purchase a copy of New York Magazine or Time Out New York at the newsstand. You can also find sample sales in other cities like Los Angeles, Chicago, and Boston, but there aren’t as many as in New York. Check www.dailycandy.com, which covers all the big cities across the U.S. and always has information on sample sales, boutique openings, and more.

You can even find sample sales online now. Certain Web sites have sales last- ing for 48 hours or so for designer merchandise. The good news is that the merchandise for sale isn’t just samples; the sites have excess stock, so you have a better chance of getting your size. A couple of good ones to check out are www.hautelook.com and www.gilt.com. After you register, you’ll get e-mails about upcoming sales.

Controlling Your Inner Shopaholic

A shopaholic is a person who needs to shop and does it excessively. If you’ve got the time and the bank account to afford to use shopping as a form of entertainment or therapy, then more power to you. But most of us don’t, and so allocating large chunks of both time and money to shopping for clothes poses dangers to those who get so caught up shopping that they leave reality behind and end up with bulging closets and skeleton-thin wallets. This section may not be able to help shopaholics lose their addiction to shopping, but it can help you improve your shopping experience and cut down both the time and money you spend to create a fashionable wardrobe.

Making a list and checking it twice

I know what you’re thinking, “Does she really think that every time I go to the mall or my favorite store, I’m going to make a list of what I need and stick to it?” Well, that is sort of what I’m saying, but hear me out.

Most people make a shopping list before going to the supermarket, for sev- eral reasons, the most important of which is so that, when they actually return home, they have what they need. The same idea applies to clothes shopping.

Many of us shop as a way to blow off steam and brighten the day a little. And that’s okay — sometimes. The key is that you have to be smart about it. Here’s a strategy you can use to make your shopping trips more productive, without losing all the spontaneity and fun:

1. With our list of “must-haves” in mind, take inventory of your closet (refer to the earlier section “Wardrobe Essentials”).

When scanning your closet, make sure every item you keep is a 10 — meaning each of your staple items must be the right fabric, must fit you perfectly, and must look like you bought it at the start of the season (even if you didn’t).

2. Make a list of what you actually need in your wardrobe.

If you’re into gadgets, feel free to make this list electronically.

3. The next time you feel like just buying something, like so many of us do, buy something from the list.

That way, you still get the boost of a shopping pick-me-up and are productive at the same time, because in the process you got something you needed.

Having a wish-list of items that you want to save up for, hope for as a gift, or want in a less-expensive version is totally appropriate (and fun!). Some people have a folder of tear-outs from magazines of things they would kill for — and you never know when those items may go on sale. If you’re one of these people, you may not need a tangible list (when you see it you’ll know it), but it’s good to have these items stored in the back of your head for those “you never know” times!

Spur-of-the-moment shopping without busting the bank

Now I know what you’re thinking: You have a big party Saturday night, and you really want to buy something new to wear. Trust me, I get it! Before you run out and impulsively buy an expensive new dress, try this: Go into your closet and pick out the dress that already fits you perfectly and hugs you in all the right places. Then hit the stores with that dress in mind and look for a statement necklace or a pair of beautiful chandelier earrings to spice it up. Going in with this approach lets you add another dimension to your ward- robe, because not only will you have a knockout necklace for your big party, but next week, you can wear that same piece of jewelry with jeans and a white T-shirt! Often, you’ll find that just buying something new gives you that natural high.

You can also look at sales racks. Because something is on sale doesn’t mean it’s of poor quality. Great pieces that don’t move in a certain amount of time are forced onto the sales rack to make space for new inventory. When you scan the sales rack, keep the basics on your mind. That perfect pencil skirt is often waiting right there. The sales rack is also good for those impulse pur- chases. If you see a trendy item that you want but know won’t last through the season, buy it on sale.

Electronic aids

Use electronic devices — digital cameras or phones with cameras, for example — to help avoid buying something you’ll regret or don’t need:

✓ Take a picture of a top or skirt in your closet that you’re looking to match. This way when you are in the mall, you can refer to the picture while on your hunt.

✓ Need a second opinion? Camera phones can help. It’s always a good idea to e-mail a friend who is honest if you are teetering on buying that perfect outfit (especially if it’s not refundable!).

Many stores don’t allow you to take photos of yourself in their clothing, but some don’t make a fuss. Many high-end stores (especially boutiques) enforce this rule because they don’t want people taking pictures of their items and then copying their designs. So if you try to take a picture and the salesperson tells you they don’t allow it, just apologize and put your camera away. If the salesperson doesn’t mind and thinks you’re a serious buyer who’s just getting reinforcement from a trusted friend, she may even take the picture!

Building Your Wardrobe: Your What- and Where-to-Buy Guide

In This Chapter

▶ The must-have basics

▶ Where to shop and how to do so without busting the bank

When is the best time to shop? Hmmm…that’s a tough question to answer, right? Here’s the basic rule to follow (unless you’re facing an extreme circumstance, and I mean extreme): Don’t go on a shopping frenzy if you’re feeling down, bloated, or bored. Although you may think these seem like the perfect scenarios to soothe yourself in a time of distress, they’re not. If you’re reading this while in a relatively calm frame of mind, you know where I’m coming from. With that said, for many of us, shopping does the trick when we need a lift, but then the focus should be on what you buy, not how much you buy.

This chapter explains what to do (and not do) to ensure that your forays into clothing shops leave you feeling good and owning items you need, want, look good in, and can afford. It also explains what items you should look for if your closet doesn’t already have them.

Wardrobe Staples

There are some items that you absolutely need. These make up the basis of your wardrobe; they’re the must haves, no matter what your style. I call them wardrobe essentials. To be considered a wardrobe essential, an article of clothing has to have several important attributes:

✓ It must be versatile. This is the most important quality of an essential piece of clothing. One key factor in versatility is color. Because ward- robe essentials have to go with lots of other clothing, they tend to be monochromatic and neutral in color. They also must work with different outfits. A blazer that you can pair with a skirt, pants, or a pair of jeans is a good example.

✓ It has to be of good, perhaps even exceptional, quality. A wardrobe essential makes a statement, and anyone looking should be able to tell that it’s top shelf. High quality also means that it wears well — very important for a garment that you’ll rely on again and again.

✓ It should be in a classic style. You don’t want your wardrobe essentials to ever really go out of fashion.

✓ It must be a 10. These garments, like everything in your closet, should have all the qualities of a 10 (refer to Chapter 2), and because they form the basis of your stylish wardrobe, it’s okay to spend a little more for these than you would other, less essential, items.

So what are the basic wardrobe essentials? Read on.

A lot of the items in the following list are black. Why? Because black provides a clean slate on which to build your outfit. Black garments offer many pluses: No one knows how often you wear them. Stains are difficult, if not impossible, to see. The color is flattering on every person and every body type. And with a black basic, you’re free to add color in other areas of your outfit and have fun with prints or great accessories.

Little black dress (LBD)

Ah, the little black dress. It should be sexy, yet sophisticated. It should be well-made and fit like a glove. It should hide your flaws and accentuate your attributes. It should go from day (wear it to the office with a cardigan or blazer and a set of pearls and leather pumps) to night (take off the blazer or cardigan and add some makeup, jewelry, and heels). Really, the little black dress, shown in Figure 7-1, is so versatile, it can go anywhere and be appropriate.

Choose a LBD in the style that suits you, makes you feel comfortable, and looks most like you. It can be sleeveless, have cap sleeves, or have 3⁄4-length sleeves. It can have a V-neck, boat neck, crew neck, or square neck. It can be knee-length, a little longer, a little shorter, or miniskirt length. Really, the LBD is both universal and individual at the same time. Find one that makes you feel fabulous and make the investment because this is one piece that really gives you your money’s worth!

Figure 7-1: Pearls and pumps make the LBD simple yet chic.

Black blazer

The black blazer is key in your wardrobe. Because it’s black, it goes with virtually every- thing. You can change the look just by changing the accessories. (And, as I mentioned previously, because it’s black, no one will notice how often you wear it.)

Although it doesn’t need to be ridiculously expensive or high-end, the blazer does need to fit you perfectly and work with your body type. If you want to appear taller or longer, choose a blazer that’s longer. If you want toaccentuate your beautiful waistline, make sure it’s fitted in the waist area. Also make sure it’s current. Avoid one that looks like something from the 80s — oversized with enormous shoulder pads.

Should you go with a double- or single- breasted blazer? My advice is choose a single- breasted one. You can wear a single-breasted blazer comfortably and fashionably either open or closed, and you have the option of wearing it over dresses or skirts, as well as pants. (Don’t underestimate the power of a black blazer and jeans. As Figure 7-2 shows it’s a classic look that can take you from day to night. It’s my go-to outfit when in doubt!)

Don’t be afraid to make the blazer your own: Add a favorite pin to the lapel if you want to jazz it up when the occasion calls for it. A black blazer doesn’t have to be boring. Again, it’s a basic that you can build your outfit around.

Figure 7-2: You can never go wrong with a black blazer and blue jeans.

Crisp, white button-down shirt

The white button-down shirt should fit you well. Nothing oversized here. At first glance, your white shirt may look no different than the one your husband or boyfriend wears under his suits, but yours is made and cut specifically for a woman. It should be flatter- ing and accentuate your best features. You can wear a white shirt on its own, tucked in or out, under a sweater, under a jacket, or as part of a suit. Keep the following things in mind as you decide on your white shirt:

✓ Style: The more expensive shirts look a little dressier and need to be pressed (otherwise, they look messy), but if you’re buying only one, a dressier shirt is the way to go because it’s more versatile. You can dress it up for work under a suit or on its own with slacks or a great skirt. Or you can dress it down by putting it under a sweater or with a pair of jeans. Less fancy shirts are also an option if you’re planning to wear the shirt only as casual dress. This type is good with jeans or tied at the waist over a bikini, for example. These shirts aren’t as structured and don’t need to be pressed.

If you have a great waist, buy a fitted shirt; if not, buy one that is cut straight.

✓ Material: Whether dressy or more casual, the white shirt is generally made of cotton. If you can, go for combed cotton, which means that longer fibers were used; these fibers are stronger and give the material a more luxurious appearance. Many shirts designed for office wear are made of cotton in an oxford weave. Although a comfortable type of cotton, these types of shirts don’t wear as well, and tend to pill at the collar and cuffs. Cotton broadcloth is sturdier and resists soiling.

✓ Construction: Because your collar is usually at eye level, make sure it’s sewn properly. Women’s button-down shirts don’t generally have actual buttons on the collar that button down to the shirt, so make sure there are no puckers in the material and that it lays flat.

Brooks Brothers (www.brooksbrothers.com) makes an iron-free, non- wrinkle shirt that you don’t have to dry clean. You can throw it in the dryer and it comes out looking perfect!

Black trousers

A pair of high-quality, flat front, black trousers are a necessity in every ward- robe. Stay away from pleats because they only accentuate an area that no one really needs accentuating! If you can buy only one pair of trousers, select a length that matches the heel height you most commonly wear. And choose a lightweight wool that will work in summer or winter.

If you can buy another pair of trousers, ivory is great to have (even in the winter). I love winter white! It’s such a refreshing change in the darker months, and it shows that you have style and are daring enough to let everyone know it.

Knee-length black skirt

Every woman should have a knee-length black skirt that fits perfectly and gives her a slim appearance. The particular style is up to you (and what looks good on your body type): It can be a pencil skirt or an A-line skirt (head to Chapter 9 to see a range of skirt styles). So that it can go from season to season, look for one that’s a lightweight wool.

Think how much you can do with the basic black skirt. Not only is black always flattering, but the outfit possibilities are endless — a beautiful blouse, a gorgeous sweater, and high boots or pumps. You can pair a knee-length skirt with solids, such as a basic white cardigan set (see Figure 7-3) or with a fabulous print. If you keep the outfit simple, you can liven it up with great jewelry or a great bag.

Figure 7-3: The basic black skirt and sweater set — always chic and classic.

Classic beige trench coat

The classic trench is a necessary staple because it never goes out of style and you can wear it in just about any season — spring, summer, fall, and, depending on the winter temperatures where you live, some- times winter. If you stick to a classic trench coat, it will last you for years. When choosing a trench coat, follow these suggestions:

✓ Make sure the coat fits in the shoulders. You don’t want to be drowning in your coat. You should always be wearing your clothes; they should not be wearing you.

✓ Choose a style and length that gives you the look you want. Decide whether you want it to cinch at the waist or be looser fit. A belted trench flatters your waistline in contrast to your shoulders and the overall volumeof the coat itself. If you plan to wear it over dresses and pants, make sure it’s long enough that your dresses aren’t sticking out the bottom. You can get away with a shorter trench if you are only going to wear it with pants or jeans (see Figure 7-4).

✓ Make sure the coat doesn’t overwhelm you. If you’re on the smaller side, pick a coat that’s less busy, that is, has less going on with the pockets, lapels, buttons, and so on, and make sure it’s single-breasted. If you’re taller, you can carry off a more traditional looking double- breasted trench.

Because you’ll probably buy only one trench coat, make sure it goes with everything in your closet and that it’s a length to give you the look you want.

Figure 7-4: Make sure you wear the trench and that it doesn’t wear you!

Black leather bag

You can look at a bag as something handy to carry your makeup, cell phone, and other necessities, or you can look at it as a great way to show off your sense of style. Or better yet, why not have both! Most women buy one great bag for the season and carry it everywhere.

A black leather bag is a perfect everywhere bag, a bag you can wear to work, to lunch, to dinner, and even shopping on the weekend. It goes with everything, and you’ll feel comfortable using it with whatever color or prints you may be wearing. It should be medium-sized: large enough to hold whatever you need during the day but not so large that it looks awkward if you find yourself running straight out to dinner with it.

I highly recommend having several bags in your arsenal so that you can accessorize your various outfits, but as a go-to bag for every day, the black leather bag is key. You live out of your bag, so this isn’t an item to skimp on. And just the way you notice every other woman’s bag, every other woman will be taking notice of yours, so make sure it gives a good first impression of you!

Quality blue jeans

Everyone should have a pair of favorite jeans — you know, the kind of jeans that make you feel sexy, pulled together, and comfortable. These jeans should be current in style, and the cut should be one that flatters your best assets. The great news is that nowadays jeans companies are making jeans to accommodate every body type. So figure out what your body type is (refer to Chapter 3 for help), then pick the cut of your jeans accordingly. Some suggestions:

✓ If you have great legs, you may want a pair of skinny jeans.

✓ If you want to direct attention away from your waist area, choose a flared jean.

✓ If you have a great waistline and want to draw attention to it, go for a pair of high-waisted jeans.

Jeans can get a little pricey, but you can still get a great pair for around, or even under, $100. And always check the sale section because jeans do actually go on sale — a great price break if you can find your size. If you are only investing in one pair of jeans, go with dark denim. They are more slimming and more versatile. You can wear them totally casual during the day, and you can dress them up for night.

Pair of black pumps

Every woman needs a pair of “go to” shoes. Along the same lines as the little black dress and the black skirt, a pair of black pumps serves you well. Black pumps go with everything, they won’t get too dirty, and they can also go from day to night. If you can afford only one pair of black pumps, go with a dressier pair; shoes are generally easier to dress down than to dress up.

When buying shoes, make sure they’re comfortable! Don’t expect them to “break in.” You’re going to spend some money on them because shoes tend to cost a bit more, so please, please, please make sure they fit right. For more on sizing shoes, head to Chapter 16.

White and black cardigan sweaters

Cardigan sweaters are great for those times when you don’t know what the weather will be like or if it’s the middle of summer and you get stuck in a ridiculously cold air-conditioned restaurant or office. If you get warm, you can always throw the cardigan over your shoulders and tie around your neck, and if you’re chilly, you can wear it.

If you can afford it, get your cardigans in a light cashmere. If you can’t afford cashmere, a great cotton does the trick! Whether cotton or cashmere, a good- quality cardigan sweater should last a very long time. You can find great cardigans at a store like Gap or Old Navy for a very reasonable price. (Target also has great ones.) You should be able to purchase a cotton cardigan for $50 or less.

Want more than black and white? Cardigans come in all sorts of other colors. Spring is a great time to buy cotton cardigans, which are generally a spring item and the stores will be well stocked. You can buy cashmere whenever; they generally have seasonal colors, too.

 

Figure 7-5: Pearls are not just for Grandma.

Set of pearls

A set of pearls can be a beautiful accent to any outfit. They’re perfect for the office and for a formal affair. Obviously, real pearls are expensive, so if you can borrow from Grandma — lucky you! If not, you can buy fakes. Just play around with them.

Pearls aren’t just for those who prefer classic styles. There are many ways to wear them, and a long strand can be worn with a funkier outfit. Remember, they don’t have to look like your grandma’s pearls if your outfit isn’t like grandma’s (see Figure 7-5).

You can get a nice strand of pearls that will do the trick at a good trimmings store. Try layering a few strands. M&J Trimming sells them for $10 each. If you’re not able to visit the New York store, get them online at www.mjtrim.com.

Diamond studs, or shall we say cubics!

You definitely don’t want to leave your ears bare, and diamond studs go perfectly with everything. If you are heading to work in a suit and then out at night in jeans and a blouse, studs are the perfect complement. They’re classy, and you can throw them on without worrying whether they go with what you’re wearing because diamonds go with everything!

Don’t have the money for genuine diamonds studs? Don’t worry. Buy cubic zirconia instead; just keep them small.

Making the Most of Your Shopping Excursions

In real estate, it’s location, location, location. In clothes shopping, it’s focus, focus, focus. If you know what you want and how much you want to spend for it, every shopping expedition can work like a well-oiled machine. But if you shop with your eyes darting at every item that attracts your attention, you can be sure that you’re going to wind up buying the wrong items for your wardrobe. The time to act like a kid in a candy store is . . . when you’re a kid in a candy store.

Budgeting for your fashion wardrobe It’s possible to spend an almost unlimited amount of money on clothes. After all, Imelda Marcos, former first lady of the Philippines, left behind over 1,200 pairs of shoes when she had to flee the presidential palace. Throw jewelry into the mix, and she spent even more. But most of us don’t have unlimited budgets. The trick is to dress fashionably within your budget.

To paraphrase Mick Jagger, you can’t always get what you want, but if you try, you can usually get what you need. The first thing to do when putting together a clothing budget is to figure out what you need versus what you want. If you don’t have a black blazer, for example, then that’s a need. If you have a black blazer, but you’d like a new one by Ralph Lauren, that’s a want. When you think about how much to budget, be willing to spend more on the must-have items because they need to last a long time. Consider these purchases investments.

The next thing to do is to determine how much you have available to spend. If you have enough to afford both what you need and what you want, lucky you. If not, focus on the needs. As explained earlier, they form the basis of your wardrobe and, because of their versatility, can be worn in a variety of situations and expand your wardrobe. What should you do with your list of wants? Write them down on a piece of paper that you keep with you when you go shopping, in case you see an item from your want list on sale.

Many people don’t bother with a clothing budget, and that’s a mistake. Using a budget — that is, knowing how much you can spend on an item and keeping track of when you spend more or less — allows you to buy more clothes, not less. If you know you saved money on a pair of black pumps, for example, you can add your savings to the money you’re putting away for the diamond studs, and eventually you’ll get them. But if you don’t keep track, then those studs will always remain far off in the distance.

Figure out how much you can pay before looking for a particular article of clothing. By having a top price in mind while you’re going through the racks, you can eliminate anything that costs a lot more, thus saving you time.

The following sections explain how to get the most for your hard-earned money.

Focusing on quality

When it comes to building your wardrobe, quality is more important than quantity for two basic reasons: One, better-quality clothing lasts longer. If you spend twice as much for a trench coat and it lasts you three times as long as a cheaper coat, you’re actually ahead of the game. True story: The year I graduated from the University of Michigan, I used most of my graduation money to buy a black, Prada-belted raincoat that goes with everything. That was over ten years ago, and I still wear that same raincoat. The point? Investing in fine, good clothing is a bargain. I would rather you buy one fabulous item and mix and match it than ten that are just “eh.”

So does that mean you should buy the $25 pair of plastic flip-flops rather than the 99-cent store variety? Absolutely not. Sometimes it makes sense to buy an item that is less expensive (when an item is trendy, for example, or when it’s made of a material that doesn’t shout out “This only costs $10!”). But more often than not, a quality item will be recognized for what it is, and it doesn’t need a fancy label for that to happen. (I don’t encourage wearing items that scream a certain designer anyway.) Even if people don’t know exactly why one leather bag stands out more than others, they can still tell the difference. And trust me, you’ll feel great every time you wear that great investment piece that you waited to buy.

Shopping to look, not to buy

In English, we call it window-shopping. In French, it’s called leche carreau, which translates into “window licking” (when you think about it, it’s an apt term for the fabulous windows in the Parisian fashion houses like Dior, Chanel, and Hermes that can easily cause you to drool when the prices may make it impossible for you to buy). But window-shopping serves a greater function than just being a way to spend a Saturday afternoon when you don’t have money to spend. If you approach it as a learning experience rather than a shopping trip, it can be time very well spent. To get the most of your window shopping excursions, do the following:

✓ Adjust your attitude. When browsing, don’t let yourself get frustrated because you can’t plunk down the cash for everything that you see or try on.

✓ Don’t stay out of high-end department stores or boutiques because you can’t afford to buy. These stores shouldn’t intimidate you, nor

should you think that you shouldn’t try anything on if you can’t afford to buy. You should try on designer clothing if you fall in love with it. Doing so gives you an idea of what you’re looking for, and perhaps you’ll find

a similar look in another store that is in your price-range. Knowledge is power, and if you see something you like, try it on! Trust me, the fashion police are not going to come and get you just because you had no intention of buying.

✓ Comparison shop. You know that you’re eventually going to buy something, so think of window-shopping as preparation. You no doubt already comparison shop for big-ticket items. Not many of us buy the first car we see. Window-shopping gives you the same opportunity with clothing: It lets you make sure that you’re getting the best item for your needs.

✓ Understand how anticipation can increase the ultimate satisfaction you feel when you do eventually buy. As you slowly narrow down your search (taking your time is important) and as the moment of purchase actually approaches, you’ll feel more and more excited, and the purchase itself will give you that much more satisfaction — certainly more than if you just ran into a store, grabbed a few things, and took them home.

Choosing your wingman (or woman)

Sometimes you go shopping to buy a specific item, and other times you go shopping to, well, just go shopping. Some people like to hunt solo (which is totally cool if you are 100 percent confident in your judgment), and others need approval on every hair band purchased. Most of us fall somewhere between the two extremes. So what type of person do you need by your side when trying to find whatever you are looking for that day?

Choosing a friend

The best people to take shopping with you are the people who

✓ Make you feel secure

✓ Have your best interests at heart

✓ Give you his or her honest opinion

✓ Knows what you can and can’t afford

If the person you are with fits these requirements, you are sure to walk out with only 10s for your closet.

In his comic strip, poor Dagwood is often shown shopping with his wife, burdened down with a mountain of packages. While a husband may make a good schlepper, most husbands, boyfriends, or partners may not want the role of the professional bag-carrier. So should you or shouldn’t you shop with your significant other? If he (or she) does all the things in the preceding list, go for it.

Shopping with a sales associate

Whether you know what you’re looking for or not, a sales associate can be very helpful to you. She knows what merchandise is in the store better than anyone and can direct you efficiently to areas that may be just what you’re looking for. Sales associates also know what’s trendy or current, and they can make your shopping experience a whole lot easier.

The thing to be careful of when working with a sales associate is overspending. If you stay focused, the salesperson can expedite shopping for you. But if you’re aimlessly wandering and vulnerable to outside influences, especially if you’re on your own, you could end up spending a whole lot more than you bargained for. Make sure that you shop in stores where you can return the merchandise without a problem.

Many times sales associates work on commission. Although you’re looking for the approval of another person, it’s hard to fully trust someone you know benefits from the sale. The best advice I can give is if you love an item, see if it is refundable, buy it, and then try it on at home or in front of someone you truly trust.

Keeping up the pace: Shopping tempo

As you may have observed, most retail establishments don’t have clocks in clear view. Why? Because retailers know that if you feel rushed, you’re likely to make fewer purchases. Which should tell you something about choosing your shopping tempo. Dawdle too long, and you’re probably going to end up buying something that you’ll later regret. Certainly you don’t want to make mistakes because you were rushing around too quickly, but if you are back and forth about a certain item, chances are it is not a must-have. Remember, the 10s (refer to Chapter 2) should be obvious in the mirror when you try them on!

Having a hard time making up your mind? There’s nothing wrong with leaving the store and taking some time to think about it. Almost every store will hold things, unless they’re on sale, for at least 24 hours. If you leave the store and are still thinking about the garment the next day, chances are you really want it. If you haven’t given it a second thought, then lucky you didn’t buy it because you obviously didn’t love it enough anyway.

Checking out the details

Okay, so you’ve found a fabulous must-have. Good for you! But before swiping your credit card, you need to take a few more steps:

✓ Carefully examine the garment. Check for any signs of damage. Make sure any closures, especially zippers, are in working order.

If you do find a small defect, don’t be too quick to put the garment aside.

If it’s small enough that no one looking at it could detect it, you may be able to show it to a floor manager, get a decent price reduction, and walk out with quite a bargain. If an item isn’t perfect, 10 to 20 percent is a fair discount to ask for, depending on the damage. If the item is just dirty, stores often give you 10 percent off for dry-cleaning.

✓ If you didn’t actually try on the garment, make sure it wasn’t mislabeled. There may be a different size on the inside than is marked on the store label, for example.

Knowing Where to Shop

Many places try to get you to spend your hard-earned dollars in their retail emporium. Each type offers different advantages and disadvantages, and you should know what options are near you so that you can make an informed choice of where to purchase your clothes.

Department stores

Department stores offer you the biggest selection of clothes to choose from, which can definitely be a time saver. Many department stores are part of national chains, like Macy’s, which because of their buying power, can offer attractive prices. A department store is also a one-stop shop, so that you can buy not only clothes, but also shoes, accessories, coats, and jewelry. But sometimes having so much to choose from can end up being confusing and make it harder to decide. And the sales help in a department store can be hit or miss.

Each department store is slightly different, some being more upscale than others. They all have sales, so you can save money on quality clothes if you’re willing to be patient. It’s also very easy to return clothes because even if you’re not nearby the store from which you actually purchased the item, you can return it to a different branch.

Dressing room etiquette

The advantage of shopping in a store is that you can try on the clothes before buying them (duh!). That means going into a dressing room, which should be a straightforward enough activity, right? But there are rules, especially if you’re shopping in a store you go to often. If you bring in a large amount of clothing, put the items back on the hanger after you’re done trying them on. It doesn’t have to be perfectly done, but leav- ing a mess in the dressing room is not proper etiquette, nor does it fit in with the fabulous

new you. Also, don’t be afraid to ask for bigger or smaller sizes, other items that you remember seeing, and heels (or flats) in your size to see how that particular outfit will look. At some of the less-expensive chain stores, you will not have the luxury of a tailor or shoe options to try on, but at department stores you should be able to reap many of the benefits. After all, if you’re paying for something, you should get what you pay for.

Inexpensive and trendy stores

Let’s face it — everyone wants a bargain, but no one wants to look like they’re wearing hand-me-downs. Luckily, several chains offer the hottest clothes at really affordable prices. H&M, the Swedish chain that first spread across Europe, has landed in America and is quickly spreading itself from sea to shining sea. Forever 21 was founded in Los Angeles and now has over 1,500 stores across the country. Other popular chains include Wet Seal, Charlotte Russe, and Urban Outfitters.

These types of stores are great places to buy trendy items. While you may occasionally be able to find classic pieces in these places, their real forte involves fun jewelry, layering T-shirts, and look-at-me tops.

Fashion boutiques

Chain stores have buyers who shop for the entire chain. The buyers for boutique stores, often the owner, shop only for their boutiques. Although boutique buyers could choose the same dress that you’d find in Macy’s, usually fashion boutiques offer items that aren’t being sold everywhere else. Boutiques also generally have a much smaller quantity of merchandise, and, even if they do have the same dress that’s in Bloomingdale’s, it’s probably at a higher price.

There are many more boutiques than department stores, and each one has its own personal vision. Most feature trendier items mixed with more classic pieces. The main advantage a boutique offers is service. The sales associate is both knowledgeable and helpful. And if you’re a regular customer, she’ll probably learn your tastes and may let you know when a new piece has arrived that she thinks you’ll like. Boutique prices may be a bit higher, but your overall shopping experience will also be quite pleasant. If you don’t have to worry too much about what you spend, a boutique could be the ideal place for you to shop.

Boutique shopping is a great way to help form your personal style. Most boutiques help you focus on what you like and are not as overwhelming as department stores.

Catalogues

The first mail-order catalogue was created by none other than Ben Franklin in 1744. Although he was selling academic books, catalogue shopping has been a convenient alternative ever since (even though online shopping is now giving catalogues a run for their money).

Since you can’t touch or try on the clothes that you buy through a catalogue, you have to trust the catalogue company to do a good job in offering you quality merchandise. Many catalogue companies have thrived doing just that. Yes, you can send anything you buy back, in some cases even years later, but the repacking and mailing process is a pain. On the other hand, you can leaf through a catalogue while commuting or in bed.

The Internet

Shopping for clothes online can be very efficient, saving you the time it takes to get to the store(s), the cost of gas, and the wear and tear that a day of shop- ping takes on your body. Shopping online also eliminates having to fight your way through the crowds and increases your chances of saving a bundle of money because of the fierce competition between online markets. In addition to the savings, you get immediate access to the widest possible selection of merchandise, and you can shop whenever you want to, even at 3 o’clock in the morning. So why doesn’t everyone shop online? Usually for these reasons:

✓ You can’t try on the clothing. Of course, you can try it on after you buy it and (most of the time) send it back if it doesn’t work out. But that can take days or weeks and you have to put in the effort of rewrapping it and going to the post office. If you were in an actual dressing room, all you’d have to do is put it back on the rack.

✓ You don’t get to feel the material and look closely at the way the garment has been made. Chapter 4 has information on why garment construction is important.

Do what many online buyers do: Go to an actual brick-and-mortar store to try on and touch the merchandise and then go home and look for the cheapest price online.

✓ You may have to pay extra for shipping costs. Many online stores these

days try to lure you to make a purchase by offering free shipping. Just

double-check that you don’t have to pay for shipping if you have to send something back.

✓ You have to pay by credit card. Many people shy away from buying goods online because they’re afraid of giving out their credit card number. Of course many of those same people gladly hand their card to a waiter who could easily write down the number as well as the security code. While online shopping is usually safe and millions shop online with their credit card every day, the possibility does exist for fraud; however, because of the Fair Credit Billing Act, your financial risk for unauthorized use is limited to $50.

Because the e-retail industry knows that this fear is holding many people back, retailers are coming up with various ways to increase the public’s confidence. The buy SAFE Web site rates over 300,000 e-retailers. Those that have passed its standards (which include examining each site’s encryption procedures) are allowed to display the buy SAFE logo (see Figure 7-6). buy SAFE also has its own shopping portal which provides a $25,000 bond on each purchase and 30 days worth of ID theft protection insurance.

Another solution is to use PayPal. Your credit information is stored on PayPal’s server, and PayPal pays the merchant, so your credit information remains in one secure place and is not given to the merchants.

Not every online site accepts PayPal, but more and more are doing so. Another alternative is to buy a gift card, which both MasterCard and Visa offer. The gift cards do have limitations and fees, but as with PayPal, the company from which you’re purchasing doesn’t get to see your credit card number.

Figure 7-6: A buy SAFE logo.

Where to look

Almost every major clothing store has a Web site where you can purchase everything featured in its stores, and then some. No matter where you live, you can shop online at any store across the country and around the world. In addition to Web sites associated with the big clothing stores, thousands of online stores aren’t associated with so-called brick-and-mortar stores. These stores carry clothing that you can’t find anywhere else. So the more important question when shopping online is not how broad a selection there is but how to narrow it down so that you don’t get overwhelmed. There’s no easy answer, but you can employ a couple different strategies:

✓ Search by store. Type names of stores you already know (like Macy’s or Bloomingdale’s) into your browser, then search the site for the item you’re looking for. The downside of this strategy is that you’ll see only what that particular store offers and you may not be getting the lowest possible price.

✓ Let someone else narrow down the possibilities. If you use Google Directory (www.google.com/dirhp), for example, and look under Shopping and then select Clothing, you get a list to choose from of every type of clothing, ranked by popularity (in Google). Just because a site is popular doesn’t guarantee that you’ll find anything you like, but it’s a good way to narrow down the sites you visit. (Of course on the Web, “narrow down” is a relative term. At the time I wrote this, Google offered 324 sites under the women’s clothing category alone. So while this strategy does narrow things down a bit, it’s still a large selection, and one you couldn’t possibly go through in one sitting.)

Mark your favorite sites so you can easily go back to them later. If you find a Web site that you like and know you’ll want to go back to it, put it on your Favorites list or bookmark it.

Making allies online

While online shopping may tend to be a solitary pleasure, you don’t really have to tackle this job all by yourself. There are two sets of allies that you can use to help you: family and friends (of course) and bloggers.

✓ Friends and family members: Let’s say you just spent an hour checking out some new Web sites that sell clothes. Make a list of the places you visited and your opinions about those places (“good selection of shoes, not much in the way of plus sizes, and so on”) and send that list to your allies in shopping. If they return the favor for sites they visit, you’ll soon have a good list of sites worth visiting, as well as those to stay away from.

✓ Bloggers: While you may not have the time to visit a lot of Web sites, bloggers do. It’s not hard to find fashion bloggers because most of them link to each other’s blogs, so if you find one, you’ll quickly be able to see who the other major bloggers are. They all have their specialties, and you’ll soon learn which blogs you want to check regularly for sales and other fashion tips. If you love fashion, reading all these blogs can become addictive, so try to be selective.

To get started, go to Google (or your favorite search engine like Yahoo or AOL) and type in fashion blog to see a list. The ones listed at the top generally include sites that offer a directory of fashion blogs: www. apparelsearch.com/Fashion/Fashion_Blogs.htm and nymag. com/daily/fashion are two available directories as of this writing.

One easy way to see what’s new on the blogs is to use RSS feeds, which are basically updates sent out by Web sites. You need a place to assemble these feeds, like Netvibes (www.netvibes.com). After you open an account, which is easy and free, you can create a fashion area and subscribe to the RSS feed on your favorite blogs. Then all you have to do is go to your Netvibes site to quickly see all the updates from the blogs you’ve selected. This can be a real time saver.

Vintage and consignment stores

When people clean out their closets, looking to give worn-out pieces to char- ity, they usually give to an organization like The Salvation Army. But vintage clothing takes quite a different path. Just like a boutique owner shops for items that she likes among the clothing manufacturers, the owner of a vintage store looks for used clothing that stands out. Now there are thrift shops that represent charities where people may donate designer clothing, and if you have one in your neighborhood, great. But keep in mind that shopping in a vintage clothing store is not something you do to save money (not everything in a vintage store is inexpensive; in fact, it can be the opposite), but because you expect to find unique items to help you define your own personal style.

✓ Quality vintage clothing shops. At these shops, you’ll likely find original Dior, Chanel, and other very high-end designer dresses, blouses, skirts, and more. These pieces are great to have. Chances are there aren’t any others like them still around, so you never have to worry about being

in the same dress as anyone else at the party. These vintage pieces are also a great way to express your sense of style. They show that you’re savvy enough to appreciate fine designer workmanship and bold enough to wear something different from everyone else. As far as cost, each piece is unique and is priced based on the designer, the workmanship, and the condition of the garment.

In some cases, you will be able to find a vintage designer piece for less than the original cost, but in others, the price could be very high. So don’t go vintage shopping thinking that used means you’ll get a bargain. In many cases the items have only been worn a few times, if at all. Just like classic wardrobe essentials though, a great vintage piece will stand

the test of time, and if it’s in your budget, it could be well worth the investment.

✓ Thrift stores. These stores are another option when looking for vintage clothing. Chances are good that you won’t find the most high-end pieces there, but you never know what you may come across if you take the time to search through the merchandise.

✓ Consignment stores. People who drop off clothes to these stores expect to get money for them when the clothes are sold. The people running such stores only take clothes that are in good shape, so the price may be a little higher, as both the store and the owner expect to make some money. Still the selection is decent and the prices still very reasonable.

Sample sales

What happens to the designer wear that’s made to be shown to buyers but doesn’t get sold? Since they cost a fortune to make (because they’re all hand-made), rather than let them go to waste, they’re sold in what are called sample sales. While you may only know the very top names in fashions, liter- ally hundreds of designers work in the fashion industry with their own lines, and they all have sample sales, so there can be lots to choose from, though obviously you can’t expect to find a wide variety of sizes as these clothes were made to be worn by models.

To find out where the latest sample sales are being held, go to www.top button.com. This site is free, but you have to register. Otherwise, you can purchase a copy of New York Magazine or Time Out New York at the newsstand. You can also find sample sales in other cities like Los Angeles, Chicago, and Boston, but there aren’t as many as in New York. Check www.dailycandy.com, which covers all the big cities across the U.S. and always has information on sample sales, boutique openings, and more.

You can even find sample sales online now. Certain Web sites have sales last- ing for 48 hours or so for designer merchandise. The good news is that the merchandise for sale isn’t just samples; the sites have excess stock, so you have a better chance of getting your size. A couple of good ones to check out are www.hautelook.com and www.gilt.com. After you register, you’ll get e-mails about upcoming sales.

Controlling Your Inner Shopaholic

A shopaholic is a person who needs to shop and does it excessively. If you’ve got the time and the bank account to afford to use shopping as a form of entertainment or therapy, then more power to you. But most of us don’t, and so allocating large chunks of both time and money to shopping for clothes poses dangers to those who get so caught up shopping that they leave reality behind and end up with bulging closets and skeleton-thin wallets. This section may not be able to help shopaholics lose their addiction to shopping, but it can help you improve your shopping experience and cut down both the time and money you spend to create a fashionable wardrobe.

Making a list and checking it twice

I know what you’re thinking, “Does she really think that every time I go to the mall or my favorite store, I’m going to make a list of what I need and stick to it?” Well, that is sort of what I’m saying, but hear me out.

Most people make a shopping list before going to the supermarket, for sev- eral reasons, the most important of which is so that, when they actually return home, they have what they need. The same idea applies to clothes shopping.

Many of us shop as a way to blow off steam and brighten the day a little. And that’s okay — sometimes. The key is that you have to be smart about it. Here’s a strategy you can use to make your shopping trips more productive, without losing all the spontaneity and fun:

1. With our list of “must-haves” in mind, take inventory of your closet (refer to the earlier section “Wardrobe Essentials”).

When scanning your closet, make sure every item you keep is a 10 — meaning each of your staple items must be the right fabric, must fit you perfectly, and must look like you bought it at the start of the season (even if you didn’t).

2. Make a list of what you actually need in your wardrobe.

If you’re into gadgets, feel free to make this list electronically.

3. The next time you feel like just buying something, like so many of us do, buy something from the list.

That way, you still get the boost of a shopping pick-me-up and are productive at the same time, because in the process you got something you needed.

Having a wish-list of items that you want to save up for, hope for as a gift, or want in a less-expensive version is totally appropriate (and fun!). Some people have a folder of tear-outs from magazines of things they would kill for — and you never know when those items may go on sale. If you’re one of these people, you may not need a tangible list (when you see it you’ll know it), but it’s good to have these items stored in the back of your head for those “you never know” times!

Spur-of-the-moment shopping without busting the bank

Now I know what you’re thinking: You have a big party Saturday night, and you really want to buy something new to wear. Trust me, I get it! Before you run out and impulsively buy an expensive new dress, try this: Go into your closet and pick out the dress that already fits you perfectly and hugs you in all the right places. Then hit the stores with that dress in mind and look for a statement necklace or a pair of beautiful chandelier earrings to spice it up. Going in with this approach lets you add another dimension to your ward- robe, because not only will you have a knockout necklace for your big party, but next week, you can wear that same piece of jewelry with jeans and a white T-shirt! Often, you’ll find that just buying something new gives you that natural high.

You can also look at sales racks. Because something is on sale doesn’t mean it’s of poor quality. Great pieces that don’t move in a certain amount of time are forced onto the sales rack to make space for new inventory. When you scan the sales rack, keep the basics on your mind. That perfect pencil skirt is often waiting right there. The sales rack is also good for those impulse pur- chases. If you see a trendy item that you want but know won’t last through the season, buy it on sale.

Electronic aids

Use electronic devices — digital cameras or phones with cameras, for example — to help avoid buying something you’ll regret or don’t need:

✓ Take a picture of a top or skirt in your closet that you’re looking to match. This way when you are in the mall, you can refer to the picture while on your hunt.

✓ Need a second opinion? Camera phones can help. It’s always a good idea to e-mail a friend who is honest if you are teetering on buying that perfect outfit (especially if it’s not refundable!).

Many stores don’t allow you to take photos of yourself in their clothing, but some don’t make a fuss. Many high-end stores (especially boutiques) enforce this rule because they don’t want people taking pictures of their items and then copying their designs. So if you try to take a picture and the salesperson tells you they don’t allow it, just apologize and put your camera away. If the salesperson doesn’t mind and thinks you’re a serious buyer who’s just getting reinforcement from a trusted friend, she may even take the picture!

Building Your Wardrobe: Your What- and Where-to-Buy Guide

In This Chapter

▶ The must-have basics

▶ Where to shop and how to do so without busting the bank

When is the best time to shop? Hmmm…that’s a tough question to answer, right? Here’s the basic rule to follow (unless you’re facing an extreme circumstance, and I mean extreme): Don’t go on a shopping frenzy if you’re feeling down, bloated, or bored. Although you may think these seem like the perfect scenarios to soothe yourself in a time of distress, they’re not. If you’re reading this while in a relatively calm frame of mind, you know where I’m coming from. With that said, for many of us, shopping does the trick when we need a lift, but then the focus should be on what you buy, not how much you buy.

This chapter explains what to do (and not do) to ensure that your forays into clothing shops leave you feeling good and owning items you need, want, look good in, and can afford. It also explains what items you should look for if your closet doesn’t already have them.

Wardrobe Staples

There are some items that you absolutely need. These make up the basis of your wardrobe; they’re the must haves, no matter what your style. I call them wardrobe essentials. To be considered a wardrobe essential, an article of clothing has to have several important attributes:

✓ It must be versatile. This is the most important quality of an essential piece of clothing. One key factor in versatility is color. Because ward- robe essentials have to go with lots of other clothing, they tend to be monochromatic and neutral in color. They also must work with different outfits. A blazer that you can pair with a skirt, pants, or a pair of jeans is a good example.

✓ It has to be of good, perhaps even exceptional, quality. A wardrobe essential makes a statement, and anyone looking should be able to tell that it’s top shelf. High quality also means that it wears well — very important for a garment that you’ll rely on again and again.

✓ It should be in a classic style. You don’t want your wardrobe essentials to ever really go out of fashion.

✓ It must be a 10. These garments, like everything in your closet, should have all the qualities of a 10 (refer to Chapter 2), and because they form the basis of your stylish wardrobe, it’s okay to spend a little more for these than you would other, less essential, items.

So what are the basic wardrobe essentials? Read on.

A lot of the items in the following list are black. Why? Because black provides a clean slate on which to build your outfit. Black garments offer many pluses: No one knows how often you wear them. Stains are difficult, if not impossible, to see. The color is flattering on every person and every body type. And with a black basic, you’re free to add color in other areas of your outfit and have fun with prints or great accessories.

Little black dress (LBD)

Ah, the little black dress. It should be sexy, yet sophisticated. It should be well-made and fit like a glove. It should hide your flaws and accentuate your attributes. It should go from day (wear it to the office with a cardigan or blazer and a set of pearls and leather pumps) to night (take off the blazer or cardigan and add some makeup, jewelry, and heels). Really, the little black dress, shown in Figure 7-1, is so versatile, it can go anywhere and be appropriate.

Choose a LBD in the style that suits you, makes you feel comfortable, and looks most like you. It can be sleeveless, have cap sleeves, or have 3⁄4-length sleeves. It can have a V-neck, boat neck, crew neck, or square neck. It can be knee-length, a little longer, a little shorter, or miniskirt length. Really, the LBD is both universal and individual at the same time. Find one that makes you feel fabulous and make the investment because this is one piece that really gives you your money’s worth!

Figure 7-1: Pearls and pumps make the LBD simple yet chic.

Black blazer

The black blazer is key in your wardrobe. Because it’s black, it goes with virtually every- thing. You can change the look just by changing the accessories. (And, as I mentioned previously, because it’s black, no one will notice how often you wear it.)

Although it doesn’t need to be ridiculously expensive or high-end, the blazer does need to fit you perfectly and work with your body type. If you want to appear taller or longer, choose a blazer that’s longer. If you want toaccentuate your beautiful waistline, make sure it’s fitted in the waist area. Also make sure it’s current. Avoid one that looks like something from the 80s — oversized with enormous shoulder pads.

Should you go with a double- or single- breasted blazer? My advice is choose a single- breasted one. You can wear a single-breasted blazer comfortably and fashionably either open or closed, and you have the option of wearing it over dresses or skirts, as well as pants. (Don’t underestimate the power of a black blazer and jeans. As Figure 7-2 shows it’s a classic look that can take you from day to night. It’s my go-to outfit when in doubt!)

Don’t be afraid to make the blazer your own: Add a favorite pin to the lapel if you want to jazz it up when the occasion calls for it. A black blazer doesn’t have to be boring. Again, it’s a basic that you can build your outfit around.

Figure 7-2: You can never go wrong with a black blazer and blue jeans.

Crisp, white button-down shirt

The white button-down shirt should fit you well. Nothing oversized here. At first glance, your white shirt may look no different than the one your husband or boyfriend wears under his suits, but yours is made and cut specifically for a woman. It should be flatter- ing and accentuate your best features. You can wear a white shirt on its own, tucked in or out, under a sweater, under a jacket, or as part of a suit. Keep the following things in mind as you decide on your white shirt:

✓ Style: The more expensive shirts look a little dressier and need to be pressed (otherwise, they look messy), but if you’re buying only one, a dressier shirt is the way to go because it’s more versatile. You can dress it up for work under a suit or on its own with slacks or a great skirt. Or you can dress it down by putting it under a sweater or with a pair of jeans. Less fancy shirts are also an option if you’re planning to wear the shirt only as casual dress. This type is good with jeans or tied at the waist over a bikini, for example. These shirts aren’t as structured and don’t need to be pressed.

If you have a great waist, buy a fitted shirt; if not, buy one that is cut straight.

✓ Material: Whether dressy or more casual, the white shirt is generally made of cotton. If you can, go for combed cotton, which means that longer fibers were used; these fibers are stronger and give the material a more luxurious appearance. Many shirts designed for office wear are made of cotton in an oxford weave. Although a comfortable type of cotton, these types of shirts don’t wear as well, and tend to pill at the collar and cuffs. Cotton broadcloth is sturdier and resists soiling.

✓ Construction: Because your collar is usually at eye level, make sure it’s sewn properly. Women’s button-down shirts don’t generally have actual buttons on the collar that button down to the shirt, so make sure there are no puckers in the material and that it lays flat.

Brooks Brothers (www.brooksbrothers.com) makes an iron-free, non- wrinkle shirt that you don’t have to dry clean. You can throw it in the dryer and it comes out looking perfect!

Black trousers

A pair of high-quality, flat front, black trousers are a necessity in every ward- robe. Stay away from pleats because they only accentuate an area that no one really needs accentuating! If you can buy only one pair of trousers, select a length that matches the heel height you most commonly wear. And choose a lightweight wool that will work in summer or winter.

If you can buy another pair of trousers, ivory is great to have (even in the winter). I love winter white! It’s such a refreshing change in the darker months, and it shows that you have style and are daring enough to let everyone know it.

Knee-length black skirt

Every woman should have a knee-length black skirt that fits perfectly and gives her a slim appearance. The particular style is up to you (and what looks good on your body type): It can be a pencil skirt or an A-line skirt (head to Chapter 9 to see a range of skirt styles). So that it can go from season to season, look for one that’s a lightweight wool.

Think how much you can do with the basic black skirt. Not only is black always flattering, but the outfit possibilities are endless — a beautiful blouse, a gorgeous sweater, and high boots or pumps. You can pair a knee-length skirt with solids, such as a basic white cardigan set (see Figure 7-3) or with a fabulous print. If you keep the outfit simple, you can liven it up with great jewelry or a great bag.

Figure 7-3: The basic black skirt and sweater set — always chic and classic.

Classic beige trench coat

The classic trench is a necessary staple because it never goes out of style and you can wear it in just about any season — spring, summer, fall, and, depending on the winter temperatures where you live, some- times winter. If you stick to a classic trench coat, it will last you for years. When choosing a trench coat, follow these suggestions:

✓ Make sure the coat fits in the shoulders. You don’t want to be drowning in your coat. You should always be wearing your clothes; they should not be wearing you.

✓ Choose a style and length that gives you the look you want. Decide whether you want it to cinch at the waist or be looser fit. A belted trench flatters your waistline in contrast to your shoulders and the overall volumeof the coat itself. If you plan to wear it over dresses and pants, make sure it’s long enough that your dresses aren’t sticking out the bottom. You can get away with a shorter trench if you are only going to wear it with pants or jeans (see Figure 7-4).

✓ Make sure the coat doesn’t overwhelm you. If you’re on the smaller side, pick a coat that’s less busy, that is, has less going on with the pockets, lapels, buttons, and so on, and make sure it’s single-breasted. If you’re taller, you can carry off a more traditional looking double- breasted trench.

Because you’ll probably buy only one trench coat, make sure it goes with everything in your closet and that it’s a length to give you the look you want.

Figure 7-4: Make sure you wear the trench and that it doesn’t wear you!

Black leather bag

You can look at a bag as something handy to carry your makeup, cell phone, and other necessities, or you can look at it as a great way to show off your sense of style. Or better yet, why not have both! Most women buy one great bag for the season and carry it everywhere.

A black leather bag is a perfect everywhere bag, a bag you can wear to work, to lunch, to dinner, and even shopping on the weekend. It goes with everything, and you’ll feel comfortable using it with whatever color or prints you may be wearing. It should be medium-sized: large enough to hold whatever you need during the day but not so large that it looks awkward if you find yourself running straight out to dinner with it.

I highly recommend having several bags in your arsenal so that you can accessorize your various outfits, but as a go-to bag for every day, the black leather bag is key. You live out of your bag, so this isn’t an item to skimp on. And just the way you notice every other woman’s bag, every other woman will be taking notice of yours, so make sure it gives a good first impression of you!

Quality blue jeans

Everyone should have a pair of favorite jeans — you know, the kind of jeans that make you feel sexy, pulled together, and comfortable. These jeans should be current in style, and the cut should be one that flatters your best assets. The great news is that nowadays jeans companies are making jeans to accommodate every body type. So figure out what your body type is (refer to Chapter 3 for help), then pick the cut of your jeans accordingly. Some suggestions:

✓ If you have great legs, you may want a pair of skinny jeans.

✓ If you want to direct attention away from your waist area, choose a flared jean.

✓ If you have a great waistline and want to draw attention to it, go for a pair of high-waisted jeans.

Jeans can get a little pricey, but you can still get a great pair for around, or even under, $100. And always check the sale section because jeans do actually go on sale — a great price break if you can find your size. If you are only investing in one pair of jeans, go with dark denim. They are more slimming and more versatile. You can wear them totally casual during the day, and you can dress them up for night.

Pair of black pumps

Every woman needs a pair of “go to” shoes. Along the same lines as the little black dress and the black skirt, a pair of black pumps serves you well. Black pumps go with everything, they won’t get too dirty, and they can also go from day to night. If you can afford only one pair of black pumps, go with a dressier pair; shoes are generally easier to dress down than to dress up.

When buying shoes, make sure they’re comfortable! Don’t expect them to “break in.” You’re going to spend some money on them because shoes tend to cost a bit more, so please, please, please make sure they fit right. For more on sizing shoes, head to Chapter 16.

White and black cardigan sweaters

Cardigan sweaters are great for those times when you don’t know what the weather will be like or if it’s the middle of summer and you get stuck in a ridiculously cold air-conditioned restaurant or office. If you get warm, you can always throw the cardigan over your shoulders and tie around your neck, and if you’re chilly, you can wear it.

If you can afford it, get your cardigans in a light cashmere. If you can’t afford cashmere, a great cotton does the trick! Whether cotton or cashmere, a good- quality cardigan sweater should last a very long time. You can find great cardigans at a store like Gap or Old Navy for a very reasonable price. (Target also has great ones.) You should be able to purchase a cotton cardigan for $50 or less.

Want more than black and white? Cardigans come in all sorts of other colors. Spring is a great time to buy cotton cardigans, which are generally a spring item and the stores will be well stocked. You can buy cashmere whenever; they generally have seasonal colors, too.

 

Figure 7-5: Pearls are not just for Grandma.

Set of pearls

A set of pearls can be a beautiful accent to any outfit. They’re perfect for the office and for a formal affair. Obviously, real pearls are expensive, so if you can borrow from Grandma — lucky you! If not, you can buy fakes. Just play around with them.

Pearls aren’t just for those who prefer classic styles. There are many ways to wear them, and a long strand can be worn with a funkier outfit. Remember, they don’t have to look like your grandma’s pearls if your outfit isn’t like grandma’s (see Figure 7-5).

You can get a nice strand of pearls that will do the trick at a good trimmings store. Try layering a few strands. M&J Trimming sells them for $10 each. If you’re not able to visit the New York store, get them online at www.mjtrim.com.

Diamond studs, or shall we say cubics!

You definitely don’t want to leave your ears bare, and diamond studs go perfectly with everything. If you are heading to work in a suit and then out at night in jeans and a blouse, studs are the perfect complement. They’re classy, and you can throw them on without worrying whether they go with what you’re wearing because diamonds go with everything!

Don’t have the money for genuine diamonds studs? Don’t worry. Buy cubic zirconia instead; just keep them small.

Making the Most of Your Shopping Excursions

In real estate, it’s location, location, location. In clothes shopping, it’s focus, focus, focus. If you know what you want and how much you want to spend for it, every shopping expedition can work like a well-oiled machine. But if you shop with your eyes darting at every item that attracts your attention, you can be sure that you’re going to wind up buying the wrong items for your wardrobe. The time to act like a kid in a candy store is . . . when you’re a kid in a candy store.

Budgeting for your fashion wardrobe It’s possible to spend an almost unlimited amount of money on clothes. After all, Imelda Marcos, former first lady of the Philippines, left behind over 1,200 pairs of shoes when she had to flee the presidential palace. Throw jewelry into the mix, and she spent even more. But most of us don’t have unlimited budgets. The trick is to dress fashionably within your budget.

To paraphrase Mick Jagger, you can’t always get what you want, but if you try, you can usually get what you need. The first thing to do when putting together a clothing budget is to figure out what you need versus what you want. If you don’t have a black blazer, for example, then that’s a need. If you have a black blazer, but you’d like a new one by Ralph Lauren, that’s a want. When you think about how much to budget, be willing to spend more on the must-have items because they need to last a long time. Consider these purchases investments.

The next thing to do is to determine how much you have available to spend. If you have enough to afford both what you need and what you want, lucky you. If not, focus on the needs. As explained earlier, they form the basis of your wardrobe and, because of their versatility, can be worn in a variety of situations and expand your wardrobe. What should you do with your list of wants? Write them down on a piece of paper that you keep with you when you go shopping, in case you see an item from your want list on sale.

Many people don’t bother with a clothing budget, and that’s a mistake. Using a budget — that is, knowing how much you can spend on an item and keeping track of when you spend more or less — allows you to buy more clothes, not less. If you know you saved money on a pair of black pumps, for example, you can add your savings to the money you’re putting away for the diamond studs, and eventually you’ll get them. But if you don’t keep track, then those studs will always remain far off in the distance.

Figure out how much you can pay before looking for a particular article of clothing. By having a top price in mind while you’re going through the racks, you can eliminate anything that costs a lot more, thus saving you time.

The following sections explain how to get the most for your hard-earned money.

Focusing on quality

When it comes to building your wardrobe, quality is more important than quantity for two basic reasons: One, better-quality clothing lasts longer. If you spend twice as much for a trench coat and it lasts you three times as long as a cheaper coat, you’re actually ahead of the game. True story: The year I graduated from the University of Michigan, I used most of my graduation money to buy a black, Prada-belted raincoat that goes with everything. That was over ten years ago, and I still wear that same raincoat. The point? Investing in fine, good clothing is a bargain. I would rather you buy one fabulous item and mix and match it than ten that are just “eh.”

So does that mean you should buy the $25 pair of plastic flip-flops rather than the 99-cent store variety? Absolutely not. Sometimes it makes sense to buy an item that is less expensive (when an item is trendy, for example, or when it’s made of a material that doesn’t shout out “This only costs $10!”). But more often than not, a quality item will be recognized for what it is, and it doesn’t need a fancy label for that to happen. (I don’t encourage wearing items that scream a certain designer anyway.) Even if people don’t know exactly why one leather bag stands out more than others, they can still tell the difference. And trust me, you’ll feel great every time you wear that great investment piece that you waited to buy.

Shopping to look, not to buy

In English, we call it window-shopping. In French, it’s called leche carreau, which translates into “window licking” (when you think about it, it’s an apt term for the fabulous windows in the Parisian fashion houses like Dior, Chanel, and Hermes that can easily cause you to drool when the prices may make it impossible for you to buy). But window-shopping serves a greater function than just being a way to spend a Saturday afternoon when you don’t have money to spend. If you approach it as a learning experience rather than a shopping trip, it can be time very well spent. To get the most of your window shopping excursions, do the following:

✓ Adjust your attitude. When browsing, don’t let yourself get frustrated because you can’t plunk down the cash for everything that you see or try on.

✓ Don’t stay out of high-end department stores or boutiques because you can’t afford to buy. These stores shouldn’t intimidate you, nor

should you think that you shouldn’t try anything on if you can’t afford to buy. You should try on designer clothing if you fall in love with it. Doing so gives you an idea of what you’re looking for, and perhaps you’ll find

a similar look in another store that is in your price-range. Knowledge is power, and if you see something you like, try it on! Trust me, the fashion police are not going to come and get you just because you had no intention of buying.

✓ Comparison shop. You know that you’re eventually going to buy something, so think of window-shopping as preparation. You no doubt already comparison shop for big-ticket items. Not many of us buy the first car we see. Window-shopping gives you the same opportunity with clothing: It lets you make sure that you’re getting the best item for your needs.

✓ Understand how anticipation can increase the ultimate satisfaction you feel when you do eventually buy. As you slowly narrow down your search (taking your time is important) and as the moment of purchase actually approaches, you’ll feel more and more excited, and the purchase itself will give you that much more satisfaction — certainly more than if you just ran into a store, grabbed a few things, and took them home.

Choosing your wingman (or woman)

Sometimes you go shopping to buy a specific item, and other times you go shopping to, well, just go shopping. Some people like to hunt solo (which is totally cool if you are 100 percent confident in your judgment), and others need approval on every hair band purchased. Most of us fall somewhere between the two extremes. So what type of person do you need by your side when trying to find whatever you are looking for that day?

Choosing a friend

The best people to take shopping with you are the people who

✓ Make you feel secure

✓ Have your best interests at heart

✓ Give you his or her honest opinion

✓ Knows what you can and can’t afford

If the person you are with fits these requirements, you are sure to walk out with only 10s for your closet.

In his comic strip, poor Dagwood is often shown shopping with his wife, burdened down with a mountain of packages. While a husband may make a good schlepper, most husbands, boyfriends, or partners may not want the role of the professional bag-carrier. So should you or shouldn’t you shop with your significant other? If he (or she) does all the things in the preceding list, go for it.

Shopping with a sales associate

Whether you know what you’re looking for or not, a sales associate can be very helpful to you. She knows what merchandise is in the store better than anyone and can direct you efficiently to areas that may be just what you’re looking for. Sales associates also know what’s trendy or current, and they can make your shopping experience a whole lot easier.

The thing to be careful of when working with a sales associate is overspending. If you stay focused, the salesperson can expedite shopping for you. But if you’re aimlessly wandering and vulnerable to outside influences, especially if you’re on your own, you could end up spending a whole lot more than you bargained for. Make sure that you shop in stores where you can return the merchandise without a problem.

Many times sales associates work on commission. Although you’re looking for the approval of another person, it’s hard to fully trust someone you know benefits from the sale. The best advice I can give is if you love an item, see if it is refundable, buy it, and then try it on at home or in front of someone you truly trust.

Keeping up the pace: Shopping tempo

As you may have observed, most retail establishments don’t have clocks in clear view. Why? Because retailers know that if you feel rushed, you’re likely to make fewer purchases. Which should tell you something about choosing your shopping tempo. Dawdle too long, and you’re probably going to end up buying something that you’ll later regret. Certainly you don’t want to make mistakes because you were rushing around too quickly, but if you are back and forth about a certain item, chances are it is not a must-have. Remember, the 10s (refer to Chapter 2) should be obvious in the mirror when you try them on!

Having a hard time making up your mind? There’s nothing wrong with leaving the store and taking some time to think about it. Almost every store will hold things, unless they’re on sale, for at least 24 hours. If you leave the store and are still thinking about the garment the next day, chances are you really want it. If you haven’t given it a second thought, then lucky you didn’t buy it because you obviously didn’t love it enough anyway.

Checking out the details

Okay, so you’ve found a fabulous must-have. Good for you! But before swiping your credit card, you need to take a few more steps:

✓ Carefully examine the garment. Check for any signs of damage. Make sure any closures, especially zippers, are in working order.

If you do find a small defect, don’t be too quick to put the garment aside.

If it’s small enough that no one looking at it could detect it, you may be able to show it to a floor manager, get a decent price reduction, and walk out with quite a bargain. If an item isn’t perfect, 10 to 20 percent is a fair discount to ask for, depending on the damage. If the item is just dirty, stores often give you 10 percent off for dry-cleaning.

✓ If you didn’t actually try on the garment, make sure it wasn’t mislabeled. There may be a different size on the inside than is marked on the store label, for example.

Knowing Where to Shop

Many places try to get you to spend your hard-earned dollars in their retail emporium. Each type offers different advantages and disadvantages, and you should know what options are near you so that you can make an informed choice of where to purchase your clothes.

Department stores

Department stores offer you the biggest selection of clothes to choose from, which can definitely be a time saver. Many department stores are part of national chains, like Macy’s, which because of their buying power, can offer attractive prices. A department store is also a one-stop shop, so that you can buy not only clothes, but also shoes, accessories, coats, and jewelry. But sometimes having so much to choose from can end up being confusing and make it harder to decide. And the sales help in a department store can be hit or miss.

Each department store is slightly different, some being more upscale than others. They all have sales, so you can save money on quality clothes if you’re willing to be patient. It’s also very easy to return clothes because even if you’re not nearby the store from which you actually purchased the item, you can return it to a different branch.

Dressing room etiquette

The advantage of shopping in a store is that you can try on the clothes before buying them (duh!). That means going into a dressing room, which should be a straightforward enough activity, right? But there are rules, especially if you’re shopping in a store you go to often. If you bring in a large amount of clothing, put the items back on the hanger after you’re done trying them on. It doesn’t have to be perfectly done, but leav- ing a mess in the dressing room is not proper etiquette, nor does it fit in with the fabulous

new you. Also, don’t be afraid to ask for bigger or smaller sizes, other items that you remember seeing, and heels (or flats) in your size to see how that particular outfit will look. At some of the less-expensive chain stores, you will not have the luxury of a tailor or shoe options to try on, but at department stores you should be able to reap many of the benefits. After all, if you’re paying for something, you should get what you pay for.

Inexpensive and trendy stores

Let’s face it — everyone wants a bargain, but no one wants to look like they’re wearing hand-me-downs. Luckily, several chains offer the hottest clothes at really affordable prices. H&M, the Swedish chain that first spread across Europe, has landed in America and is quickly spreading itself from sea to shining sea. Forever 21 was founded in Los Angeles and now has over 1,500 stores across the country. Other popular chains include Wet Seal, Charlotte Russe, and Urban Outfitters.

These types of stores are great places to buy trendy items. While you may occasionally be able to find classic pieces in these places, their real forte involves fun jewelry, layering T-shirts, and look-at-me tops.

Fashion boutiques

Chain stores have buyers who shop for the entire chain. The buyers for boutique stores, often the owner, shop only for their boutiques. Although boutique buyers could choose the same dress that you’d find in Macy’s, usually fashion boutiques offer items that aren’t being sold everywhere else. Boutiques also generally have a much smaller quantity of merchandise, and, even if they do have the same dress that’s in Bloomingdale’s, it’s probably at a higher price.

There are many more boutiques than department stores, and each one has its own personal vision. Most feature trendier items mixed with more classic pieces. The main advantage a boutique offers is service. The sales associate is both knowledgeable and helpful. And if you’re a regular customer, she’ll probably learn your tastes and may let you know when a new piece has arrived that she thinks you’ll like. Boutique prices may be a bit higher, but your overall shopping experience will also be quite pleasant. If you don’t have to worry too much about what you spend, a boutique could be the ideal place for you to shop.

Boutique shopping is a great way to help form your personal style. Most boutiques help you focus on what you like and are not as overwhelming as department stores.

Catalogues

The first mail-order catalogue was created by none other than Ben Franklin in 1744. Although he was selling academic books, catalogue shopping has been a convenient alternative ever since (even though online shopping is now giving catalogues a run for their money).

Since you can’t touch or try on the clothes that you buy through a catalogue, you have to trust the catalogue company to do a good job in offering you quality merchandise. Many catalogue companies have thrived doing just that. Yes, you can send anything you buy back, in some cases even years later, but the repacking and mailing process is a pain. On the other hand, you can leaf through a catalogue while commuting or in bed.

The Internet

Shopping for clothes online can be very efficient, saving you the time it takes to get to the store(s), the cost of gas, and the wear and tear that a day of shop- ping takes on your body. Shopping online also eliminates having to fight your way through the crowds and increases your chances of saving a bundle of money because of the fierce competition between online markets. In addition to the savings, you get immediate access to the widest possible selection of merchandise, and you can shop whenever you want to, even at 3 o’clock in the morning. So why doesn’t everyone shop online? Usually for these reasons:

✓ You can’t try on the clothing. Of course, you can try it on after you buy it and (most of the time) send it back if it doesn’t work out. But that can take days or weeks and you have to put in the effort of rewrapping it and going to the post office. If you were in an actual dressing room, all you’d have to do is put it back on the rack.

✓ You don’t get to feel the material and look closely at the way the garment has been made. Chapter 4 has information on why garment construction is important.

Do what many online buyers do: Go to an actual brick-and-mortar store to try on and touch the merchandise and then go home and look for the cheapest price online.

✓ You may have to pay extra for shipping costs. Many online stores these

days try to lure you to make a purchase by offering free shipping. Just

double-check that you don’t have to pay for shipping if you have to send something back.

✓ You have to pay by credit card. Many people shy away from buying goods online because they’re afraid of giving out their credit card number. Of course many of those same people gladly hand their card to a waiter who could easily write down the number as well as the security code. While online shopping is usually safe and millions shop online with their credit card every day, the possibility does exist for fraud; however, because of the Fair Credit Billing Act, your financial risk for unauthorized use is limited to $50.

Because the e-retail industry knows that this fear is holding many people back, retailers are coming up with various ways to increase the public’s confidence. The buy SAFE Web site rates over 300,000 e-retailers. Those that have passed its standards (which include examining each site’s encryption procedures) are allowed to display the buy SAFE logo (see Figure 7-6). buy SAFE also has its own shopping portal which provides a $25,000 bond on each purchase and 30 days worth of ID theft protection insurance.

Another solution is to use PayPal. Your credit information is stored on PayPal’s server, and PayPal pays the merchant, so your credit information remains in one secure place and is not given to the merchants.

Not every online site accepts PayPal, but more and more are doing so. Another alternative is to buy a gift card, which both MasterCard and Visa offer. The gift cards do have limitations and fees, but as with PayPal, the company from which you’re purchasing doesn’t get to see your credit card number.

Figure 7-6: A buy SAFE logo.

Where to look

Almost every major clothing store has a Web site where you can purchase everything featured in its stores, and then some. No matter where you live, you can shop online at any store across the country and around the world. In addition to Web sites associated with the big clothing stores, thousands of online stores aren’t associated with so-called brick-and-mortar stores. These stores carry clothing that you can’t find anywhere else. So the more important question when shopping online is not how broad a selection there is but how to narrow it down so that you don’t get overwhelmed. There’s no easy answer, but you can employ a couple different strategies:

✓ Search by store. Type names of stores you already know (like Macy’s or Bloomingdale’s) into your browser, then search the site for the item you’re looking for. The downside of this strategy is that you’ll see only what that particular store offers and you may not be getting the lowest possible price.

✓ Let someone else narrow down the possibilities. If you use Google Directory (www.google.com/dirhp), for example, and look under Shopping and then select Clothing, you get a list to choose from of every type of clothing, ranked by popularity (in Google). Just because a site is popular doesn’t guarantee that you’ll find anything you like, but it’s a good way to narrow down the sites you visit. (Of course on the Web, “narrow down” is a relative term. At the time I wrote this, Google offered 324 sites under the women’s clothing category alone. So while this strategy does narrow things down a bit, it’s still a large selection, and one you couldn’t possibly go through in one sitting.)

Mark your favorite sites so you can easily go back to them later. If you find a Web site that you like and know you’ll want to go back to it, put it on your Favorites list or bookmark it.

Making allies online

While online shopping may tend to be a solitary pleasure, you don’t really have to tackle this job all by yourself. There are two sets of allies that you can use to help you: family and friends (of course) and bloggers.

✓ Friends and family members: Let’s say you just spent an hour checking out some new Web sites that sell clothes. Make a list of the places you visited and your opinions about those places (“good selection of shoes, not much in the way of plus sizes, and so on”) and send that list to your allies in shopping. If they return the favor for sites they visit, you’ll soon have a good list of sites worth visiting, as well as those to stay away from.

✓ Bloggers: While you may not have the time to visit a lot of Web sites, bloggers do. It’s not hard to find fashion bloggers because most of them link to each other’s blogs, so if you find one, you’ll quickly be able to see who the other major bloggers are. They all have their specialties, and you’ll soon learn which blogs you want to check regularly for sales and other fashion tips. If you love fashion, reading all these blogs can become addictive, so try to be selective.

To get started, go to Google (or your favorite search engine like Yahoo or AOL) and type in fashion blog to see a list. The ones listed at the top generally include sites that offer a directory of fashion blogs: www. apparelsearch.com/Fashion/Fashion_Blogs.htm and nymag. com/daily/fashion are two available directories as of this writing.

One easy way to see what’s new on the blogs is to use RSS feeds, which are basically updates sent out by Web sites. You need a place to assemble these feeds, like Netvibes (www.netvibes.com). After you open an account, which is easy and free, you can create a fashion area and subscribe to the RSS feed on your favorite blogs. Then all you have to do is go to your Netvibes site to quickly see all the updates from the blogs you’ve selected. This can be a real time saver.

Vintage and consignment stores

When people clean out their closets, looking to give worn-out pieces to char- ity, they usually give to an organization like The Salvation Army. But vintage clothing takes quite a different path. Just like a boutique owner shops for items that she likes among the clothing manufacturers, the owner of a vintage store looks for used clothing that stands out. Now there are thrift shops that represent charities where people may donate designer clothing, and if you have one in your neighborhood, great. But keep in mind that shopping in a vintage clothing store is not something you do to save money (not everything in a vintage store is inexpensive; in fact, it can be the opposite), but because you expect to find unique items to help you define your own personal style.

✓ Quality vintage clothing shops. At these shops, you’ll likely find original Dior, Chanel, and other very high-end designer dresses, blouses, skirts, and more. These pieces are great to have. Chances are there aren’t any others like them still around, so you never have to worry about being

in the same dress as anyone else at the party. These vintage pieces are also a great way to express your sense of style. They show that you’re savvy enough to appreciate fine designer workmanship and bold enough to wear something different from everyone else. As far as cost, each piece is unique and is priced based on the designer, the workmanship, and the condition of the garment.

In some cases, you will be able to find a vintage designer piece for less than the original cost, but in others, the price could be very high. So don’t go vintage shopping thinking that used means you’ll get a bargain. In many cases the items have only been worn a few times, if at all. Just like classic wardrobe essentials though, a great vintage piece will stand

the test of time, and if it’s in your budget, it could be well worth the investment.

✓ Thrift stores. These stores are another option when looking for vintage clothing. Chances are good that you won’t find the most high-end pieces there, but you never know what you may come across if you take the time to search through the merchandise.

✓ Consignment stores. People who drop off clothes to these stores expect to get money for them when the clothes are sold. The people running such stores only take clothes that are in good shape, so the price may be a little higher, as both the store and the owner expect to make some money. Still the selection is decent and the prices still very reasonable.

Sample sales

What happens to the designer wear that’s made to be shown to buyers but doesn’t get sold? Since they cost a fortune to make (because they’re all hand-made), rather than let them go to waste, they’re sold in what are called sample sales. While you may only know the very top names in fashions, liter- ally hundreds of designers work in the fashion industry with their own lines, and they all have sample sales, so there can be lots to choose from, though obviously you can’t expect to find a wide variety of sizes as these clothes were made to be worn by models.

To find out where the latest sample sales are being held, go to www.top button.com. This site is free, but you have to register. Otherwise, you can purchase a copy of New York Magazine or Time Out New York at the newsstand. You can also find sample sales in other cities like Los Angeles, Chicago, and Boston, but there aren’t as many as in New York. Check www.dailycandy.com, which covers all the big cities across the U.S. and always has information on sample sales, boutique openings, and more.

You can even find sample sales online now. Certain Web sites have sales last- ing for 48 hours or so for designer merchandise. The good news is that the merchandise for sale isn’t just samples; the sites have excess stock, so you have a better chance of getting your size. A couple of good ones to check out are www.hautelook.com and www.gilt.com. After you register, you’ll get e-mails about upcoming sales.

Controlling Your Inner Shopaholic

A shopaholic is a person who needs to shop and does it excessively. If you’ve got the time and the bank account to afford to use shopping as a form of entertainment or therapy, then more power to you. But most of us don’t, and so allocating large chunks of both time and money to shopping for clothes poses dangers to those who get so caught up shopping that they leave reality behind and end up with bulging closets and skeleton-thin wallets. This section may not be able to help shopaholics lose their addiction to shopping, but it can help you improve your shopping experience and cut down both the time and money you spend to create a fashionable wardrobe.

Making a list and checking it twice

I know what you’re thinking, “Does she really think that every time I go to the mall or my favorite store, I’m going to make a list of what I need and stick to it?” Well, that is sort of what I’m saying, but hear me out.

Most people make a shopping list before going to the supermarket, for sev- eral reasons, the most important of which is so that, when they actually return home, they have what they need. The same idea applies to clothes shopping.

Many of us shop as a way to blow off steam and brighten the day a little. And that’s okay — sometimes. The key is that you have to be smart about it. Here’s a strategy you can use to make your shopping trips more productive, without losing all the spontaneity and fun:

1. With our list of “must-haves” in mind, take inventory of your closet (refer to the earlier section “Wardrobe Essentials”).

When scanning your closet, make sure every item you keep is a 10 — meaning each of your staple items must be the right fabric, must fit you perfectly, and must look like you bought it at the start of the season (even if you didn’t).

2. Make a list of what you actually need in your wardrobe.

If you’re into gadgets, feel free to make this list electronically.

3. The next time you feel like just buying something, like so many of us do, buy something from the list.

That way, you still get the boost of a shopping pick-me-up and are productive at the same time, because in the process you got something you needed.

Having a wish-list of items that you want to save up for, hope for as a gift, or want in a less-expensive version is totally appropriate (and fun!). Some people have a folder of tear-outs from magazines of things they would kill for — and you never know when those items may go on sale. If you’re one of these people, you may not need a tangible list (when you see it you’ll know it), but it’s good to have these items stored in the back of your head for those “you never know” times!

Spur-of-the-moment shopping without busting the bank

Now I know what you’re thinking: You have a big party Saturday night, and you really want to buy something new to wear. Trust me, I get it! Before you run out and impulsively buy an expensive new dress, try this: Go into your closet and pick out the dress that already fits you perfectly and hugs you in all the right places. Then hit the stores with that dress in mind and look for a statement necklace or a pair of beautiful chandelier earrings to spice it up. Going in with this approach lets you add another dimension to your ward- robe, because not only will you have a knockout necklace for your big party, but next week, you can wear that same piece of jewelry with jeans and a white T-shirt! Often, you’ll find that just buying something new gives you that natural high.

You can also look at sales racks. Because something is on sale doesn’t mean it’s of poor quality. Great pieces that don’t move in a certain amount of time are forced onto the sales rack to make space for new inventory. When you scan the sales rack, keep the basics on your mind. That perfect pencil skirt is often waiting right there. The sales rack is also good for those impulse pur- chases. If you see a trendy item that you want but know won’t last through the season, buy it on sale.

Electronic aids

Use electronic devices — digital cameras or phones with cameras, for example — to help avoid buying something you’ll regret or don’t need:

✓ Take a picture of a top or skirt in your closet that you’re looking to match. This way when you are in the mall, you can refer to the picture while on your hunt.

✓ Need a second opinion? Camera phones can help. It’s always a good idea to e-mail a friend who is honest if you are teetering on buying that perfect outfit (especially if it’s not refundable!).

Many stores don’t allow you to take photos of yourself in their clothing, but some don’t make a fuss. Many high-end stores (especially boutiques) enforce this rule because they don’t want people taking pictures of their items and then copying their designs. So if you try to take a picture and the salesperson tells you they don’t allow it, just apologize and put your camera away. If the salesperson doesn’t mind and thinks you’re a serious buyer who’s just getting reinforcement from a trusted friend, she may even take the picture!